{"id":247390,"date":"2025-01-18T19:16:25","date_gmt":"2025-01-18T18:16:25","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=247390"},"modified":"2025-01-18T19:16:25","modified_gmt":"2025-01-18T18:16:25","slug":"z-archivu-a-kronik-o-camrdach-a-camrdarich","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=247390","title":{"rendered":"Z ARCHIV\u016e A KRONIK: O \u010damrd\u00e1ch a \u010damrd\u00e1\u0159\u00edch"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Pro \u0159emeslo je charakteristick\u00fd dokonal\u00fd rukod\u011bln\u00fd projev. Vlastn\u00ed prac\u00ed, podle sv\u00fdch mo\u017enost\u00ed, dovednost\u00ed, pl\u00e1n\u016f a z\u00e1m\u011br\u016f, p\u0159etv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed \u010dlov\u011bk okoln\u00ed p\u0159\u00edrodu a prost\u0159ed\u00ed, v n\u011bm\u017e \u017eije. Sv\u011bt na\u0161ich p\u0159edk\u016f zna\u010dn\u011b z\u00e1visel na p\u0159\u00edrod\u011b a lid\u00e9 se k n\u00ed chovali mnohem ohledupln\u011bji, ne\u017e dnes, kdy m\u00e1me jin\u00e9 n\u00e1roky a z\u00e1jmy, jin\u00fd \u017eivotn\u00ed styl. Ale st\u00e1le obdivujeme dokonalost a funk\u010dnost p\u0159edm\u011bt\u016f, vyroben\u00fdch d\u0159\u00edv\u011bj\u0161\u00edmi \u0159emesln\u00edky i d\u011bdictv\u00ed v podob\u011b mnoha pam\u00e1tek.<\/h6>\n

\u010clov\u011bk musel objevit pou\u017eitelnost r\u016fzn\u00fdch materi\u00e1l\u016f, poznat jejich vlastnosti a nau\u010dit se je vyu\u017e\u00edvat tak, aby mu slou\u017eily. Nap\u0159ed od dom\u00e1c\u00ed pr\u00e1ce pro vlastn\u00ed pot\u0159ebu, a\u017e po v\u00fdrobu pro ostatn\u00ed z\u00e1jemce na prodej.\u0158emesln\u00edk v\u011bd\u011bl o sv\u00e9m v\u00fdrobku doslova v\u0161echno, od materi\u00e1lu a zp\u016fsobu zpracov\u00e1n\u00ed, k \u010demu ho pou\u017e\u00edt, i pro koho je ur\u010den. Do sv\u00e9 pr\u00e1ce vkl\u00e1dal tv\u016fr\u010d\u00ed schopnosti i cit a dokonale spojoval \u00fa\u010del a tvar v\u00fdrobku. Sv\u00e9 zku\u0161enosti a dovednosti p\u0159ed\u00e1vali lid\u00e9 dal\u0161\u00edm generac\u00edm, kter\u00e9 v\u00fdrobky d\u00e1le zdokonalovaly.<\/p>\n

S rozvojem techniky n\u011bkter\u00e1 \u0159emesla postupn\u011b zanikla, u jin\u00fdch ru\u010dn\u00ed v\u00fdrobu nahradily stroje. P\u0159ipome\u0148me si n\u00e1zvy star\u00fdch \u0159emesel, z nich\u017e jsou n\u011bkter\u00e1 opravdu zapomenut\u00e1, ale u n\u011bkter\u00fdch byla rodinn\u00e1 tradice tak siln\u00e1 a dlouholet\u00e1, \u017ee se s nimi setk\u00e1v\u00e1me v podob\u011b p\u0159\u00edjmen\u00ed ani\u017e si to uv\u011bdomujeme. “V\u00edte, co je to \u010damrda a kdo to byl \u010damrd\u00e1\u0159? \u0158\u00edkalo se tak perle\u0165ov\u00fdm knofl\u00edk\u016fm a \u0159emesln\u00edk\u016fm, kte\u0159\u00ed je vyr\u00e1b\u011bli. Ano, oby\u010dejn\u00fd knofl\u00edk.<\/p>\n

