{"id":243023,"date":"2024-12-21T10:07:31","date_gmt":"2024-12-21T09:07:31","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=243023"},"modified":"2024-12-21T10:07:31","modified_gmt":"2024-12-21T09:07:31","slug":"stara-sumava-a-posumavi-o-vanocnim-cukrovi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=243023","title":{"rendered":"STAR\u00c1 \u0160UMAVA A PO\u0160UMAV\u00cd: O v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edm cukrov\u00ed"},"content":{"rendered":"

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V\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed p\u00edse\u0148<\/strong>
\nJak pt\u00e1ci zimom\u0159iv\u00ed v tom teskn\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhu,<\/em>
\nti, kter\u00e9 neu\u017eiv\u00ed t\u0159pyt hv\u011bzdic na sn\u011bhu,<\/em>
\nmy se\u0161li jsme se sn\u00edc\u00ed nad l\u017ei\u010dkou olova,<\/em>
\nk\u00e9\u017e by n\u00e1m mohlo \u0159\u00edci n\u00e1\u0161 osud doslova.<\/em>
\nKdy\u017e u\u017e se \u0159\u00edt\u00ed v sp\u011bchu ten \u017ealupln\u00fd d\u011bj,<\/em>
\nsv\u00ed\u010di\u010dko na o\u0159echu, ho\u0159 pro n\u00e1s pomalej,<\/em>
\na\u0165 zvu\u010d\u00ed trouby hl\u00e1sn\u00e9 i zp\u011bvy and\u011bl\u016f<\/em>
\nd\u0159\u00edv, ne\u017e p\u0159ijde smrt a zhasne<\/em>
\nn\u00e1\u0161 dech ve sv\u00e9m pocelu.<\/em>
\nA t\u011bm u sukn\u00ed matek dej \u00fasm\u011bv do o\u010dek,<\/em>
\nkl\u00edn pln\u00fd cukrl\u00e1tek a hodn\u011b v\u00e1no\u010dek,<\/em>
\nkdy\u017e u\u017e se \u0159\u00edt\u00ed v sp\u011bchu ten \u017ealupln\u00fd d\u011bj,<\/em>
\nsv\u00ed\u010di\u010dko na o\u0159echu, ho\u0159 pro n\u00e1s pomalej. ……<\/em>..Jaroslav Seifert (1901-1986)<\/strong><\/p>\n

\nTradice pe\u010den\u00ed cukrov\u00ed je s V\u00e1nocemi neodmysliteln\u011b spjata, stejn\u011b jako jeho magick\u00e1 v\u016fn\u011b, kter\u00e1 dok\u00e1\u017ee navodit tu pravou sv\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed atmosf\u00e9ru. Bez cukrov\u00ed si dnes V\u00e1noce dok\u00e1\u017eeme p\u0159edstavit jen velmi t\u011b\u017eko. Mezi jak\u00fdsi ochrann\u00fd pokrm pat\u0159ilo tak\u00e9 ob\u0159adn\u00ed pe\u010divo, p\u0159edch\u016fdce dne\u0161n\u00edho v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edho cukrov\u00ed. Toto pe\u010divo na\u0161i p\u0159edci zav\u011b\u0161ovali nad vchodem do st\u00e1je s dobytkem, na ovocn\u00e9 stromy a nad vchodem do domu. Cukrov\u00edm se tak\u00e9 obdarov\u00e1vali \u010deled\u00edni, d\u011bve\u010dky i \u010dlenov\u00e9 rodiny. Postupem \u010dasu se ochrann\u00e9 pe\u010divo stalo v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edm cukrov\u00edm.<\/h6>\n

