{"id":179969,"date":"2023-12-22T16:23:34","date_gmt":"2023-12-22T15:23:34","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=179969"},"modified":"2023-12-26T23:42:04","modified_gmt":"2023-12-26T22:42:04","slug":"stara-sumava-linecke-cukrovi-a-vanilkove-rohlicky","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=179969","title":{"rendered":"STAR\u00c1 \u0160UMAVA: Lineck\u00e9 cukrov\u00ed a vanilkov\u00e9 rohl\u00ed\u010dky"},"content":{"rendered":"

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P\u0159enesme se do doby, kter\u00e9 \u0159\u00edk\u00e1me \u201eBelle \u00e9poque\u201c (Kr\u00e1sn\u00e1 doba, kr\u00e1sn\u00e9 \u010dasy je slovn\u00ed ozna\u010den\u00ed obdob\u00ed evropsk\u00fdch d\u011bjin mezi lety 1890 a 1914) , \u010das\u016f vrcholn\u00e9 m\u011b\u0161\u0165ansk\u00e9, v\u00edde\u0148sk\u00e9 kuchyn\u011b. Do c. a k. Rakousko-Uherska, kde zapustila ko\u0159eny i gastronomie \u010desk\u00e1. Po prvn\u00ed sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lce v roce 1918 hlasit\u011b zazn\u00edvalo \u010deskou spole\u010dnost\u00ed heslo \u201ePry\u010d od V\u00eddn\u011b!\u201c A\u017e komicky se tento postoj projevil v \u010desk\u00fdch dobov\u00fdch kucha\u0159k\u00e1ch a j\u00eddeln\u00edch l\u00edstc\u00edch zmizen\u00edm v\u0161eho, co by mohlo by\u0165 jen vzd\u00e1len\u011b c. a k. monarchii p\u0159ipom\u00ednat.<\/h6>\n

“Ud\u011blej z toho, co chce\u0161, v\u0161echno to bude dobr\u00e9 a kr\u00e1sn\u00e9!” radily v receptech na lineck\u00e9 t\u011bsto u\u017e rakousk\u00e9 kucha\u0159ky z 18. stolet\u00ed. Hospody\u0148ky si to vzaly k srdci a mnohostrannosti vo\u0148av\u00e9ho t\u011bsta vyu\u017eily na r\u016fzn\u00e9 zp\u016fsoby. Vedle p\u016fvodn\u00edho dortu se z n\u011bj dnes pe\u010de cukrov\u00ed mnoha tvar\u016f. \u010cesk\u00e9 zem\u011b pat\u0159ily k rakousko-uhersk\u00e9 monarchii a vanil\u00adkov\u00e9 rohl\u00ed\u010dky, mandlov\u00e9 \u0159ezy, lineck\u00e1 kole\u010dka, pern\u00ed\u010dky, rumov\u00e9 kuli\u010dky atd. jsou spole\u010dn\u00fdm d\u011bdictv\u00edm obou n\u00e1rod\u016f.<\/p>\n

Lineck\u00e1 kole\u010dka slepovan\u00e1 d\u017eemem jsou jednou z vlajkov\u00fdch lod\u00ed \u010desk\u00e9ho v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edho cukrov\u00ed. Ale odkud se vlastn\u011b na n\u00e1\u0161 st\u016fl dostala? Ne n\u00e1hodou se jim \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 tak\u00e9 ko\u010di\u010d\u00ed o\u010di \u010di lineck\u00e9 o\u010di \u2013 jejich ko\u0159eny toti\u017e le\u017e\u00ed v rakousk\u00e9m Linci a tamn\u00edm typick\u00e9m pe\u010divu \u2013 Linzer Augen. Sladk\u00e1 Linzer Augen se v dob\u011b Rakouska-Uherska roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159ila po cel\u00e9 monarchii a tedy i do \u010cech. Kde se ov\u0161em vzala v samotn\u00e9m Linci? To nen\u00ed tak \u00fapln\u011b jasn\u00e9. P\u016fvodn\u011b se v Linci pekl slavn\u00fd lineck\u00fd kol\u00e1\u010d, jeho\u017e historie sah\u00e1 a\u017e do 17. stolet\u00ed. Tehdy recept na toto kol\u00e1\u010dov\u00e9 t\u011bsto zaznamenala Anna Margarita Sagramosa aus Krain, rozen\u00e1 hrab\u011bnka Paradeiser, do sv\u00fdch ru\u010dn\u011b psan\u00fdch kucha\u0159sk\u00fdch z\u00e1znam\u016f.<\/p>\n

