{"id":179874,"date":"2020-12-22T20:04:05","date_gmt":"2020-12-22T19:04:05","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=179874"},"modified":"2020-12-22T22:48:55","modified_gmt":"2020-12-22T21:48:55","slug":"o-vanocnim-cukrovi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=179874","title":{"rendered":"STAR\u00c1 \u0160UMAVA: O v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edm cukrov\u00ed"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Doma v\u0161echno kr\u00e1sn\u011b von\u00ed<\/em>
\n a ta v\u016fn\u011b napov\u00ed,<\/em>
\n \u017ee V\u00e1noce p\u0159ich\u00e1zej\u00ed<\/em>
\n a pe\u010de se cukrov\u00ed.<\/em><\/p>\n

V\u0161ichni p\u0159i tom pom\u00e1haj\u00ed,<\/em>
\n von\u00ed cukrem, vanilkou,<\/em>
\n d\u011btem se pak ve\u010der sn\u00e1\u0161\u00ed<\/em>
\n zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed sen nad post\u00fdlkou:<\/em><\/p>\n

Na nebi, kde jindy sv\u00edt\u00ed m\u011bs\u00ed\u010dek,<\/em>
\n vis\u00ed b\u00edl\u00fd vanilkov\u00fd rohl\u00ed\u010dek,<\/em>
\n hv\u011bzdi\u010dky jsou ze z\u00e1zvorek, Ve\u010dernice z marcip\u00e1nu,<\/em>
\n v\u00edtr voz\u00ed cukrov\u00ed v o\u0159\u00ed\u0161kov\u00e9m eropl\u00e1nu…<\/em><\/p>\n

Vzpom\u00ednky na d\u011btstv\u00ed jsou spojeny s v\u016fn\u011bmi v\u00edc ne\u017e si uv\u011bdomujeme…… Vzpom\u00ednky na v\u016fn\u011b V\u00e1noc ze sv\u00e9ho d\u011btstv\u00ed si nese ka\u017ed\u00fd v sob\u011b. Je to pro n\u00e1s v\u016fn\u011b domova, bezpe\u010d\u00ed a bezstarostn\u00e9ho d\u011btstv\u00ed , kter\u00e9 bychom r\u00e1di p\u0159edali d\u00e1l nebo si ho alespo\u0148 jednou za rok p\u0159ipomn\u011bli.<\/h6>\n

Maminka zrovna vyndav\u00e1 z trouby \u010derstv\u011b upe\u010den\u00e9 cukrov\u00ed, ke kter\u00e9mu n\u00e1m u\u017e va\u0159\u00ed v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed \u010daj. Na plotn\u011b von\u00ed purpura a z rohu, kde stoj\u00ed v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed strome\u010dek, se line v\u016fn\u011b jehli\u010d\u00ed. Z v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edch dekorac\u00ed se do toho v\u0161eho m\u00eds\u00ed v\u016fn\u011b su\u0161en\u00e9ho pomeran\u010de, h\u0159eb\u00ed\u010dku a mnoho dal\u0161\u00edch v\u016fn\u00ed. P\u0159esn\u011b takhle von\u00ed V\u00e1noce. Je to ta v\u016fn\u011b, linouc\u00ed se po cel\u00e9m dom\u011b, mnoho zaj\u00edmav\u00fdch chut\u00ed? Nebo ta radost z toho, \u017ee m\u016f\u017eete upe\u010den\u00e9 cukrov\u00ed ochutnat z plechu jako prvn\u00ed?<\/p>\n