Mo\u017en\u00e1 v\u00e1s p\u0159ekvap\u00ed, \u017ee historie cukrov\u00ed sah\u00e1 a\u017e k d\u00e1vn\u00fdm pohansk\u00fdm tradic\u00edm. V t\u00e9to dob\u011b ov\u0161em cukrov\u00ed neslou\u017eilo jako sladkost ke k\u00e1v\u011b \u010di \u010daji\u2026.Cukrov\u00ed se p\u0159ipravovalo k oslav\u00e1m nejsiln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed noci roku \u2013 tedy zimn\u00edho slunovratu. V tuto noc se p\u0159ipravovaly takzvan\u00e9 ob\u0159adn\u00ed pokrmy, kter\u00e9 m\u011bly slou\u017eit jako ochrana domu a rodiny p\u0159ed temn\u00fdmi silami. V\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed cukrov\u00ed m\u00e1 v na\u0161\u00ed zemi tradici. Kdy\u017e se za\u010dne hledat v se\u0161itech ty letit\u00e9 recepty na v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed cukrov\u00ed, podle kter\u00fdch pekla u\u017e babi\u010dka, je to znamen\u00ed, \u017ee V\u00e1noce u\u017e na sebe nenechaj\u00ed dlouho \u010dekat.<\/p>\n

Vzpom\u00edn\u00e1te na chv\u00edle, kdy va\u0161e maminka nebo babi\u010dka vyt\u00e1hly ze sk\u0159\u00edn\u011b vo\u0148av\u00fd, lehce u\u0161mudlan\u00fd se\u0161it? Tak pestr\u00fd v\u00fdb\u011br nenajdete snad nikde jinde na sv\u011bt\u011b a ka\u017ed\u00e1 rodina m\u00e1 ten sv\u016fj nejlep\u0161\u00ed, roky ov\u011b\u0159en\u00fd recept, kter\u00fd se d\u011bd\u00ed z generace na generaci. Sta\u010d\u00ed si vzpomenout na k\u0159ehk\u00e9 lineck\u00e9 cukrov\u00ed, vos\u00ed hn\u00edzda, nebo vanilkov\u00e9 rohl\u00ed\u010dky a \u010dlov\u011bk se vrac\u00ed do d\u011btstv\u00ed. P\u016fvodn\u00ed recepty, kter\u00e9 pekly nejen na\u0161e babi\u010dky, ale dokonce u\u017e na\u0161e prababi\u010dky byly jednoduch\u00e9, lacin\u00e9, a je\u0161t\u011b ke v\u0161emu hr\u00e1ly chut\u011bmi. Jist\u011b se v\u0161ichni shodneme na tom, \u017ee babi\u010dky v\u017edy pekly a va\u0159ily nejl\u00e9pe, a proto se mohla cel\u00e1 rodina po jej\u00edm cukrov\u00ed doslova utlouct. Samoz\u0159ejm\u011b v t\u00e9 dob\u011b neexistovaly nejr\u016fzn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed vymo\u017eenosti dne\u0161n\u00ed doby, na druhou stranu ale babi\u010dky nebraly ohled na \u0161t\u00edhlou linii a pou\u017e\u00edvaly na cukrov\u00ed plnohodnotn\u00e9 ingredience, kter\u00e9 pak na jazyku vykouzlily tu pravou v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed poh\u00e1dku. K mamin\u010din\u00fdm a babi\u010d\u010din\u00fdm recept\u016fm psan\u00fdch rukou st\u00e1le r\u00e1di vrac\u00edme. D\u00fdchne na n\u00e1s v\u017edy jejich v\u016fn\u011b, v\u016fn\u011b j\u00eddla a punt\u00edkat\u00e1 z\u00e1st\u011bra. Do pe\u010den\u00ed cukrov\u00ed d\u00e1vala v\u017edy kus sv\u00e9ho srdce a v\u0161e pro n\u00e1s p\u0159ipravovala s l\u00e1skou.<\/p>\n

Podle r\u016fzn\u00fdch pramen\u016f se cukrov\u00ed za\u010dalo p\u00e9ci ji\u017e v 16. stolet\u00ed. Tehdy ale m\u011blo zcela jinou podobu, ne\u017e na kterou jsme zvykl\u00ed dnes. Hlavn\u00ed ingredience p\u0159edstavovalo su\u0161en\u00e9 ovoce a med, z nich\u017e se tvarovaly zv\u00ed\u0159\u00e1tka, kola a kruhy a dal\u0161\u00ed tvary, kter\u00e9 m\u011bly pro na\u0161e p\u0159edky velk\u00fd v\u00fdznam. Je\u0161t\u011b d\u00e1vno p\u0159ed p\u0159\u00edchodem k\u0159es\u0165anstv\u00ed slavili d\u00e1vn\u00ed Keltov\u00e9 v obdob\u00ed dne\u0161n\u00edch V\u00e1noc zimn\u00ed slunovrat. Pr\u00e1v\u011b s n\u00edm m\u011blo souviset pe\u010den\u00ed cukrov\u00ed, kter\u00e9 se objevovalo jako sou\u010d\u00e1st oslav n\u00e1vratu slunce, kter\u00e9 d\u00e1valo \u017eivot. Aby zajistilo hojnost a \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed, m\u011blo b\u00fdt cukrov\u00ed pe\u010deno podle ur\u010dit\u00fdch z\u00e1sad.<\/p>\n

