{"id":267932,"date":"2026-01-13T19:37:10","date_gmt":"2026-01-13T18:37:10","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=267932"},"modified":"2026-01-13T19:37:10","modified_gmt":"2026-01-13T18:37:10","slug":"stara-sumava-a-posumavi-kysane-zeli-vselek-nasich-predku","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=267932","title":{"rendered":"STAR\u00c1 \u0160UMAVA A PO\u0160UMAV\u00cd: Kysan\u00e9 zel\u00ed, v\u0161el\u00e9k na\u0161ich p\u0159edk\u016f"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Magdalena Dobromila Rettigov\u00e1 o zel\u00ed s trochou nads\u00e1zky prohl\u00e1sila: B\u016fh v\u011bd\u011bl, \u017ee jsme dob\u0159\u00ed, a tak n\u00e1m na zem seslal zel\u00ed. A mnoh\u00e9 to jist\u011b spasilo\u2026<\/em><\/h6>\n

Takov\u00e1 byteln\u00e1 zelnice vyd\u00e1 klidn\u011b za hlavn\u00ed j\u00eddlo. Zimn\u00ed menu, to m\u00e1 b\u00fdt j\u00eddlo, kter\u00e9 zah\u0159eje. A p\u0159ipraven\u00e9 z potravin, kter\u00e9 se na podzim sklidily a zpracovaly, jako t\u0159eba pr\u00e1v\u011b zel\u00ed. Takhle vydatn\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka, kter\u00e1 v\u00e1s opravdu zah\u0159eje na du\u0161i i zasyt\u00ed, vyd\u00e1 i za hlavn\u00ed j\u00eddlo. Nad p\u0159\u00edpravou zelnice nemus\u00edme moc p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161let. V\u011bt\u0161inu pot\u0159ebn\u00fdch surovin obvykle m\u00e1me doma. N\u00e1zev napov\u00edd\u00e1, \u017ee je typick\u00e1 pro oblast \u0160umavy a \u017ee si na n\u00ed pochutn\u00e1vali u\u017e na\u0161i p\u0159edkov\u00e9.<\/p>\n

Kysan\u00e9 zel\u00ed je jednou z nejstar\u0161\u00edch trvanliv\u00fdch potravin. Znaly jej ji\u017e antick\u00e9 \u0158ecko i \u0158\u00edm, rovn\u011b\u017e je zmi\u0148ov\u00e1no ve starov\u011bk\u00e9 \u010c\u00edn\u011b, kde bylo ji\u017e dokonce ve 3.tis. p\u0159.n.l. sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed odm\u011bny d\u011bln\u00edk\u016fm, kte\u0159\u00ed stav\u011bli Velkou \u010d\u00ednskou ze\u010f. Dne\u0161n\u00ed zp\u016fsob v\u00fdroby kysan\u00e9ho zel\u00ed \u00fadajn\u011b p\u0159evzali ve st\u0159edov\u011bku Slovan\u00e9 od Tatar\u016f a p\u0159ed\u00e1vali jej pak d\u00e1le sv\u00fdm z\u00e1padoevropsk\u00fdm soused\u016fm. Ve st\u0159edov\u011bku bylo roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00e9 u\u017e i d\u00e1le po Evrop\u011b. V 19. stolet\u00ed ozna\u010dil n\u011bmeck\u00fd kn\u011bz a l\u00e9\u010ditel Sebastian Kneipp kysan\u00e9 zel\u00ed za \u201cv\u00fdbornou metlu na pro\u010di\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed st\u0159ev\u201c. St\u0159edov\u011bc\u00ed l\u00e9ka\u0159i ov\u0161em nebyli z nadm\u011brn\u00e9 konzumace zel\u00ed p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 nad\u0161eni. Domn\u00edvali se, \u017ee dr\u00e1\u017ed\u00ed \u017ealudek a vyvol\u00e1v\u00e1 zl\u00e9 sny. Jeden italsk\u00fd l\u00e9ka\u0159 dokonce ve t\u0159in\u00e1ct\u00e9m stolet\u00ed napsal, \u017ee “zel\u00ed je neblahou potravou, proto\u017ee zp\u016fsobuje \u0161patnou krev”.<\/p>\n

\u0160umavsk\u00e9 hospodyn\u011b um\u011bly vyu\u017e\u00edt zel\u00ed hned n\u011bkolikr\u00e1t. U\u017e p\u0159i kva\u0161en\u00ed z n\u011bj odeb\u00edraly lahodnou \u0161\u0165\u00e1vu, l\u00e1k, z n\u00ed\u017e se va\u0159ila pol\u00e9vka. Ta se pila i chladn\u00e1 p\u0159i hore\u010dce, sva\u0159en\u00e1 pak zklid\u0148ovala ka\u0161el. Studen\u00e9 kva\u0161en\u00e9 zel\u00ed se tak\u00e9 d\u00e1valo do obklad\u016f p\u0159i bolen\u00ed hlavy. Kysel\u00e9 zel\u00ed nechyb\u011blo v \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 dom\u00e1cnosti na\u0161ich p\u0159edk\u016f a jeho moci vyu\u017e\u00edvali obzvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 v zim\u011b.<\/p>\n

