{"id":185283,"date":"2021-02-08T13:37:42","date_gmt":"2021-02-08T12:37:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=185283"},"modified":"2021-02-08T13:37:42","modified_gmt":"2021-02-08T12:37:42","slug":"stara-sumava-masopustni-zlatavy-kousek-nebe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=185283","title":{"rendered":"STAR\u00c1 \u0160UMAVA: Masopustn\u00ed zlatav\u00fd kousek nebe"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Mo\u017en\u00e1 si vzpomenete na vypr\u00e1v\u011bn\u00ed o toulav\u00e9m kobl\u00ed\u017eku, kter\u00fd nechala babi\u010dka chladit na okenn\u00ed \u0159\u00edmse. D\u011bdek u\u017e se nemohl do\u010dkat, ale kobl\u00ed\u017eek sko\u010dil z okna dol\u016f a vydal se do sv\u011bta…<\/h6>\n

Zlatav\u011b ope\u010den\u00e9 boch\u00e1nky se sv\u011btl\u00fdm prst\u00fdnkem na kraj\u00edch, vnit\u0159ek nad\u00fdchan\u00fd jako p\u00e9\u0159ov\u00e1 duchna, rozmanit\u00e9 n\u00e1pln\u011b, polevy a posypky \u2013 to jsou koblihy. Sla\u010fou\u010dk\u00e1 kobliha a lehk\u00e1 jako pe\u0159\u00ed\u010dko, takov\u00e9 m\u00e1me o\u010dek\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed, ne\u017e se zakousneme do zlatav\u00e9 usma\u017een\u00e9 koule. O masopustu m\u011bly hospodyn\u011b pln\u00e9 ruce pr\u00e1ce. O maso nebyla nouze, proto\u017ee se p\u0159edt\u00edm \u010dasto konaly zabija\u010dky. S oblibou se proto o masopustu slavily i svatby, ze kter\u00fdch m\u011bla podle pov\u011bry vzej\u00edt trval\u00e1 man\u017eelstv\u00ed. Krom\u011b zabija\u010dkov\u00fdch pochoutek m\u00ed\u0159ily na st\u016fl tak\u00e9 \u0161kvarkov\u00e9 placky, vdolky, \u0161i\u0161ky nebo kol\u00e1\u010de. D\u016fle\u017eitou masopustn\u00ed pochoutkou byly koblihy sma\u017een\u00e9 na m\u00e1sle a pln\u011bn\u00e9 povidly nebo mlet\u00fdm m\u00e1kem.<\/p>\n

A pr\u00e1v\u011b koblihy budou st\u0159edem na\u0161eho z\u00e1jmu. Nejstar\u0161\u00ed zm\u00ednka o koblih\u00e1ch poj\u00eddaj\u00edc\u00ed se o masopustu poch\u00e1z\u00ed v \u010cech\u00e1ch ji\u017e ze 13. stolet\u00ed. Masopustn\u00ed kobliha je \u00fadajn\u011b jedin\u00fdm pokrmem, kter\u00fd se ji\u017e v 13. stolet\u00ed roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159il po cel\u00e9 zemi coby neodmysliteln\u00fd a opravdov\u00fd masopustn\u00ed chod. Tomuto mou\u010dn\u00edku byla d\u0159\u00edve p\u0159isuzov\u00e1na magick\u00e1 s\u00edla. N\u011bkolik kousk\u016f z prvn\u00ed upe\u010den\u00e9 v\u00e1rky koblih se v\u017edy uschovalo, usu\u0161ilo a posl\u00e9ze rozdrtilo na pr\u00e1\u0161ek. O n\u011bco mlad\u0161\u00ed jsou zm\u00ednky o \u017een\u00e1ch – kobli\u017enic\u00edch.<\/p>\n

Ve st\u0159edov\u011bku slovo koblih symbolizovalo masopust – maso nen\u00ed. Proto se v t\u00e9 dob\u011b v receptech setk\u00e1me s r\u016fzn\u00fdmi n\u00e1pln\u011bmi, ale tak\u00e9 mnoha druhy ko\u0159en\u00ed, kter\u00e9 hospody\u0148ky do kobl\u00ed\u017ek\u016f p\u0159id\u00e1valy. Nej\u010dast\u011bji to byla \u0159e\u0159icha, \u0161alv\u011bj \u010di kdoule. Koblihy se sma\u017eily ve vysok\u00e9 vrstv\u011b toho nejlep\u0161\u00edho oleje (n\u011bkdy i bukvicov\u00e9ho). Proto\u017ee lid\u00e9 je\u0161t\u011b v t\u00e9 dob\u011b nedok\u00e1zali konzervovat olej, proto si v zimn\u00edm obdob\u00ed, kdy se lisoval, obl\u00edbili pr\u00e1v\u011b sma\u017een\u00e9 koblihy. Ty s d\u00edrou nos\u00ed na sv\u00e9m ro\u017eni poh\u0159eben\u00e1\u0159, masopustn\u00ed postava se zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00edm n\u00e1zvem. Na h\u016fl si jako v\u00fdslu\u017eku od hospody\u0148 z jednotliv\u00fdch staven\u00ed navl\u00e9k\u00e1 koblihov\u00e9 prst\u00fdnky, nebo si na ni napichuje kusy slaniny.<\/p>\n