Cukrov\u00ed dnes pe\u010deme, proto\u017ee n\u00e1m chutn\u00e1, kr\u00e1sn\u011b von\u00ed a dotv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed jedine\u010dnou v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed atmosf\u00e9ru. V\u00e1noce by zkr\u00e1tka bez cukrov\u00ed nebyly V\u00e1nocemi, podobn\u011b jako bez strome\u010dku nebo d\u00e1rk\u016f, prskavek \u010di franti\u0161ka a v\u00e1no\u010dky. V d\u00e1vn\u00fdch dob\u00e1ch ale m\u011blo pro lidi daleko v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdznam \u2013 vztahovali k n\u011bmu toti\u017e sv\u00e9 nad\u011bje na lep\u0161\u00ed budoucnost plnou hojnosti a zdrav\u00ed. Aby byla zaji\u0161t\u011bna pr\u00e1v\u011b ona \u017e\u00e1dan\u00e1 hojnost, m\u011blo se cukrov\u00ed p\u00e9ci pouze z vlastn\u00ed mouky \u2013 to symbolizovalo budouc\u00ed bohatou \u00farodu. V\u011b\u0159ilo se, \u017ee hospody\u0148ka, kter\u00e1 jej sp\u00e1l\u00ed, bude m\u00edt v dal\u0161\u00edm roce sm\u016flu, \u017ee v\u00e1\u017en\u011b onemocn\u00ed nebo dokonce zem\u0159e. Podle tradice se v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed cukrov\u00ed nem\u00e1 p\u00e9ct p\u0159ed prvn\u00ed adventn\u00ed ned\u011bl\u00ed. Tak\u00e9 se podle tradice pe\u010de v\u011bt\u0161inou 7 druh\u016f cukrov\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Cukrov\u00ed tak, jak jej zn\u00e1me dnes, se za\u010dalo v na\u0161ich kon\u010din\u00e1ch p\u00e9ci kolem 19. stolet\u00ed. Mezi tradi\u010dn\u00ed suroviny pat\u0159ila mouka, med, vejce a m\u00e1slo a bohat\u0161\u00ed rodiny do t\u011bsta p\u0159id\u00e1valy i vz\u00e1cn\u00e9 ko\u0159en\u00ed. Chud\u0161\u00ed se \u010dasto naopak musely spokojit s t\u00edm, \u201eco d\u016fm dal\u201c, a tak se v jejich v\u00fdtvorech objevoval t\u0159eba i \u010desnek nebo pep\u0159. Pr\u00e1v\u011b ten d\u0159\u00edve tvo\u0159il jednu z hlavn\u00edch p\u0159\u00edsad do dnes st\u00e1le obl\u00edben\u00fdch, a typicky \u010desk\u00fdch, pern\u00ed\u010dk\u016f, kter\u00e9 \u00fadajn\u011b pr\u00e1v\u011b podle n\u011bj z\u00edskaly sv\u016fj n\u00e1zev. Cukrov\u00ed v podob\u011b, jakou zn\u00e1me dodnes, m\u016f\u017eeme v \u010desk\u00fdch zem\u00edch zaznamenat poprv\u00e9 z\u0159ejm\u011b n\u011bkdy v prvn\u00ed polovin\u011b 19. stolet\u00ed. Tehdy ale \u0161lo o zvyk, kter\u00fd se roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159il z n\u011bmeck\u00fdch zem\u00ed, ov\u0161em t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 v\u00fdhradn\u011b do majetn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch \u0161lechtick\u00fdch a m\u011b\u0161\u0165ansk\u00fdch rodin. T\u011bsto se z rukou ot\u00edralo o stromy a zbyl\u00e1 voda z t\u011bsta se lila do krmen\u00ed hov\u011bz\u00edho dobytka, aby nad\u00e1le dob\u0159e dojil. V podstat\u011b \u0161lo o \u010dajov\u00e9 pe\u010divo s n\u00e1zvy jako vanilkov\u00e9 hubinky, cv\u00edpochy s fenyklem \u010di \u0161panihelsk\u00e9 v\u011btry, co\u017e byly jak\u00e9si sn\u011bhov\u00e9 pusinky.<\/p>\n