Strava v lidov\u00e9m prost\u0159ed\u00ed neslou\u017eila pouze jako prost\u0159edek k zahn\u00e1n\u00ed hladu, ale byla ch\u00e1p\u00e1na jako Bo\u017e\u00ed dar a tak se s n\u00ed i zach\u00e1zelo. Ve v\u011b\u0159\u00edc\u00edch rodin\u00e1ch p\u0159edch\u00e1zela j\u00eddlu modlitba a pod\u011bkov\u00e1n\u00ed. Houby, brambory, zel\u00ed \u2013 to jsou z\u00e1kladn\u00ed kameny \u0161umavsk\u00e9 kuchyn\u011b. Ta je jednoduch\u00e1 a \u00fasporn\u00e1 a ovlivnily ji nejen sousedn\u00ed \u010cechy, ale i rakousk\u00e1 a n\u011bmeck\u00e1 kuchyn\u011b. Na\u0161i p\u0159edkov\u00e9 sice nedok\u00e1zali pojmenovat v\u0161echny v n\u011bm obsa\u017een\u00e9 prosp\u011b\u0161n\u00e9 l\u00e1tky, ale na zel\u00ed si pochutn\u00e1vali pravideln\u011b \u2013 ostatn\u011b koncem zimy v chalup\u011b u\u017e \u010dasto nic moc jin\u00e9ho k j\u00eddlu neb\u00fdvalo a soudky nebo keramick\u00e9 n\u00e1doby pln\u00e9 nakrouhan\u00e9 kysan\u00e9 zeleniny p\u0159edstavovaly hotov\u00fd poklad.<\/p>\n

V kopcovit\u00e9 krajin\u011b s rozeset\u00fdmi chalupami, kter\u00e9 se v podzimn\u00edch r\u00e1nech pomalu dost\u00e1vaj\u00ed z opar\u016f mlhy a pozd\u011bji na dlouh\u00e9 m\u011bs\u00edce zapadaj\u00ed sn\u011bhem, si ve v\u00fdb\u011bru surovin nemohli vyskakovat. Pol\u00e9vky m\u011bly v j\u00eddeln\u00ed\u010dku \u0161umavsk\u00e9ho lidu v\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed m\u00edsto ne\u017e v sou\u010dasnosti. Byly samostatn\u00fdm a jedin\u00fdm j\u00eddlem na sn\u00eddani a \u010dasto tak\u00e9 na ob\u011bd a na ve\u010de\u0159i. Proto se v\u00edce cenily pol\u00e9vky hust\u00e9 a vydatn\u00e9. \u0158\u00eddk\u00e9 vodov\u00e9 pol\u00e9vky byly tak\u00e9 zn\u00e1my, v\u00edce se v\u0161ak va\u0159ily a\u017e od konce 19. stolet\u00ed jako j\u00eddlo m\u011bstsk\u00e9 chudiny. Mouka byla vz\u00e1cn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, zat\u00edmco brambor\u00e1m se v na\u0161em podhorsk\u00e9m a horsk\u00e9m kraji da\u0159ilo dob\u0159e a byly nejsn\u00e1ze p\u0159\u00edstupn\u00e9 i pro ty nejchud\u0161\u00ed.<\/p>\n

J\u00eddeln\u00ed\u010dek byl po v\u011bt\u0161inu roku jednoduch\u00fd, st\u00e1l\u00fd. Dbalo se hlavn\u011b na to, aby j\u00eddlo zasytilo. Jedlo se v\u011bt\u0161inou t\u0159ikr\u00e1t denn\u011b. Je\u0161t\u011b na p\u0159elomu 19. a 20. stolet\u00ed byly ke sn\u00eddani b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 pol\u00e9vky. \u010casto to byla zelnice, to je pol\u00e9vka z kysel\u00e9ho zel\u00ed a k n\u00ed v\u011bt\u0161inou brambory na loupa\u010dku nebo nebo tzv. nakysl\u00e1 b\u00edl\u00e1, to je ml\u00e9\u010dn\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka, kterou se zalil na tal\u00ed\u0159i nakr\u00e1jen\u00fd chleba \u010di je\u0161t\u011b zahu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e1 smetanou. J\u00eddlo chud\u00fdch, kysel\u00e9 zel\u00ed. M\u00e1 v sob\u011b cosi historicky \u00factyhodn\u00e9ho, zvl\u00e1\u0161\u0165 kdy\u017e se jedine\u010dn\u00e1 v\u016fn\u011b kva\u0161en\u00e9 zeleniny, ochucen\u00e9 km\u00ednem, cibul\u00ed, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b bobkov\u00fdm listem \u010di jinak, vyhrne na zte\u010d lidsk\u00e9ho nosu p\u0159\u00edmo z be\u010dky, sudu nebo d\u017eberu.<\/p>\n