Dnes je jej\u00ed rukopis ulo\u017een v knihovn\u011b opatstv\u00ed Admont v Rakousku. Postupn\u011b se recepty objevovaly i v dal\u0161\u00edch kucha\u0159sk\u00fdch knih\u00e1ch a roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159ily se do lineck\u00fdch cukr\u00e1ren. Lineck\u00fd kol\u00e1\u010d se stal popul\u00e1rn\u00edm, milovala ho t\u0159eba c\u00edsa\u0159ovna Sissi. \u010casem se za\u010daly z tohoto t\u011bsta p\u00e9ci nejen velk\u00e9 kol\u00e1\u010de, ale i men\u0161\u00ed kousky, naz\u00fdvan\u00e9 Linzer B\u00e4ckerei. Nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00edmi p\u0159edstaviteli tohoto drobn\u011bj\u0161\u00edho Linzer B\u00e4ckerei jsou jednak rohl\u00ed\u010dky a hlavn\u011b n\u00e1m dob\u0159e zn\u00e1m\u00e9 Linzer Augen.<\/p>\n

Recept\u016f na lineck\u00e9 t\u011bsto (kter\u00e9mu se ale v samotn\u00e9m Linci lineck\u00e9 obvykle ne\u0159\u00edk\u00e1) je mnoho, ka\u017ed\u00e1 cukr\u00e1rna si hl\u00edd\u00e1 ten sv\u016fj. Ani t\u011bsto na Linzer Torte a Linzer B\u00e4ckerei nen\u00ed toto\u017en\u00e9, m\u00edrn\u011b se li\u0161\u00ed pom\u011brem surovin. Mandle mus\u00edme pra\u017eit velmi opatrn\u011b, aby nedo\u0161lo k jejich sp\u00e1len\u00ed. Obecn\u011b se rozli\u0161uje sv\u011btl\u00e9 a hn\u011bd\u00e9 lineck\u00e9 t\u011bsto. Sv\u011btl\u00e9 se pe\u010de z b\u00edl\u00e9 mouky (variabiln\u011b je \u010d\u00e1st mouky nahrazena jemn\u011b mlet\u00fdmi loupan\u00fdmi mandlemi) a aromatizuje se vanilkou a n\u011bkdy i citronovou k\u016frou.<\/p>\n

Hn\u011bd\u00e9 lineck\u00e9 t\u011bsto obsahuje opra\u017een\u00e9 jemn\u011b umlet\u00e9 loupan\u00e9 mandle nebo o\u0159\u00ed\u0161ky, co\u017e mu d\u00e1v\u00e1 typickou sv\u011btle b\u00e9\u017eovou barvu. Aromatizuje se p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm sko\u0159ic\u00ed, ob\u010das i h\u0159eb\u00ed\u010dkem, mu\u0161k\u00e1tem \u010di dal\u0161\u00edm ko\u0159en\u00edm. Linzer Augen jsou v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e na\u0161e cukrov\u00ed \u2013 obvykle maj\u00ed pr\u016fm\u011br 8\u201310 cm. N\u00e1zev Augen upom\u00edn\u00e1 na otvory – “o\u010di” \u2013 kter\u00e9 jsou vykrojeny do horn\u00edho kole\u010dka. Linzer Augen m\u00edvaj\u00ed bu\u010f jeden otvor uprost\u0159ed, nebo t\u0159i otvory uspo\u0159\u00e1dan\u00e9 do troj\u00faheln\u00edku. Pln\u00e9 a vykrojen\u00e9 kole\u010dko se slepuje pikantn\u00edm kyselej\u0161\u00edm d\u017eemem, kter\u00fd vyv\u00e1\u017e\u00ed v\u00fdraznou sladkost t\u011bsta. Nej\u010dast\u011bji ryb\u00edzov\u00fdm, malinov\u00fdm nebo meru\u0148kov\u00fdm.<\/p>\n

