{"id":242505,"date":"2024-12-28T18:49:15","date_gmt":"2024-12-28T17:49:15","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=242505"},"modified":"2024-12-31T19:33:11","modified_gmt":"2024-12-31T18:33:11","slug":"stara-sumava-a-posumavi-vune-horkeho-punce","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=242505","title":{"rendered":"STAR\u00c1 \u0160UMAVA A PO\u0160UMAV\u00cd: V\u016fn\u011b hork\u00e9ho pun\u010de"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Kdy\u017e n\u00e1m zima zal\u00e9z\u00e1 pod svetry, venku je po\u0161mourno a nevl\u00eddno, nen\u00ed nic p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011bj\u0161\u00edho, ne\u017e si d\u00e1t hork\u00fd pun\u010d. Oh\u0159\u00e1t si zk\u0159ehl\u00e9 prsty a p\u0159itom si b\u00e1je\u010dn\u011b pochutnat. N\u011bkter\u00e9 n\u00e1poje se traduj\u00ed u\u017e z dob d\u00e1vno minul\u00fdch, ale n\u011bkter\u00e9 maj\u00ed pom\u011brn\u011b zaj\u00edmavou minulost a je\u0161t\u011b zaj\u00edmav\u011bj\u0161\u00ed historii sv\u00e9ho vzniku. Ten pun\u010d plat\u00edm j\u00e1 – takhle se p\u0159etahuj\u00ed dva sedl\u00e1ci ve h\u0159e Ladislava Stroupe\u017enick\u00e9ho Na\u0161i furianti. Hra m\u011bla premi\u00e9ru v roce 1887, d\u00e1 se tedy p\u0159edpokl\u00e1dat, \u017ee v druh\u00e9 polovin\u011b devaten\u00e1ct\u00e9ho stolet\u00ed u\u017e se pun\u010d b\u011b\u017en\u011b v \u010cech\u00e1ch pil…<\/h6>\n

V\u016fn\u011b a chu\u0165 v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edho pun\u010de pat\u0159\u00ed ke sv\u00e1tk\u016fm neodmysliteln\u011b jako strome\u010dek nebo lineck\u00e9 cukrov\u00ed. M\u00e1lokdo by h\u00e1dal, \u017ee pun\u010d byl p\u016fvodn\u011b va\u0159en v Indii. N\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00edci Britsk\u00e9 V\u00fdchodoindick\u00e9 spole\u010dnosti jej v 17. stolet\u00ed dovezli do Evropy a jeho obliba se za\u010dala rychle \u0161\u00ed\u0159it i do dal\u0161\u00edch zem\u00ed. Samotn\u00e9 slovo pun\u010d, v hind\u0161tin\u011b pan\u010da, znamen\u00e1 p\u011bt. P\u016fvodn\u00ed n\u00e1poj se toti\u017e zhotovoval z p\u011bti p\u0159\u00edsad \u2013 alkoholu, vody, cukru, citr\u00f3nu a ko\u0159en\u00ed \u010di \u010daje. A pr\u00e1v\u011b ko\u0159en\u00ed odpov\u00edd\u00e1 za to, \u017ee se pun\u010d dostal do Evropy a n\u00e1sledn\u011b pak do cel\u00e9ho sv\u011bta. Cesty do Indie za ko\u0159en\u00edm, p\u0159in\u00e1\u0161ely velk\u00e9 zisky. Ale i boje, za kter\u00fdmi st\u00e1l v pozad\u00ed t\u0159eba mu\u0161k\u00e1tov\u00fd o\u0159\u00ed\u0161ek.<\/p>\n

Prvn\u00ed p\u00edsemn\u00fd recept na pun\u010d zaznamenal mlad\u00fd n\u011bmeck\u00fd dobrodruh Johan Albrecht de Mandelslo po n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b tov\u00e1rny v indick\u00e9m Suratu v roce 1638. O masov\u00e9 roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00ed se ale postarali p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm \u00fastn\u00edm pod\u00e1n\u00edm oby\u010dejn\u00ed n\u00e1mo\u0159n\u00edci. N\u00e1poj se stal obl\u00edben\u00fdm pit\u00edm v p\u0159\u00edstavn\u00edch doc\u00edch tak\u00e9 proto, \u017ee byl jedn\u00edm z m\u00e1la zp\u016fsob\u016f, jak se v zim\u011b zah\u0159\u00e1t. I z t\u011bchto d\u016fvod\u016f vznikalo mno\u017estv\u00ed nov\u00fdch recept\u016f, kter\u00e9 se ji\u017e striktn\u011b nedr\u017eely z\u00e1sady “p\u011bti” a m\u00edchali kde co.<\/p>\n

