{"id":180539,"date":"2019-12-27T17:43:20","date_gmt":"2019-12-27T16:43:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=180539"},"modified":"2019-12-27T17:43:20","modified_gmt":"2019-12-27T16:43:20","slug":"stara-sumava-tajemstvi-oblozeneho-chlebicku","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=180539","title":{"rendered":"STAR\u00c1 \u0160UMAVA: Tajemstv\u00ed oblo\u017een\u00e9ho chleb\u00ed\u010dku"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Pl\u00e1tek \u010derstv\u00e9 nad\u00fdchan\u00e9 veky, sal\u00e1t nebo pomaz\u00e1nka, kole\u010dko sal\u00e1mu, ozdoba ve form\u011b petr\u017eelky, raj\u010dete, okurky a pl\u00e1tku vejce\u2026 To je tradi\u010dn\u00ed oblo\u017een\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek. \u010cesk\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek. Sv\u016fj p\u016fvod m\u00e1 toti\u017e v Praze. A nikde jinde na sv\u011bt\u011b se s takov\u00fdmto pojet\u00edm nesetk\u00e1te. T\u00e9to lah\u016fdce, bez kter\u00e9 si dnes ani neum\u00edme p\u0159edstavit \u017e\u00e1dnou oslavu, dal \u201e\u017eivot\u201c Jan Paukert…<\/h6>\n

Oblo\u017een\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek je synonymem oslav a setk\u00e1n\u00ed. Na chlebu oblo\u017een\u00e9m masem si pr\u00fd pochutn\u00e1val u\u017e Napoleon, na na\u0161e \u00fazem\u00ed \u201echleb\u00ed\u010dky\u201c dorazily p\u0159es N\u011bmecko a\u017e ve druh\u00e9 polovin\u011b 19. stolet\u00ed. P\u0159edstavoval je kraj\u00ed\u010dek \u010dern\u00e9ho chleba s pl\u00e1tkem slane\u010dka a cibul\u00ed. Nad chleb\u00ed\u010dky, v jak\u00e9 podob\u011b dorazily do \u010desk\u00fdch zem\u00ed na konci devaten\u00e1ct\u00e9ho stolet\u00ed, bychom se ale dnes asi p\u011bkn\u011b o\u0161kl\u00edbali. To p\u0159ece nen\u00ed po\u0159\u00e1dn\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek!<\/p>\n

Na zm\u011bnu si \u010ce\u0161i po\u010dkaj\u00ed je\u0161t\u011b dvacet let, ale u\u017e v roce 1916 zakl\u00e1d\u00e1 Jan Paukert slavn\u00e9 lah\u016fdk\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed na N\u00e1rodn\u00ed t\u0159\u00edd\u011b a chleb\u00ed\u010dkov\u00fd n\u00e1rod se za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 rodit. Typick\u00fd oblo\u017een\u00fd chleb\u00ed\u010dek tak, jak ho zn\u00e1me, vznik\u00e1 na popud Paukertova rodinn\u00e9ho p\u0159\u00edtele mal\u00ed\u0159e Jana Ryt\u00ed\u0159e Skraml\u00edka, kter\u00e9mu se jako poho\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed moc nezdaj\u00ed jednohubky a vy\u017eaduje \u201en\u011bco tak na dv\u011b, t\u0159i zakousnut\u00ed\u201c. A \u201en\u011bco tak na dv\u011b zakousnut\u00ed\u201c v podob\u011b, kterou vymyslel Jan Paukert star\u0161\u00ed, se \u010cech\u016fm za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 moc l\u00edbit.<\/p>\n

Chleb\u00ed\u010dky se trochu zv\u011bt\u0161uj\u00ed a vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00fdch pra\u017esk\u00fdch lah\u016fdk\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed vznik\u00e1 nakonec deset, mezi jin\u00fdmi Lippert, Stiedl, \u010cadil, Zoufal\u00fd \u010di Laibl. A pr\u00e1v\u011b trasa Lippert-Zoufal\u00fd-Paukert se st\u00e1v\u00e1 trasou vyhl\u00e1\u0161en\u00fdch prvorepublikov\u00fdch gurm\u00e1n\u016f. Ka\u017ed\u00e9 lah\u016fdk\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed m\u00e1 tak\u00e9 svou specialitu \u2013 chleb\u00ed\u010dky se obkl\u00e1daj\u00ed hus\u00edmi j\u00e1try, sardelkami, kapary, humry, lan\u00fd\u017ei, uzen\u00fdm jazykem \u010di uzen\u00fdm \u00faho\u0159em. A u Paukerta si na nich ve t\u0159ic\u00e1t\u00fdch letech pochutn\u00e1v\u00e1 \u010desk\u00e1 um\u011bleck\u00e1 elita \u2013 Hugo Haas, Jaroslav Seifert, Ema Destinov\u00e1, Werich s Voskovcem i Vlasta Burian, kter\u00fd zde po\u0159\u00e1d\u00e1 sv\u00e9 slavn\u00e9 chleb\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e9 hostiny. Paukert tak\u00e9 lah\u016fdkami z\u00e1sobuje st\u016fl prezidenta T. G. Masaryka a je jedn\u00edm ze t\u0159\u00ed nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00edch lah\u016fdk\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed v cel\u00e9 Evrop\u011b\u2026V\u00fdznamnou roli sehr\u00e1l chleb\u00ed\u010dek i v \u010desk\u00fdch d\u011bjin\u00e1ch.<\/p>\n