Vzpom\u00ednky na d\u011btstv\u00ed pat\u0159\u00ed k tomu nejkr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edmu, co v n\u00e1s nav\u017edycky z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1, p\u0159i\u010dem\u017e vzpom\u00ednky na V\u00e1noce jsou ty nejsiln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. A je \u00fapln\u011b jedno, v jak\u00fdch \u010dasech jsme je za\u017eili. D\u016fle\u017eit\u00e1 je atmosf\u00e9ra l\u00e1sky, rodinn\u00e9 pohody, soun\u00e1le\u017eitosti a z\u00e1zem\u00ed, kterou pak p\u0159en\u00e1\u0161\u00edme na sv\u00e9 d\u011bti a vnou\u010data, nebo ji vrac\u00edme sv\u00fdm zest\u00e1rl\u00fdm rodi\u010d\u016fm. V\u011bt\u0161inu star\u00fdch zvyk\u016f odv\u00e1l dech \u010dasu, ale laskav\u00e1 atmosf\u00e9ra z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1. A kdy\u017e n\u00e1m sv\u011bt tam venku p\u0159ipad\u00e1 chladn\u00fd, nevl\u00eddn\u00fd \u010di nep\u0159\u00e1telsk\u00fd, je to jistota vzpom\u00ednek, k n\u00ed\u017e se v\u017edycky m\u016f\u017eeme vr\u00e1tit…<\/p>\n

Stejn\u011b jako m\u00e1 svoji historii v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed stromek, kter\u00fd se u n\u00e1s poprv\u00e9 objevil na po\u010d\u00e1tku devaten\u00e1ct\u00e9ho stolet\u00ed, m\u00e1 podobnou historii i v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed cukrov\u00ed. Cukrov\u00ed se p\u0159ipravovalo k oslav\u00e1m nejsiln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed noci roku \u2013 tedy zimn\u00edho slunovratu. V tuto noc se p\u0159ipravovaly takzvan\u00e9 ob\u0159adn\u00ed pokrmy, kter\u00e9 m\u011bly slou\u017eit jako ochrana domu a rodiny p\u0159ed temn\u00fdmi silami.<\/p>\n

Cukrov\u00ed, jak ho zn\u00e1me dnes, nem\u00e1 a\u017e tak dlouhou tradici. V 19. stolet\u00ed se o V\u00e1noc\u00edch m\u00edsto rohl\u00ed\u010dk\u016f d\u011blaly t\u0159eba oplatky slazen\u00e9 medem. Vanilkov\u00e9 rohl\u00ed\u010dky nebo vos\u00ed hn\u00edzda se na v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed tabuli dostaly a\u017e o hodn\u011b pozd\u011bji a jemn\u00e9 druhy v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edho cukrov\u00ed se za\u010daly objevovat a\u017e v polovin\u011b 19. stolet\u00ed. Cukrov\u00ed v historii m\u011blo i ochran\u00e1\u0159skou funkci, m\u011blo chr\u00e1nit celou rodinu i hospod\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed p\u0159ed temn\u00fdmi silami a odtud poch\u00e1z\u00ed vykrajovan\u00e1 zv\u00ed\u0159\u00e1tka a postavi\u010dky. Vykrajovan\u00e1 zv\u00ed\u0159\u00e1tka m\u011bla chr\u00e1nit ta \u017eiv\u00e1 ve st\u00e1j\u00edch, aby se jim dob\u0159e da\u0159ilo, rodila zdrav\u00e1 ml\u00e1\u010fata a hospod\u00e1\u0159i z nich m\u011bli velk\u00fd u\u017eitek. Dal\u0161\u00ed tvary odkazovaly nap\u0159\u00edklad na podobu ritu\u00e1ln\u00edch zv\u00ed\u0159at.<\/p>\n