Do t\u00e9to doby se tak\u00e9 datuj\u00ed prvn\u00ed vykrajov\u00e1tka a formi\u010dky, kter\u00e9 v obdobn\u00e9 podob\u011b zn\u00e1me dodnes. Chud\u0161\u00edm dom\u00e1cnostem ov\u0161em v pe\u010den\u00ed dlouho br\u00e1nil p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 drah\u00fd t\u0159tinov\u00fd cukr a toho levn\u011bj\u0161\u00edho \u0159epn\u00e9ho zase bylo m\u00e1lo, tak\u017ee byl vz\u00e1cnost\u00ed a\u017e do p\u0159elomu 19. a 20. stolet\u00ed. Skute\u010dn\u00fd boom p\u0159i\u0161el a\u017e mezi sv\u011btov\u00fdmi v\u00e1lkami. D\u00edvky, kter\u00e9 slou\u017eily v m\u011b\u0161\u0165ansk\u00fdch domech, na venkov p\u0159inesly r\u016fzn\u00e9 receptury. Tak\u00e9 n\u00e1padit\u011bj\u0161\u00ed tvary cukrov\u00ed za\u010daly vznikat a\u017e po prvn\u00ed sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lce. \u0160lo nejen o r\u016fzn\u00e1 \u010dasto exotick\u00e1 zv\u00ed\u0159ata, jak\u00fdmi jsou velbloudi, ale t\u0159eba tak\u00e9 o pon\u011bkud \u201enev\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed\u201c mumie.<\/p>\n

B\u011bhem 20. stolet\u00ed se pak \u010ce\u0161i vypracovali na celosv\u011btovou velmoc. Lineck\u00e9 cukrov\u00ed slepovan\u00e9 pikantn\u00edm d\u017eemem bezesporu pat\u0159\u00ed ke st\u00e1lic\u00edm \u010desk\u00fdch V\u00e1noc a na sv\u00e1te\u010dn\u00edm stole by ur\u010dit\u011b nem\u011blo chyb\u011bt. Lineck\u00e9mu cukrov\u00ed se doned\u00e1vna p\u0159isuzovala magick\u00e1 s\u00edla, proto\u017ee je pro n\u011bj charakteristick\u00e9 \u0161\u0165astn\u00e9 \u010d\u00edslo sedm. Do z\u00e1kladn\u00edho t\u011bsta toti\u017e pat\u0159\u00ed jedenkr\u00e1t sedm d\u00edl\u016f cukru, dvakr\u00e1t sedm d\u00edl\u016f m\u00e1sla a t\u0159ikr\u00e1t sedm d\u00edl\u016f mouky. A kdo sn\u00ed na \u0160t\u011bdr\u00fd den sedm kousk\u016f, bude m\u00edt \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed cel\u00fd rok! A proto\u017ee lid\u00e9 sedmi\u010dku lid\u00e9 odjak\u017eiva pova\u017euj\u00ed za nej\u0161\u0165astn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed \u010d\u00edslo, tak z\u00e1konit\u011b i lineck\u00e9 cukrov\u00ed p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161\u00ed lidem \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed. Sedmi\u010dka je prvn\u00ed z des\u00edtky jedin\u00e1, kter\u00e1 nen\u00ed n\u00e1sobkem ani pod\u00edlem ostatn\u00edch, t\u00fdden m\u00e1 sedm dn\u00ed, duha sedm barev, v poh\u00e1dk\u00e1ch se to hem\u017e\u00ed sedmero \u0159ekami a sedmero horami, sedmi trpasl\u00edky \u010di sedmi krkavci, mluv\u00ed se o sedmi divech sv\u011bta.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n

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