P\u0159itom knofl\u00edk je tak d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fd, v\u017edy\u0165 d\u00edky n\u011bmu n\u00e1m nepadaj\u00ed kalhoty, v\u017edy\u0165 d\u00edky n\u011bmu n\u00e1m ko\u0161ile padne jako ulit\u00e1, d\u00edky n\u011bmu n\u00e1m nen\u00ed v zim\u011b zima, proto\u017ee spojuje kab\u00e1t v jeden celek, d\u00edky knofl\u00ed\u010dku na bl\u016fzce si hrajeme s mu\u017ei, d\u00edky knofl\u00edku, kter\u00fd n\u00e1m ul\u00e9tne pl\u00e1\u010deme nad na\u0161\u00ed v\u00e1hou … ach ten knofl\u00edk, nedocen\u011bn\u00fd sirotek pan\u00ed m\u00f3dy. To si jen \u010das pohr\u00e1v\u00e1 se vzpom\u00ednkami na plechovou krabici, v n\u00ed\u017e na\u0161e \u0161etrn\u00e9 babi\u010dky schov\u00e1valy knofl\u00edky. Nev\u00edm, k \u010demu se ta pestrobarevn\u00e1 sb\u00edrka hodila l\u00e9pe ne\u017e k d\u011btsk\u00fdm hr\u00e1m. Ale \u017ee to byly poklady!<\/p>\n

Knofl\u00edky velk\u00e9, mal\u00e9, s d\u00edrkami i ou\u0161ky, knofl\u00edky sklen\u011bn\u00e9 i kovov\u00e9. Ma\u010dkan\u00e9, malovan\u00e9 i voskovan\u00e9, k jejich\u017e v\u00fdrob\u011b se kdysi pou\u017e\u00edvalo \u0161upin mo\u0159sk\u00fdch ryb a vypadaly jako z prav\u00e9 perleti. Knofl\u00edky jetov\u00e9, p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed \u010dern\u00e9 krajkov\u00ed, nebo ty velk\u00e9, elegantn\u00ed v kombinaci \u010dern\u00e9ho skla, kovu, p\u0159ipom\u00ednaj\u00edc\u00ed trochu mamin\u010dinu bro\u017e do opery. Jemn\u011b tepan\u00e9 i porcel\u00e1nov\u00e9 s malovan\u00fdmi v\u00fdjevy past\u00fd\u0159ek \u010di myslivc\u016f. Knofl\u00edky v\u0161ech barev, tvar\u016f i velikost\u00ed. Dodnes nesou sv\u011bdectv\u00ed o d\u00e1vno zapomenut\u00fdch technologi\u00edch i m\u00f3dn\u00edch trendech minul\u00fdch dvou stolet\u00ed.<\/p>\n

V\u00fdroba u \u010damrd\u00e1\u0159\u016f prob\u00edhala podom\u00e1cku na \u0161lapac\u00edch stroj\u00edch, tzv. ponk\u016f i vrta\u010dek. Sami \u010damrd\u00e1\u0159i sb\u00edrali v okoln\u00edch potoc\u00edch a i v v po\u0161umavsk\u00fdch \u0159ek\u00e1ch r\u016fzn\u00e9 \u0161keble, lastury a ulity, nebo je i vykupovali. Pracovn\u00edk nohama \u0161lapal p\u0159evodov\u00e9 kolo a ze \u0161kebl\u00ed, kter\u00e9 dr\u017eel v rukou, vrtal knofl\u00edkov\u00e9 polotovary. Proto\u017ee se \u0161keble zah\u0159\u00edvala a hodn\u011b se pr\u00e1\u0161ilo, kapala na vrt\u00e1k a ruce pracovn\u00edka z \u201ekropma\u0161iny\u201c voda. K tomu krom \u010damrd\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9ho ponku pot\u0159eboval i speci\u00e1ln\u00ed n\u00e1\u0159ad\u00ed, kter\u00e9 si s\u00e1m vyr\u00e1b\u011bl, jako sek\u00e1\u010d, turch\u0161l\u00e1g pr\u016fbojn\u00edk, pouzdro a n\u016f\u017e upraven\u00fd z piln\u00edku.<\/p>\n

