{"id":332224,"date":"2025-12-17T12:29:59","date_gmt":"2025-12-17T11:29:59","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=332224"},"modified":"2025-12-17T12:29:59","modified_gmt":"2025-12-17T11:29:59","slug":"stara-sumava-a-posumavi-vanocni-houbovy-kuba","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=332224","title":{"rendered":"STAR\u00c1 \u0160UMAVA A PO\u0160UMAV\u00cd: V\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed houbov\u00fd kuba"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Chcete vid\u011bt na \u0160t\u011bdr\u00fd den zlat\u00e9 pras\u00e1tko, ale p\u0159edstava celodenn\u00edho hladov\u011bn\u00ed v\u00e1s up\u0159\u00edmn\u011b d\u011bs\u00ed? Sta\u010d\u00ed kdy\u017e vynech\u00e1te maso a d\u00e1te si k ob\u011bdu n\u011bco leh\u010d\u00edho. Tradi\u010dn\u00edm pokrmem na \u0161t\u011bdrodenn\u00ed ob\u011bd je ji\u017e t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 od prad\u00e1vna pr\u00e1v\u011b houbov\u00fd kuba, zn\u00e1m\u00fd t\u00e9\u017e jako \u010dern\u00fd kuba.<\/h6>\n

Jak vznikl n\u00e1zev houbov\u00fd kuba? Ve skute\u010dnosti je to podle lidov\u00e9ho n\u00e1zvu houby, kter\u00e1 se p\u016fvodn\u011b do pokrmu p\u0159id\u00e1vala. Jmenuje se stro\u010dek trubcovit\u00fd, lidov\u011b se mu \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 \u201eKuba\u201c, \u201eKub\u00ed\u010dek\u201c. Jde o houbu tmav\u00e9ho zabarven\u00ed, n\u00e1levkovit\u00e9ho tvaru se zahnut\u00fdmi okraji. Roste od srpna do listopadu, nejv\u00edc se mu da\u0159\u00ed v listnat\u00fdch les\u00edch pod buky. Zaj\u00edmav\u00fd je jeho n\u011bmeck\u00fd n\u00e1zev, a to Totentrompete, co\u017e znamen\u00e1 trubka mrtv\u00fdch.<\/p>\n

Dnes tuto chutnou, ale m\u00e1lo zn\u00e1mou a sb\u00edranou houbu nahrazuj\u00ed zn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00ed houby jako t\u0159eba h\u0159iby. Dal\u0161\u00ed d\u016fle\u017eitou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed tradi\u010dn\u00edho receptu na houbov\u00e9ho kubu jsou kroupy z je\u010dmene. Je\u010dmen pat\u0159\u00ed mezi nejstar\u0161\u00ed zem\u011bd\u011blsk\u00e9 plodiny – vyskytuje se ji\u017e v \u010d\u00ednsk\u00e9 a indick\u00e9 mytologii. Je tak\u00e9 \u010dtvrtou nejroz\u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u011bj\u0161\u00ed plodinou na sv\u011bt\u011b, kter\u00e1 je bohat\u00fdm zdrojem miner\u00e1ln\u00edch l\u00e1tek a dod\u00e1v\u00e1 t\u011blu energii, s\u00edlu a odolnost. Ne nadarmo b\u00fdval je\u010dmen ka\u017edodenn\u00ed slo\u017ekou j\u00eddeln\u00ed\u010dku antick\u00fdch gladi\u00e1tor\u016f.<\/p>\n

Ve spoust\u011b rodin zavon\u00ed na \u0160t\u011bdr\u00fd den. Houbov\u00fd kuba je jedno z m\u00e1la staro\u010desk\u00fdch j\u00eddel, kter\u00e9 v na\u0161ich j\u00eddeln\u00ed\u010dc\u00edch z\u016fstalo a\u017e dodnes, a to tak\u0159ka beze zm\u011bny. \u0158\u00edkalo se, \u017ee kdy\u017e se budeme postit, uvid\u00edme ve\u010der zlat\u00e9 pras\u00e1tko. \u0160umava byl chud\u00fd kraj a o mase, kaprovi \u010di sal\u00e1tu si mohli tamn\u00ed obyvatel\u00e9 jenom nechat sn\u00edt. \u010cesk\u00e9 V\u00e1noce jsou spjat\u00e9 s tradi\u010dn\u00ed houbovou pochoutkou. Odkud poch\u00e1z\u00ed a jak se p\u0159ipravovala?
\nZat\u00edmco dnes si v\u011bt\u0161ina rodin pochutn\u00e1v\u00e1 na \u0160t\u011bdr\u00fd den na cukrov\u00ed, n\u00e1sledovan\u00e9m sma\u017een\u00fdm kaprem s bramborov\u00fdm sal\u00e1tem, d\u0159\u00edve se na stolech prost\u00fdch lid\u00ed objevoval houbov\u00fd kuba. Sta\u010dilo p\u00e1r z\u00e1kladn\u00edch ingredienc\u00ed a slavnostn\u00ed pochoutka byla na stole. Na povrchu kr\u00e1sn\u011b k\u0159upav\u00fd, uvnit\u0159 par\u00e1dn\u011b kr\u00e9mov\u00fd a cel\u00fd von\u00edc\u00ed po su\u0161en\u00fdch houb\u00e1ch, \u010desneku a major\u00e1nce.<\/p>\n