V obdob\u00ed p\u016fstu se m\u00edsto n\u00ed leckde jedlo jen syrov\u00e9 kysan\u00e9 zel\u00ed. D\u00e1l n\u00e1sledovalo zel\u00ed k ob\u011bdu a t\u0159eba i k ve\u010de\u0159i, proto\u017ee z n\u011bkolika m\u00e1lo dostupn\u00fdch surovin se musela sestavit plnohodnotn\u00e1 strava na cel\u00fd den, t\u00fdden, m\u011bs\u00edc i rok, se v\u0161emi jeho sv\u00e1te\u010dn\u00edmi a postn\u00edmi v\u00fdkyvy. Nakolik bylo zel\u00ed pro chudou lidovou stravu d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9, o to v\u00edc opom\u00edjen\u00e9 a\u017e opovrhovan\u00e9 bylo v bohat\u00fdch dom\u00e1cnostech. Pansk\u00e9 a m\u011b\u0161\u0165ansk\u00e9 kuchyn\u011b o kysel\u00e9m zel\u00ed taktn\u011b ml\u010d\u00ed. Skoro jako by neexistovalo.<\/p>\n

Nechte se nal\u00e1kat na pokrmy, kter\u00e9 znaly ji\u017e na\u0161e babi\u010dky a uva\u0159te si t\u0159eba \u0161umavskou zelnici ze Stach\u016f. Sv\u011btl\u00e1 pol\u00e9vka typick\u00e9 v\u016fn\u011b a chuti po zel\u00ed, brambor\u00e1ch, uzen\u00e9m mase. P\u0159esto\u017ee jde o pol\u00e9vku, ve skute\u010dnosti k n\u00ed u\u017e nemus\u00edte d\u011blat \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e9 hlavn\u00ed j\u00eddlo maxim\u00e1ln\u011b k n\u00ed m\u016f\u017eete p\u0159idat tak kraj\u00edc chleba. U n\u00e1s doma ji v\u0161ak j\u00edme i samotnou, je to ta opravdick\u00e1 \u0161umavsk\u00e1 zelnice:
\nAsi kilo kysel\u00e9ho zel\u00ed propereme, p\u0159ekr\u00e1j\u00edme a pova\u0159\u00edme s km\u00ednem a sol\u00ed. Oloupan\u00e9 brambory, tak kilo, nakr\u00e1j\u00edme na mali\u010dk\u00e9 kousky a va\u0159\u00edme \u00fapln\u011b do m\u011bkka. Vodu nesl\u00e9v\u00e1me a v\u0161e rozmixujeme na \u0159\u00eddkou ka\u0161i. Na s\u00e1dle kr\u00e1tce osmahneme nadrobno nakr\u00e1jenou cibuli, p\u0159id\u00e1me na mal\u00e9 kousky nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9ho uzen\u00e9ho masa, \u010d\u00edm v\u00edce, t\u00edm l\u00e9pe. Za st\u00e1l\u00e9ho m\u00edch\u00e1n\u00ed ope\u010deme do kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 zlatav\u00e9 barvy. Pak v\u0161e sm\u00edch\u00e1me, mus\u00ed b\u00fdt hust\u00e1, aby v n\u00ed l\u017e\u00edce st\u00e1la a dochut\u00edme podle vlastn\u00ed chuti.<\/em><\/p>\n

V dom\u00e1cnostech, kde nebyla o kysel\u00e9 zel\u00ed nouze, ho hospody\u0148ky pou\u017e\u00edvaly k \u010dist\u011bn\u00ed vln\u011bn\u00fdch koberc\u016f. Zel\u00ed rozh\u00e1zely po koberci a pak r\u00fd\u017eov\u00fdm ko\u0161t\u011btem vymetaly. Prou\u017eky vlhk\u00e9ho zel\u00ed na sebe dob\u0159e nabalily prach, l\u00e1tky obsa\u017een\u00e9 v kysel\u00e9m zel\u00ed o\u017eivily barvy. Jen pak bylo t\u0159eba m\u00edstnost dob\u0159e vyv\u011btrat.<\/p>\n

V knize \u010cesk\u00e1 strava lidov\u00e1, vydan\u00e9 v roce 1945, se mj. p\u00ed\u0161e: \u201eV chud\u0161\u00edch kraj\u00edch postavila se m\u00edsa pln\u00e1 zel\u00ed doprost\u0159ed stolu a k zel\u00ed se daly brambory nebo kraj\u00edce chleba.” Stejn\u00e9 zvyky podle r\u016fzn\u00fdch pramen\u016f panovaly v\u0161ude a zel\u00ed je na\u0161\u00ed hlavn\u00ed a n\u00e1rodn\u00ed pochoutkou. Zel\u00ed b\u00edl\u00e9 i \u010derven\u00e9, \u010derstv\u00e9 i nalo\u017een\u00e9. A zel\u00ed pr\u00e1v\u011b proto, \u017ee se mu da\u0159\u00ed v\u0161ude, i v hor\u0161\u00edch podm\u00ednk\u00e1ch, je levn\u00e9 a dostupn\u00e9 cel\u00fd rok.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

  Magdalena <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":366353,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"gallery","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[111],"tags":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2026\/01\/13\/ram-kysane-zeli.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/267932"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=267932"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/267932\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":366354,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/267932\/revisions\/366354"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/366353"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=267932"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=267932"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=267932"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}