{"id":247387,"date":"2025-01-14T19:12:58","date_gmt":"2025-01-14T18:12:58","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=247387"},"modified":"2025-01-14T19:12:58","modified_gmt":"2025-01-14T18:12:58","slug":"z-archivu-a-kronk-o-nitenych-knoflicich","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=247387","title":{"rendered":"Z ARCHIV\u016e A KRONK: O nit\u011bn\u00fdch knofl\u00edc\u00edch"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Tradi\u010dn\u00ed nit\u011bn\u00e9 knofl\u00edky nen\u00ed t\u0159eba dlouze p\u0159edstavovat, zn\u00e1me je jist\u011b ka\u017ed\u00fd jako ned\u00edlnou sou\u010d\u00e1st lo\u017en\u00edho povle\u010den\u00ed. Ano, oby\u010dejn\u00fd knofl\u00edk. P\u0159itom knofl\u00edk je tak d\u016fle\u017eit\u00fd, v\u017edy\u0165 d\u00edky n\u011bmu n\u00e1m nepadaj\u00ed kalhoty, v\u017edy\u0165 d\u00edky n\u011bmu n\u00e1m ko\u0161ile padne jako ulit\u00e1, d\u00edky n\u011bmu n\u00e1m nen\u00ed v zim\u011b zima, proto\u017ee spojuje kab\u00e1t v jeden celek, d\u00edky knofl\u00ed\u010dku na bl\u016fzce si hrajeme s mu\u017ei, d\u00edky knofl\u00edku, kter\u00fd n\u00e1m ul\u00e9tne pl\u00e1\u010deme nad na\u0161\u00ed v\u00e1hou … ach ten knofl\u00edk, nedocen\u011bn\u00fd sirotek.<\/h6>\n

Evangelick\u00e1 sestra Berty Boullaire z holandsk\u00e9 c\u00edrkevn\u00ed \u0161koly Wees&Weis z Zeistu v \u010cech\u00e1ch obdivovala obratn\u00e9 ruce \u017een u podu\u0161ky, je\u017e vytv\u00e1\u0159ely pali\u010dkovan\u00e9 krajky. Pr\u00e1v\u011b toto \u0159emeslo bylo nejm\u00e9n\u011b placen\u00e9. Cht\u011bla tyto krajky prodat p\u0159\u00e1tel\u016fm v N\u011bmecku, ale bratru Schmidtovi se to nezd\u00e1lo dost re\u00e1ln\u00e9, a tak p\u0159i\u0161la sestra s jin\u00fdm n\u00e1padem. Z podn\u011btu sestry Berty Boullaire pomohli z\u00e1stupci firmy Wees&Weis nau\u010dit m\u00edstn\u00ed tkalce a krajk\u00e1\u0159ky \u0161it\u00ed nit\u011bn\u00fdch knofl\u00edk\u016f a exportovat jejich roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159enou produkci. V roce 1874 se tento unik\u00e1tn\u00ed textiln\u00ed sortiment se v \u010cech\u00e1ch za\u010dal vyr\u00e1b\u011bt z\u00e1sluhou evangelick\u00e9ho kazatele bratra Eugena Schmidta, kter\u00fd vedle pastor\u00e1ln\u00edch slu\u017eeb projevil z\u00e1jem o obt\u00ed\u017en\u00e9 soci\u00e1ln\u00ed pom\u011bry drobn\u00fdch \u0159emesln\u00edk\u016f a d\u011bln\u00e9ho lidu. Tato c\u00edrkevn\u00ed organizace pot\u0159ebovala nov\u00e9 v\u00fdrobce nit\u011bn\u00fdch knofl\u00edk\u016f pro anglick\u00fd a z\u00e1mo\u0159sk\u00fd trh.<\/p>\n

V zim\u011b zhotovuj\u00ed m\u00edstn\u00ed lid\u00e9 podom\u00e1cku nit\u011bn\u00e9 knofl\u00edky. Z v\u00fdchovn\u00e9ho hlediska je nutno toto zam\u011bstn\u00e1n\u00ed ozna\u010dit za zavr\u017een\u00edhodn\u00e9, nebo\u0165 jsou k n\u011bmu p\u0159inucov\u00e1ny nedosp\u011bl\u00e9 d\u011bti, jejich\u017e prst\u00edky jsou pro ten \u00fa\u010del ov\u0161em nad jin\u00e9 obratn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed, zato se p\u0159itom st\u00e1vaj\u00ed u\u017e v \u00fatl\u00e9m v\u011bku kr\u00e1tkozrak\u00fdmi a d\u00fdchavi\u010dn\u00fdmi. M\u00edsto, aby se prob\u011bhly, od r\u00e1na do noci se hrbily nad prac\u00ed, nat\u00e1\u010dely nit\u011b na krou\u017eky a nit\u011bn\u00e9 knofl\u00edky pak je ob\u0161\u00edvaly. \u0160ily i ve \u0161kole pod lavic\u00ed, jen aby bylo na chleba a babky nit\u011bn\u00e9 knofl\u00edky nosily do sb\u011brny. Traduje se, \u017ee snad v\u00fdrobu zavedla Marie Terezie, aby \u201epomohla chud\u00fdm\u201c pr\u00e1v\u011b v on\u011bch podhorsk\u00fdch oblastech, ale to je jen \u00fastn\u00ed pod\u00e1n\u00ed. Knofl\u00edky se vyr\u00e1b\u011bly p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm v zim\u011b, podom\u00e1cku a touto \u010dinnost\u00ed se zab\u00fdvaly p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b \u017eeny.<\/p>\n