V Brit\u00e1nii byl pun\u010d po sv\u00e9m dovezen\u00ed na ostrov p\u0159ipravov\u00e1n z v\u00edna \u010di brandy, a\u017e kolem roku 1655 se za\u010dal pou\u017e\u00edvat rum, konkr\u00e9tn\u011b jamajsk\u00fd. Vznikla ta spr\u00e1vn\u00e1 kombinace pun\u010de, kter\u00fd pijeme i dnes. Variant\u00e1m, kombinac\u00edm a pom\u011br\u016fm surovin se v\u0161ak meze nekladou. Britov\u00e9 z dovezen\u00e9 receptury vytvo\u0159ily tzv. bowle, serv\u00edrovan\u00e9 v \u0161irok\u00fdch n\u00e1dob\u00e1ch. Po bli\u017e\u0161\u00edm prozkoum\u00e1n\u00ed obsahu zjist\u00edte, \u017ee v nich plave kandovan\u00e9 i kompotovan\u00e9 ovoce, rum, sekt a alespo\u0148 jedna tajn\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edsada, kterou hostitel \u010di hostitelka bowle ozvl\u00e1\u0161tnila.<\/p>\n

Poda\u0301va\u0301ni\u0301 punc\u030ce bylo nedi\u0301lnou souc\u030ca\u0301sti\u0301 debat v ru\u030azny\u0301ch spolec\u030censky\u0301ch kruzi\u0301ch, a protoz\u030ce vznikaly cele\u0301 punc\u030cove\u0301 domy a kluby, musela by\u0301t pu\u030avodni\u0301 receptura obohacena o vi\u0301ce nealkoholicky\u0301ch sloz\u030cek. To aby r\u030cec\u030cni\u0301ci vydrz\u030celi debatovat dlouho a vysoky\u0301 podi\u0301l alkoholu jim nepletl jazyk. M\u00fdtus o siln\u00e9m koktejlu, kter\u00fd se pod\u00e1v\u00e1 jen o V\u00e1noc\u00edch je tedy zcela myln\u00fd. V Londy\u0301ne\u030c se od te\u0301 doby tento sofistikovany\u0301 na\u0301poj, pr\u030cipravovany\u0301 do punc\u030covy\u0301ch mi\u0301s, te\u030cs\u030ci\u0301 velke\u0301 oblibe\u030c, a zbytek sv\u011bta samozr\u030cejme\u030c nesmi\u0301 zaosta\u0301vat.V oblasti, kde se p\u016fvodn\u00ed pun\u010d va\u0159\u00ed od prad\u00e1vna, tedy v Indick\u00e9m oce\u00e1nu, se vyu\u017e\u00edv\u00e1 hlavn\u011b jako apetiv, stejn\u011b tak v ostatn\u00edch zem\u00ed Pacifiku. Mexi\u010dan\u00e9 si dop\u0159\u00e1vaj\u00ed agua locu, tzv. bl\u00e1znivou vodu, po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b sladk\u00fd pun\u010d slo\u017een\u00fd z fermentovan\u00e9 cukrov\u00e9 t\u0159tiny, tequily \u010di mezcalu a aquas frescas, nealkoholick\u00e9ho n\u00e1poje z ovoce a obilovin. Sladkost p\u0159\u00edjemn\u011b hal\u00ed vysok\u00fd obsah alkoholu, a tak se zd\u00e1nliv\u011b nevinn\u00e9 pop\u00edjen\u00ed na pl\u00e1\u017ei rychle p\u0159em\u011bn\u00ed v po\u0159\u00e1dnou kocovinu.<\/p>\n