P\u016fra je vrt\u00e1\u010dek a f\u00edrka \u010di holcna je p\u0159\u00edpravek k vrt\u00e1n\u00ed d\u00edrek. P\u016frma\u0161ina je \u010d\u00e1st ponku kon\u00edk, pohybuj\u00edc\u00ed se do z\u00e1b\u011bru d\u00edky \u0161roubu zhotoven\u00e9mu kov\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem – navinut\u00edm \u017eelezn\u00e9 ty\u010de na kulatinu. Rondely se up\u00ednaly do d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00e9ho skl\u00ed\u010didla stahovan\u00e9ho rohovinov\u00fdm krou\u017ekem. Lasturu p\u0159i odvrt\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed d\u011bln\u00edk dr\u017eel v ruce, zbytk\u016fm se \u0159\u00edkalo obchol. Po velk\u00fdch knofl\u00edc\u00edch se z n\u011bj je\u0161t\u011b znovu odvrt\u00e1valy mal\u00e9 knofl\u00ed\u010dky. Doma na opracov\u00e1n\u00ed perleti pracovaly cel\u00e9 rodiny i s d\u011btmi, proto\u017ee tato pr\u00e1ce pom\u011brn\u011b dob\u0159e vyn\u00e1\u0161ela, a\u010d vy\u017eadovala zna\u010dn\u00e9 po\u010d\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed investice.<\/p>\n

Z\u00e1kladn\u00edm n\u00e1strojem v\u00fdroby byl d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fd soustruh s velk\u00fdm, t\u011b\u017ek\u00fdm kolem, kter\u00e9 mu\u017ei poh\u00e1n\u011bli \u0161lap\u00e1n\u00edm, byla to \u00famorn\u00e1 pr\u00e1ce. Na soustruhu se p\u0159edem nam\u00e1\u010den\u00e1 perle\u0165 vrtala, potom brousila a to\u010dila. Knofl\u00edk\u016fm se tak dod\u00e1val tvar \u010di faz\u00f3na. Pak p\u0159i\u0161lo na \u0159adu d\u00edrkov\u00e1n\u00ed, kter\u00e9 se prov\u00e1d\u011blo na stroj\u00edch podobn\u00fdch \u0161ic\u00edm stroj\u016fm. Tuto pr\u00e1ci v rodin\u00e1ch vykon\u00e1valy \u017eeny, kter\u00e9 pak knofl\u00edky brousily, le\u0161tily a kone\u010dn\u011b na\u0161\u00edvaly na karty. Velk\u00e9 knofl\u00edky se na\u0161\u00edvaly na jednu kartu v po\u010dtu jednoho nebo dvou tuct\u016f. Mal\u00e9 \u010damrdy byly skl\u00e1d\u00e1ny po 12 tuctech. Jednotliv\u00e9 karty vytv\u00e1\u0159ely tzv. gross, jen\u017e obsahoval celkem 144 knofl\u00edk\u016f. Zat\u00edmco ve\u0161ker\u00fd postup p\u0159i v\u00fdrob\u011b perle\u0165ov\u00fdch knofl\u00edk\u016f byl t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 v\u00fdhradn\u011b mu\u017eskou z\u00e1le\u017eitost\u00ed (p\u0159esto v\u0161ak najdeme ve v\u00fdjime\u010dn\u00fdch p\u0159\u00edpadech \u017eeny, kter\u00e9 byly schopny prov\u00e1d\u011bt ve\u0161ker\u00e9 \u00fakony samy), bylo na\u0161\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed ryze \u017eenskou prac\u00ed, v rodin\u00e1ch se na na\u0161\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed mohly pod\u00edlet i d\u011bti.<\/p>\n

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Zdroj:<\/strong> MRA\u010cNO, Old\u0159\u00edch: O mal\u00e9m knofl\u00edku, kter\u00fd dobyl sv\u011bt. Jiskra 36, \u010d. 28, 8. 2. 1955, s. 2.ORL\u00cd\u010cEK, Zden\u011bk: O perleti a perle\u0165\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed. Um\u011bn\u00ed a \u0159emesla, 1961, \u010d. 4, s. 152-157<\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

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