\u0160\u00edt nit\u011bn\u00fd knofl\u00edk byla t\u011b\u017ek\u00e1 a nam\u00e1hav\u00e1 pr\u00e1ce. Zhotovovaly se p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b v zimn\u00edch m\u011bs\u00edc\u00edch, proto\u017ee nebyla pr\u00e1ce na poli. Knofl\u00edky se \u0161ily bavlnou. \u0160i\u010dky si d\u011blaly r\u016fzn\u00e9 pom\u016fcky, nap\u0159\u00edklad v podob\u011b rysky na stole, kter\u00e1 slou\u017eila k odm\u011b\u0159en\u00ed d\u00e9lky nit\u011b na jednotliv\u00e9 velikosti knofl\u00edk\u016f. Dal\u0161\u00edm pomocn\u00edkem bylo jednoduch\u00e9 prk\u00e9nko, to m\u011blo na jedn\u00e9 stran\u011b h\u0159eb\u00ed\u010dek, kter\u00fd se podle velikosti knofl\u00edku posouval a t\u00edm ur\u010doval d\u00e9lku nit\u011b. Takto nam\u011b\u0159en\u00e1 nit se nav\u00edjela na kovov\u00fd krou\u017eek, n\u00e1sledn\u011b pro\u0161\u00edvala, posledn\u00ed f\u00e1z\u00ed \u0161it\u00ed bylo samotn\u00e9 ob\u0161\u00edv\u00e1n\u00ed krou\u017eku. Aby se nit z krou\u017eku nesmekala, daly krou\u017eek na plech, posypaly jemn\u011b rozdrcenou kalafunou a nechaly na plotn\u011b nebo v troub\u011b rozt\u00e9ct.T\u00edm se vytvo\u0159il na krou\u017eku povlak, kter\u00fd dr\u017eel nit.<\/p>\n

Krou\u017eky na knofl\u00edky se vyr\u00e1b\u011bly primitivn\u00edm zp\u016fsobem. Dr\u00e1t se sto\u010dil do spir\u00e1ly, ta se po d\u00e9lce roz\u0159\u00edzla a krou\u017eky se sletovaly. Knofl\u00edky se vyr\u00e1b\u011bly po dom\u00e1cku. V t\u00e9to dob\u011b se vyr\u00e1b\u011bly jen knofl\u00edky ru\u010dn\u011b \u0161it\u00e9, a to louko\u0165ov\u00fd a v\u011bne\u010dkov\u00fd knofl\u00edk. K velk\u00e9mu rozmachu v\u00fdroby do\u0161lo po 1. sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lce kolem roku 1929. V\u00fdrobanebyla jen ru\u010dn\u00ed, ale i strojov\u00e1.<\/p>\n

Mezi strojov\u00e9 knofl\u00edky pat\u0159ily dvoud\u00edrkov\u00e9, kter\u00e9 se skl\u00e1daly na ru\u010dn\u00edch lisech z plechov\u00e9ho t\u011bl\u00edska s lepenkovou vlo\u017ekou a byly obaleny pl\u00e1tnem. Dal\u0161\u00ed druh sokol se tak\u00e9 skl\u00e1dal na ru\u010dn\u00edm lisu z plechov\u00e9ho t\u011bl\u00edska, pap\u00edru a pl\u00e1tna. St\u0159ed byl vypln\u011bn vlo\u017ekou. Druh viktoria se vyr\u00e1b\u011bl na nat\u00e1\u010dec\u00edch stroj\u00edch.Krou\u017eek obto\u010den\u00fd nit\u00ed se jemn\u011b pro\u0161tepoval. V tomto obdob\u00ed se ji\u017e razil krou\u017eek lisem z pozinkovan\u00e9ho plechu v tabul\u00edch. Po 1. sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lce vznikl nov\u00fd druh knofl\u00edku orion. Byl to krou\u017eek obalen\u00fd pl\u00e1tnem, obto\u010den\u00fd slabou nit\u00ed a pro\u0161tepovan\u00fd po obvodu a\u017e ke st\u0159edu. Za 2. sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lky bylo u druhu orion nahrazeno pl\u00e1tno pap\u00edrem, pozd\u011bji se p\u0159ejmenoval na star.<\/p>\n

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Zdroj:<\/strong> Hatl\u00e1k. Vladim\u00edr. Dom\u00e1c\u00ed pr\u016fmysl na Morav\u011b. Revue Mor.-slezsk\u00e1. 1906, \u010d. 5 (duben), s. 158 – 161. Sir\u016f\u010dkov\u00e1, \u0160\u00e1rka. D\u011bjiny knofl\u00edku. Publikov\u00e1no v Art & Antiques : v\u00e1\u0161 pr\u016fvodce sv\u011btem um\u011bn\u00ed 1213-8398 ,Ro\u010d.6, \u010d.9 (2007) ,s.62-63 : 6 barev. obr.<\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora\u00a0<\/strong><\/p>\n

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