Dal\u0161\u00ed masopustn\u00ed pochoutkou byly bo\u017e\u00ed milosti. Na p\u0159\u00edpravu koblih i bo\u017e\u00edch milost\u00ed se pou\u017e\u00edvaj\u00ed b\u00edl\u00e9 potraviny jako vejce, mouka a ml\u00e9ko. Pr\u00e1v\u011b ty jsou podle star\u00fdch pov\u011br pochoutkou ur\u010denou pro potravu dobr\u00fdch duch\u016f. Jde toti\u017e o obvykl\u00e9 ob\u011btn\u00ed j\u00eddlo, kter\u00e9 hospod\u00e1\u0159 nosil jako ob\u011btn\u00ed dar i do pol\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Raku\u0161an\u00e9 tvrd\u00ed, \u017ee to byla pr\u00e1v\u011b jejich dvorn\u00ed kucha\u0159ka C\u00e4cilie Krapfen, kter\u00e1 v roce 1690 o masopustu koblihy vymyslela, naplnila meru\u0148kovou marmel\u00e1dou a po usma\u017een\u00ed velmi \u00fasp\u011b\u0161n\u011b pod n\u00e1zvem Cecillikugeln prod\u00e1vala. Po n\u00ed se pr\u00fd i kobliha, n\u011bmecky Krapfen, jmenuje. V\u00edde\u0148\u00e1k\u016fm koblihy chutnaly, jedly i na dlouh\u00e9m V\u00edde\u0148sk\u00e9m kongresu v roce 1815, dle dochovan\u00fdch z\u00e1znam\u016f se jich tehdy usma\u017eilo a sn\u011bdlo neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00fdch 10 milion\u016f kus\u016f!<\/p>\n

V N\u011bmecku nedaj\u00ed dopustit na svoje \u201eBerliner\u201c, pojmenovan\u00e9 po berl\u00ednsk\u00e9m cukr\u00e1\u0159i, kter\u00fd pr\u00fd, samoz\u0159ejm\u011b tak\u00e9 jako zcela prvn\u00ed, tuto dobrotu sma\u017eil v roce 1750 unaven\u00fdm voj\u00e1k\u016fm ve v\u00e1lce, a proto\u017ee byl s\u00e1m kdysi d\u011blost\u0159elec, dal jim tvar d\u011blov\u00e9 koule. Ani jeden z nich v\u0161ak koblihy nevymyslel, ty maj\u00ed mnohem del\u0161\u00ed historii. Mou\u010dn\u00edk sma\u017een\u00fd v hork\u00e9m s\u00e1dle jm\u00e9nem \u201ecrapho\u201c se objevuje v dob\u00e1ch Karla Velik\u00e9ho, kde se v knih\u00e1ch nach\u00e1zej\u00ed povolen\u00ed k prodeji t\u00e9to sladkosti. Ale historie jde je\u0161t\u011b d\u00e1l, v popisu jarn\u00edch Bachanali\u00ed star\u00fdch \u0158\u00edman\u016f jsou popsan\u00e9 sladk\u00e9 sma\u017een\u00e9 a m\u00e1kem a f\u00edkovou marmel\u00e1dou pln\u011bn\u00e9 kuli\u010dky, \u201eglobuli\u201c za tepla pomazan\u00e9 medem, kter\u00e9 se jedly v obrovsk\u00e9m mno\u017estv\u00ed. Ale kobl\u00ed\u017eky se v historii dokut\u00e1lely je\u0161t\u011b d\u00e1l, pochutn\u00e1vala si na nich z\u0159ejm\u011b i bohyn\u011b Ceres, kter\u00e9 nosili sta\u0159\u00ed \u0158ekov\u00e9 tento pamlsek jako ob\u011btinu. Koblih\u00e1m podobn\u00e9 j\u00eddlo se na\u0161lo i v hrobech ve vykop\u00e1vk\u00e1ch v Egypt\u011b.<\/p>\n

Nev\u00edme, kdo koblihy vymyslel, ale byl to ur\u010dit\u011b velmi dobr\u00fd n\u00e1pad. Na sv\u00fdch koblih\u00e1ch, Krapfen, Pfannkuchen, Boule de Berlin \u010di Jelly Douhnuts si pochutn\u00e1v\u00e1 a\u017e do dnes cel\u00fd sv\u011bt.<\/p>\n