K p\u0159\u00edprav\u011b tradi\u010dn\u00ed \u0161t\u011bdrove\u010dern\u00ed dobroty jsou t\u0159eba kroupy, houby, cibule, \u010desnek a s\u00e1dlo. P\u0159\u00edprava je snadn\u00e1 a j\u00eddlo je v r\u016fzn\u00fdch kraj\u00edch obl\u00edben\u00e9 u\u017e stovky let. Va\u0159en\u00e9 kroupy, du\u0161en\u00e9 houby, to v\u0161e provon\u011bn\u00e9 s\u00e1dlem a spole\u010dn\u011b zape\u010den\u00e9. Dnes toto menu nab\u00edz\u00ed mnoho dobov\u00fdch restaurac\u00ed. Jeho tradice ale sah\u00e1 a\u017e k pohan\u016fm. Ti houbami \u010dasto nahrazovali maso, kter\u00e9ho byl nedostatek. A jak b\u011b\u017e\u00ed \u010das, upravuje se i recept. Chv\u00edli se Kuba p\u0159ipravuje z krup, chv\u00edli z j\u00e1hel. Zkr\u00e1tka z toho, \u010deho je v kraji dostatek.<\/p>\n

Traduje se, \u017ee toho nejlep\u0161\u00edho kubu ochutn\u00e1te v ji\u017en\u00edch \u010cech\u00e1ch. A d\u016fvod? Kubovi se taky \u010d\u00e1st \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 \u010cern\u00fd Kuba a to d\u00edky speci\u00e1ln\u00ed houb\u011b. Jmenuje se stro\u010dek trubkovit\u00fd a roste hlavn\u011b v listnat\u00fdch les\u00edch. A pr\u00e1v\u011b na jihu \u010cech jich je po\u017eehnan\u011b. V n\u011bkter\u00fdch kraj\u00edch se toto j\u00eddlo pod\u00e1v\u00e1 o \u0160t\u011bdr\u00e9m ve\u010deru. Tradice prav\u00ed, \u017ee do ve\u010dera se nesm\u00ed j\u00edst maso. Kdo chce, m\u016f\u017ee tedy bojovat s hladem, aby vid\u011bl zlat\u00e9 pras\u00e1tko, ale ti u\u017e moc hladov\u00ed houbov\u00fdm kubou jist\u011b nepohrdnou.<\/p>\n

A pro\u010d vlastn\u011b byly houby v minul\u00fdch stolet\u00edch tolik obl\u00edben\u00fdm a vyu\u017e\u00edvan\u00fdm pokrmem? Kraje su\u017eovaly v\u00e1lky a plen\u011bn\u00ed nep\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00fdch vojsk. M\u00edstn\u00ed hledali \u00fakryt v hlubok\u00fdch les\u00edch. Ale co tady j\u00edst? Co jin\u00e9ho, ne\u017e plody p\u0159\u00edrody. Houby nasyt\u00ed a daj\u00ed se p\u0159ipravit na mnoho zp\u016fsob\u016f. Mnoz\u00ed kr\u00e1lov\u00e9 dokonce po\u017eadovali z ka\u017ed\u00e9ho ko\u0161\u00edku nasb\u00edran\u00fdch hub \u010d\u00e1st pro z\u00e1meckou kuchyni. Jestli z nich ale taky p\u0159ipravovali houbov\u00e9ho kubu, to nikdo nev\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Dva rozd\u00edly v ingredienc\u00edch d\u011bl\u00edc\u00ed spole\u010dnost na chud\u00e9 a panstvo popisoval pra\u017esk\u00fd novin\u00e1\u0159 a fejetonista Flori\u00e1n Kudrnka. Byl to \u010dlov\u011bk osv\u00edcen\u00fd, jinak by v roce 1906 nemohl napsat pojedn\u00e1n\u00ed o tom: Jak m\u00e1 \u017eena va\u0159it, aby mu\u017e byl spokojen. Zahr\u00e1l sice na mu\u017eskou strunu, ale nechal n\u00e1m alespo\u0148 cenn\u00e9 informace, jak to bylo s va\u0159en\u00edm kuby v Praze na p\u0159elomu p\u0159edminul\u00e9ho a minul\u00e9ho stolet\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Jak vidno, i jednoduch\u00fd pokrm st\u00e1l za zm\u00ednku mnoh\u00fdm kucha\u0159sk\u00fdm celebrit\u00e1m stolet\u00ed d\u00e1vno minul\u00fdch. S v\u00e1\u017enou tv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed psala pan\u00ed Magdalena Dobromila Rettigov\u00e1 i Marie Jank\u016f-Sandtnerov\u00e1, \u017ee pokud nen\u00ed k m\u00e1n\u00ed hus\u00ed krev, obejde se kuba i bez n\u00ed, pokud nen\u00ed ani \u0161\u0165avnat\u00e9 vep\u0159ov\u00e9, ani potud se a\u017e tak moc ned\u011bje.
\nIhned je p\u0159isp\u011bch\u00e1no pra\u017esk\u00e9mu zoufal\u00e9mu panstvu na pomoc radou nad zlato, kterou si dovol\u00edm citovat: \u201eKdo nep\u0159id\u00e1 vep\u0159ov\u00e9 maso, ani hus\u00ed krev, pod\u00e1v\u00e1 kubu na st\u016fl t\u00edm zp\u016fsobem, \u017ee doprost\u0159ed m\u00edsy srovn\u00e1 na kosti\u010dky drobn\u011b nasekanou va\u0159enou, by\u0165 i studenou \u0161unku a tuto pak kol do kola v\u011bncovit\u011b kubou a prou\u017eky z tlust\u00e9ho od \u0161unky okr\u00e1\u0161l\u00ed.\u201c No vida, rada nad zlato.<\/p>\n

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Zdroj:<\/strong> P\u00e1r tip\u016f na v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed vegetari\u00e1nsk\u00e1 j\u00eddla. \u010cesk\u00e1 vegetari\u00e1nsk\u00e1 spole\u010dnost, 2006100+1 historie SPECI\u00c1L, Czech Specials – Kate\u0159ina H\u00f6ferov\u00e1<\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

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