Tradovalo se, \u017ee cukrov\u00ed ve tvaru zv\u00ed\u0159ete p\u0159enese na obdarovan\u00e9ho s\u00edlu a vlastnosti toho dan\u00e9ho zv\u00ed\u0159ete. Jak\u00e1koliv \u010dinnost spojen\u00e1 s n\u011bjak\u00fdm sv\u00e1tkem v\u011bt\u0161inou prov\u00e1zela pov\u011bra. Cukrov\u00ed ve tvaru kruhu pro zm\u011bnu symbolizovalo Slunce. V\u011b\u0161elo se na domy a ovocn\u00e9 stromy. Cukrov\u00ed se dle tradice peklo z mouky, pokud mo\u017eno z vlastn\u00ed \u00farody, aby v p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00edm roce p\u0159i\u0161la tak\u00e9 vysok\u00e1 \u00faroda. T\u011bsto se z rukou m\u011blo ot\u00edrat o stromy a zbyl\u00e1 voda z t\u011bsta se lila do koryta hov\u011bz\u00edmu dobytku, aby samci byli plodn\u00ed, kr\u00e1vy a kozy dob\u0159e dojily.
\nTakov\u00e9 druhy, jak je zn\u00e1me dnes, si ale zdaleka nemohl dop\u0159\u00e1t ka\u017ed\u00fd. V t\u00e9 dob\u011b si na nich pochutn\u00e1vala jen \u0161lechta a m\u011b\u0161\u0165an\u00e9. Na venkov\u011b, kde byli lid\u00e9 chud\u0161\u00ed se mlsalo p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm su\u0161en\u00e9 ovoce nebo o\u0159echy. Je\u0161t\u011b na konci 19. stolet\u00ed bylo pro \u0161irokou vrstvu lid\u00ed cukrov\u00ed n\u00e1kladnou z\u00e1le\u017eitost\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Cukr byl drah\u00fd, existovalo m\u00e1lo cukrovar\u016f, t\u0159tinov\u00fd cukr byl n\u00e1kladn\u00fd a \u0159epn\u00e9ho bylo m\u00e1lo. M\u00edsto cukru venkovan\u00e9 pou\u017e\u00edvali med, kter\u00e9ho bylo dostatek. A\u017e ve 20. stolet\u00ed se za\u010daly p\u00e9ct r\u016fzn\u00e9 druhy cukrov\u00ed ve v\u0161ech rodin\u00e1ch, jako je tomu dnes. A odkud se vzaly n\u011bkter\u00e9 tvary cukrov\u00ed? Je\u0161t\u011b d\u00e1vno p\u0159ed t\u00edm, ne\u017e za\u010dali k\u0159es\u0165an\u00e9 slavit V\u00e1noce, v\u00edtali pohan\u00e9 ob\u0159adn\u00edmi ritu\u00e1ly zimn\u00ed slunovrat. A\u017e do t\u00e9to doby sahaj\u00ed ko\u0159eny kulat\u00fdch tvar\u016f n\u011bkter\u00e9ho pe\u010diva a tak\u00e9 cukrov\u00ed. Ve m\u011bstech se tak\u00e9 objevovaly tzv. med\u00e1ky, pe\u010den\u00e9 placky ze sm\u011bsi medu, cukru, vajec, m\u00e1sla, ml\u00e9ka a mouky, kter\u00e9 se pot\u00edraly \u010dokol\u00e1dovou polevou. Na vesnic\u00edch se naopak peklo \u0161kvarkov\u00e9 cukrov\u00ed. Ti chud\u0161\u00ed se tomu ale cht\u011bli p\u0159ibl\u00ed\u017eit, a tak vyr\u00e1b\u011bli cukrov\u00ed t\u0159eba z pep\u0159e nebo \u010desneku – zkr\u00e1tka z toho, co m\u011bli po ruce.<\/p>\n

D\u0159\u00edve se na sv\u00e1tky pekly kol\u00e1\u010de, kter\u00e9 se rozd\u00e1valy koledn\u00edk\u016fm \u2013 pr\u00e1v\u011b v tom kulat\u00e9m tvaru, symbolizuj\u00edc\u00ed slunce. Pokud se cukrov\u00ed p\u0159ip\u00e1l\u00ed nebo poprask\u00e1, je to \u0161patn\u00e1 zpr\u00e1va. Rodinu m\u016f\u017ee potkat ne\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed nebo smrt n\u011bkter\u00e9ho \u010dlena. Ka\u017ed\u00e1 hospodyn\u011b by m\u011bla up\u00e9ct sedm druh\u016f cukrov\u00ed. Neznamen\u00e1 to nejm\u00e9n\u011b, ale pr\u00e1v\u011b sedm, proto\u017ee to bylo a st\u00e1le je jedno z magick\u00fdch \u010d\u00edsel, a to \u0161\u0165astn\u00e9. Na \u0161t\u011bdrove\u010dern\u00edm stole m\u011blo b\u00fdt dev\u011bt druh\u016f pokrm\u016f. A o slunovratu, stejn\u011b jako o V\u00e1noc\u00edch, a to po v\u0161echny dny trv\u00e1n\u00ed sv\u00e1tk\u016f, nem\u011bl \u017e\u00e1dn\u00fd n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk odej\u00edt z domu s pr\u00e1zdnou, bez v\u00fdslu\u017eky. Z t\u011bsta se sl\u00e9vala voda, kter\u00e1 se pod\u00e1vala krav\u00e1m, aby v dal\u0161\u00edm roce hojn\u011b dojily. Stejn\u011b tak zbytky ze \u0161t\u011bdrove\u010dern\u00edho stolu se v\u017edy d\u00e1valy zv\u00ed\u0159at\u016fm a ke strom\u016fm v zahrad\u011b, aby p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00ed rok plodily.<\/p>\n