… bezesporu nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00edm a snad i nejpe\u010den\u011bj\u0161\u00edm v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edm cukrov\u00edm jsou vanilkov\u00e9 rohl\u00ed\u010dky. P\u016fvod maj\u00ed v rakousk\u00e9m hlavn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b, V\u00eddni a naz\u00fdvaj\u00ed se vanillekipferl. Tradi\u010dn\u00edm cukrov\u00edm jsou i v Ma\u010farsku. Ostatn\u011b po\u010d\u00e1tky tohoto tvaru cukrov\u00ed sahaj\u00ed \u00fadajn\u011b a\u017e do doby p\u0159ed vznikem Rakouska-Uherska. Jejich vznik je spojen s v\u00edt\u011bzstv\u00edm, kdy arm\u00e1da rakousk\u00e9ho c\u00edsa\u0159stv\u00ed dne 12. z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed 1683 porazila osmansk\u00e9 Turky, kte\u0159\u00ed za\u00fato\u010dili na m\u011bsto V\u00edde\u0148. M\u00edstn\u00ed peka\u0159i \u00fadajn\u011b projevovali sv\u00e9 znepokojen\u00ed t\u00edm, \u017ee pekli srpky symbolizuj\u00edc\u00ed tureck\u00fd p\u016flm\u011bs\u00edc. N\u00e1sledn\u011b za \u00fa\u010delem oslav pekli sladk\u00e9 vo\u0148av\u00e9 vanilkov\u00e9 rohl\u00ed\u010dky. Nev\u00ed se, zda legenda o vanilkov\u00fdch rohl\u00ed\u010dc\u00edch je pravdiv\u00e1, ale na ka\u017ed\u00e9m \u0161prochu, pravdy trochu.<\/p>\n

Na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed pro n\u00e1s, recept na vanilkov\u00e9 rohl\u00ed\u010dky Demel odtajnil rakousk\u00fd restaurat\u00e9r tureck\u00e9ho p\u016fvodu Attila Dogudan, kter\u00fd tradi\u010dn\u00ed cukr\u00e1rnu a pek\u00e1rnu dnes provozuje. A n\u011bco m\u00e1lo k jejich p\u016fvodu. Historie dvorn\u00ed cukr\u00e1rny sah\u00e1 a\u017e do roku 1786, kdy se Ludwig Dehne z W\u00fcrttembergu usadil ve V\u00eddni. Zalo\u017eil si \u017eivnost, ve kter\u00e9 se v\u011bnoval prodeji mra\u017een\u00e9ho zbo\u017e\u00ed. Nedlouho na to sv\u016fj sortiment roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159il o cukroviny, koblihy a podobn\u00e9 peka\u0159sk\u00e9 v\u00fdrobky. Jeho syn necht\u011bl v tradici pokra\u010dovat a tak se rozhodl cukr\u00e1rnu prodat, a to roku 1857 sv\u00e9mu prvn\u00edmu asistentovi – Christophu Demelovi. Cukr\u00e1rna se v t\u00e9to rodin\u011b d\u011bdila po cel\u00e9 generace a tak je tomu a\u017e dodnes, kdy dal\u0161\u00ed potomek Christopha Demela vede t\u00e9\u017ee cukr\u00e1rnu, s t\u00edmt\u00e9\u017e sortimentem, kterou jeho p\u0159edem p\u0159ed lety zakoupil.<\/p>\n

Jsou to vlastn\u011b jen t\u0159i dny v roce, a p\u0159ece v sob\u011b skr\u00fdvaj\u00ed n\u011bco magick\u00e9ho. Pro n\u011bkoho znamenaj\u00ed kouzlo, t\u0159pyt a dlouh\u00e9 t\u011b\u0161en\u00ed, pro jin\u00e9ho koncentrovan\u00e9 utrpen\u00ed. T\u0159eba ze samoty, kter\u00e1 o V\u00e1noc\u00edch bol\u00ed v\u00edc ne\u017e kdy jindy\u2026<\/p>\n

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Zdroj:<\/strong> Tradi\u010dn\u00ed recepty na v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed cukrov\u00ed<\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

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 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

  P\u0159enesme <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":293909,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"gallery","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[111],"tags":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/12\/20\/ram-linecke.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/179969"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=179969"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/179969\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":293908,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/179969\/revisions\/293908"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/293909"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=179969"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=179969"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=179969"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}