V z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed 1941 protektor\u00e1tn\u00ed p\u0159edseda vl\u00e1dy Alois Eli\u00e1\u0161 p\u0159ijal skupinu \u0161\u00e9fredaktor\u016f sympatizuj\u00edc\u00edch s nacistick\u00fdm re\u017eimem, kte\u0159\u00ed ve sv\u00fdch propagandistick\u00fdch \u010dl\u00e1nc\u00edch bojovali za za\u010dlen\u011bn\u00ed \u010desk\u00fdch zem\u00ed do \u0159\u00ed\u0161e. Eli\u00e1\u0161 pro n\u011b p\u0159ipravil poho\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed \u2013 chleb\u00ed\u010dky, kter\u00e9 nechal sv\u00fdm p\u0159\u00edtelem bakteriologem Franti\u0161kem Pato\u010dkou napustit bakteriemi tyfu, tuberkul\u00f3zy a botulotoxinu. U v\u011bt\u0161iny novin\u00e1\u0159\u016f se objevily zdravotn\u00ed probl\u00e9my, jeden z nich \u2013 Karel La\u017enovsk\u00fd otrav\u011b podlehl. Nacist\u00e9 ozna\u010dili jeho \u00famrt\u00ed za politickou vra\u017edu. Gener\u00e1l Eli\u00e1\u0161 byl zat\u010den a za svou odbojovou \u010dinnost, kter\u00e1 se zdaleka net\u00fdkala pouze travi\u010dsk\u00e9 af\u00e9ry, byl popraven.<\/p>\n

Sl\u00e1va Jana Paukerta za\u0161la spolu se zn\u00e1rodn\u011bn\u00edm. I chleb\u00ed\u010dky se za minul\u00e9ho re\u017eimu tak n\u011bjak zn\u00e1rodnily a znormalizovaly. Byl jich jen omezen\u00fd v\u00fdb\u011br, suroviny ne tak kvalitn\u00ed, a o specialit\u00e1ch, jako byly chleb\u00ed\u010dky s kapary, lan\u00fd\u017ei a hus\u00edmi j\u00e1try, si mohl nechat nov\u00fd socialistick\u00fd \u010dlov\u011bk leda zd\u00e1t. Zato to bylo obdob\u00ed naklon\u011bn\u00e9 lidov\u00e9 tvo\u0159ivosti a dom\u00e1c\u00edmu maz\u00e1n\u00ed veky. Jan Paukert zem\u0159el v zapomn\u011bn\u00ed roku 1972.<\/p>\n

Zato chleb\u00ed\u010dek \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 totalita neohrozila. \u017dije si v lep\u0161\u00ed \u010di hor\u0161\u00ed kvalit\u011b vlastn\u00edm \u017eivotem a\u017e dodnes. P\u0159esto\u017ee pak po dlouh\u00e1 desetilet\u00ed podnik nenesl rodinn\u00e9 jm\u00e9no, Pra\u017ean\u00e9 d\u00e1l nakupovali \u201eu Paukerta\u201c. Jan Paukert junior z\u00edskal lah\u016fdk\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed v restituci v roce 1991, zem\u0159el o 19 let pozd\u011bji v 91 letech. V \u0159\u00edjnu 2008 bylo lah\u016fdk\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed znovu otev\u0159eno po rozs\u00e1hl\u00e9 rekonstrukci. I kdy\u017e u\u017e v n\u011bm \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd z potomk\u016f zakladatele nep\u016fsob\u00ed, st\u00e1le nese jm\u00e9no Jan Paukert.<\/p>\n

Pokud byste si cht\u011bli p\u0159ipravit chleb\u00ed\u010dek, kter\u00fd bude vypadat jako \u201epraotec chleb\u00ed\u010dek\u201c od Paukerta, nezapome\u0148te – vezm\u011bte kraj\u00ed\u010dek veky, jednu polovinu nama\u017ete m\u00e1slem, na druhou polo\u017ete kope\u010dek bramborov\u00e9ho sal\u00e1tu, na ten pl\u00e1tek \u0161unky od kosti, na m\u00e1slo uhersk\u00fd sal\u00e1m a to v\u0161e dozdobte – t\u0159eba \u0161unkovou p\u011bnou nebo kyselou okurkou. A\u0165 v\u00e1m chutn\u00e1!<\/p>\n

Zdroj: Nodl, Ladislav; Mand\u017eukov\u00e1, Jarmila; Havl\u016f, Karina. Velk\u00e1 dom\u00e1c\u00ed kucha\u0159ka. 1. vyd. Praha: Slovart, 2004.<\/strong><\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

(Z cyklu Star\u00e1 \u0160umava)<\/p>\n

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  Pl\u00e1tek <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":180541,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"gallery","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[111],"tags":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/12\/27\/r\u00e1me\u010dek-star\u00e1-\u0161umava.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/180539"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=180539"}],"version-history":[{"count":1,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/180539\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":180540,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/180539\/revisions\/180540"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/180541"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=180539"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=180539"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=180539"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}