Spojen\u00e9 st\u00e1ty americk\u00e9 vstoup\u00ed do prvn\u00ed sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lky na ja\u0159e roku 1917. Pos\u00edl\u00ed st\u00e1ty Dohody. Spolu s americkou Prvn\u00ed diviz\u00ed doraz\u00ed na podzim t\u00e9ho\u017e roku do Francie i skupina \u017een z arm\u00e1dy sp\u00e1sy. Voj\u00e1k\u016fm se maj\u00ed starat o \u201edobrou n\u00e1ladu\u201c. Zp\u00edvaj\u00ed jim p\u00edsni\u010dky, pov\u00eddaj\u00ed si s nimi a podobn\u011b. \u201eTo nesta\u010d\u00ed. Pot\u0159ebuj\u00ed p\u00e9\u010di, na jakou jsou zvykl\u00ed z domova. Nejl\u00e9pe n\u011bco dobr\u00e9ho na zub.\u201c nepochybuje jedna z dobrovolnic Helen Purvianceov\u00e1. \u201eMus\u00ed to b\u00fdt n\u011bjak\u00e9 jednoduch\u00e9, a p\u0159itom poctiv\u00e9 j\u00eddlo!\u201c m\u00e1 jasno jej\u00ed kamar\u00e1dka Margaret Sheldonov\u00e1, kter\u00e9 se n\u00e1pad zal\u00edb\u00ed. \u201eKoblihy!\u201c shodnou se nakonec ob\u011b \u017eeny. V helm\u011b rozpust\u00ed s\u00e1dlo, ve kter\u00e9m koblihy osma\u017e\u00ed. \u201eJsou moc dobr\u00e9!\u201c oddechnou si Helen s Margaret, kdy\u017e je ochutnaj\u00ed. Test dopadl dob\u0159e, a tak hned naz\u00edt\u0159\u00ed p\u0159iprav\u00ed novou v\u00e1rku kobl\u00ed\u017ek\u016f. Voj\u00edn Braxton Zuber se tv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed ned\u016fv\u011b\u0159iv\u011b. Zlehka p\u0159ip\u00e1len\u00e9 a beztvar\u00e9 \u201eboch\u00e1nky\u201c v n\u011bm p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 velk\u00e9 nad\u0161en\u00ed nevyvol\u00e1vaj\u00ed. Ale co! Kdy\u017e tak hezky von\u00ed\u2026 S\u00e1hne po jednom kousku, zakousne se do n\u011bj a\u2026 Po tv\u00e1\u0159i se mu rozlije bla\u017een\u00fd \u00fasm\u011bv. Jeho kamar\u00e1di hur\u00f3nsky vyk\u0159iknou a zhruba 150 koblih si b\u011bhem chvilky rozeberou.<\/p>\n

Druh\u00fd den se jich usma\u017e\u00ed dvakr\u00e1t tolik, ov\u0161em ani to nesta\u010d\u00ed. Voj\u00e1ci jsou z kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 novinky u vytr\u017een\u00ed. Uplyne p\u00e1r t\u00fddn\u016f a kucha\u0159sk\u00fd t\u00fdm se sehraje natolik, \u017ee dok\u00e1\u017ee denn\u011b p\u0159ipravit 9000 kr\u00e1sn\u011b kulat\u00fdch koblih. Ty u\u017e se samoz\u0159ejm\u011b nesma\u017e\u00ed na helm\u00e1ch, ale v roz\u0159\u00edznut\u00fdch sudech od benzinu. A nav\u00edc maj\u00ed d\u00edru uprost\u0159ed (\u0161lo o takzvan\u00e9 donuty). \u0160ikovn\u00fd zlep\u0161ov\u00e1k p\u0159inese u\u017eitek ob\u011bma stran\u00e1m. Kucha\u0159ky si usnadn\u00ed sma\u017een\u00ed koblih (v oleji se l\u00e9pe ot\u00e1\u010dej\u00ed) a voj\u00e1ci s nimi mohou sn\u00e1z manipulovat: Jednodu\u0161e si je navl\u00e9knou na kus klacku, kter\u00fd labu\u017enicky \u201eokusuj\u00ed\u201c.<\/p>\n

Tak ruku na srdce, tak\u00e9 se v\u00e1m sb\u00edhaj\u00ed sliny p\u0159i pomy\u0161len\u00ed na sladkou, po cukru vo\u0148avou kouli s tak dlouhou histori\u00ed? Mysl\u00edte si, \u017ee je p\u0159\u00edprava slo\u017eit\u00e1? Pr\u00e1v\u011b naopak. Odm\u011bnou za trochu t\u00e9 pr\u00e1ce v\u00e1m budou koblihy nad\u00fdchan\u00e9 jako p\u00edrko, po kter\u00fdch se jen zapr\u00e1\u0161\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Zdroj: Dezerty s histori\u00ed M. Horn\u00edkov\u00e1<\/strong><\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

(Z cyklu Star\u00e1 \u0160umava)<\/p>\n

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