Star\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edslov\u00ed prav\u00ed, \u017ee kde je rum, tam je pun\u010d. Sv\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edznivce si na\u0161el jak u oby\u010dejn\u00fdch lid\u00ed a p\u0159\u00edslu\u0161n\u00edk\u016f vy\u0161\u0161\u00edch t\u0159\u00edd, tak mezi pir\u00e1ty. Zm\u00ednky o rumov\u00e9m pun\u010di m\u016f\u017eeme naj\u00edt v hojn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed m\u00ed\u0159e od 80. let 17. stolet\u00ed. Kup\u0159\u00edkladu francouzsk\u00fd klerik Jean-Baptiste Labat zachytil na Barbadosu v roce 1694, \u017ee zdej\u0161\u00ed pun\u010d se skl\u00e1d\u00e1 ze dvou \u010d\u00e1st\u00ed rumu, jedn\u00e9 \u010d\u00e1sti vody, cukru, citr\u00f3nov\u00e9 nebo limetov\u00e9 \u0161\u0165\u00e1vy, sko\u0159ice, h\u0159eb\u00ed\u010dku a mu\u0161k\u00e1tov\u00e9ho o\u0159echu.<\/p>\n

Prvni\u0301 mi\u0301chany\u0301 na\u0301poj se na nas\u030cem u\u0301zemi\u0301 pr\u030cipravoval dr\u030ci\u0301ve, nez\u030c M. D. Rettigova\u0301 dopsala svou kuchar\u030cku. Stalo se 9. srpna 1792 be\u030chem korunovace ci\u0301sar\u030ce Frantis\u030cka I. za c\u030ceske\u0301ho kra\u0301le. Na slavnost v Kra\u0301lovske\u0301 obor\u030ce bylo pr\u030cipraveno 300 lahvi\u0301 punc\u030ce a v\u0161e bylo p\u00edsemn\u011b stvrzeno! Jen pro zaj\u00edmavost: ve Slovn\u00edku spisovn\u00e9ho jazyka \u010desk\u00e9ho se do\u010dteme, \u017ee p\u016fvodn\u011b se pun\u010d \u0159\u00edkalo jen tekutin\u011b, kter\u00e1 se lila do hork\u00e9 vody nebo \u010daje, aby vznikl n\u00e1poj. Tedy sp\u00ed\u0161e jen jak\u00e9si tresti. A\u017e pozd\u011bji se n\u00e1zev pun\u010d p\u0159enesl na samotn\u00fd n\u00e1poj, obsahuj\u00edc\u00ed p\u011bt z\u00e1kladn\u00edch ingredienc\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Na zru\u0161en\u00fdch v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edch trz\u00edch se to druhy pun\u010d\u016f jen hem\u017eilo. Maj\u00ed \u010dervenou, nahn\u011bdlou \u010di \u017elutou barvu, co\u017e je d\u00e1no z\u00e1kladn\u00ed ingredienc\u00ed: \u010derven\u00fdm i b\u00edl\u00fdm v\u00ednem, a rumem. D\u016fle\u017eit\u00fdmi ingrediencemi jsou p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm pl\u00e1tky citronu a pomeran\u010de, sko\u0159ice, bady\u00e1n, h\u0159eb\u00ed\u010dek a cukr. Pun\u010d se ozvl\u00e1\u0161t\u0148uje tak\u00e9 rozinkami, medem, \u010dern\u00fdm \u010dajem, o\u0159\u00ed\u0161ky, griotkou, mandarinkami, ananasem \u010di dal\u0161\u00edm exotick\u00fdm ovocem. Meze se zkr\u00e1tka nekladou. A\u0165 u\u017e d\u00e1v\u00e1te p\u0159ednost n\u011bmeck\u00e9 \u010di \u010desk\u00e9 variant\u011b pun\u010de, nebo uzn\u00e1v\u00e1te jedin\u011b bowle anglick\u00e9ho typu, dnes je ide\u00e1ln\u00ed p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitost uva\u0159it si tento obl\u00edben\u00fd hork\u00fd n\u00e1poj i mimo v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed sez\u00f3nu. Pokud se k v\u00e1m pun\u010d je\u0161t\u011b nikdy nedostal, d\u00e1 se p\u0159irovnat k ovocn\u011bj\u0161\u00edmu grogu, slad\u0161\u00edmu sva\u0159en\u00e9mu v\u00ednu a rozhodn\u011b stoj\u00ed za ochutn\u00e1n\u00ed. Jen si dejte pozor, pije se nebezpe\u010dn\u011b snadno.<\/p>\n

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P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

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