D\u0159\u00edve nebylo vrcholem mls\u00e1n\u00ed cukrov\u00ed, ale chleba. O v\u00e1noc\u00edch se pekl i speci\u00e1ln\u00ed chl\u00e9b ke kter\u00e9mu se vztahovalo nejv\u00edce zvyk\u016f a pov\u011bre\u010dn\u00fdch praktik. Z chleba se v\u011b\u0161tila budoucnost k zaji\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed dobr\u00e9 \u00farody v p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00edm roce, nebo byl tak\u00e9 darem zem\u0159el\u00fdch. Na\u0161i p\u0159edci si ho v\u00e1\u017eili natolik, \u017ee v\u011b\u0159ili, \u017ee pokud se p\u0159ip\u00e1l\u00ed nebo roztrhne, nev\u011bst\u00ed to na p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00ed rok nic dobr\u00e9ho. Do v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edho chleba se zap\u00e9kal hr\u00e1\u0161ek, mandle nebo pen\u00edze a kdo jej na\u0161el, \u010dekalo ho v p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u00edm roce bohatstv\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Vedle tradi\u010dn\u00edho cukrov\u00ed pat\u0159\u00ed k V\u00e1noc\u016fm tak\u00e9 adventn\u00ed \u0161toly a v\u00e1no\u010dky, jejich\u017e tvar symbolizuje Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161k\u016fv povijan. Uv\u00e1d\u00ed se, \u017ee adventn\u00ed \u0161toly poch\u00e1z\u00ed ze st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00fdch kl\u00e1\u0161ter\u016f, ze kter\u00fdch vze\u0161el tak\u00e9 zvyk pod\u00e1vat cukrov\u00ed a v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed pe\u010divo k uct\u011bn\u00ed pam\u00e1tky narozen\u00ed Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161e Krista. D\u0159\u00edve se pekla i nezapleten\u00e1 a \u0159\u00edkalo se j\u00ed \u201ch\u00fasce\u201d. Vyvinula se z b\u00edl\u00e9ho ob\u0159adn\u00edho chleba. Na konci 19. stolet\u00ed se za\u010dal objevovat jablkov\u00fd z\u00e1vin. Ten se dochoval v mnoha rodin\u00e1ch o V\u00e1noc\u00edch dodnes. Co u\u017e ze sv\u00e1te\u010dn\u00ed tabule vymizelo, jsou pe\u010den\u00e9 oplatky, kter\u00e9 se pol\u00e9valy medem. N\u011bkde se tak\u00e9 d\u011blaly l\u00edvance nebo \u0161vestkov\u00e9 knedl\u00edky. Na \u0160t\u011bdr\u00fd den byl obl\u00edben\u00fd z\u00e1kusek \u201cmuzika\u201d, co\u017e byla sm\u011bs su\u0161en\u00e9ho ovoce, strouhan\u00e9ho pern\u00edku a o\u0159ech\u016f.<\/p>\n

Tradi\u010dn\u00edm v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edm pe\u010divem jsou i dnes pern\u00ed\u010dky. Prvn\u00ed pern\u00edka\u0159i se v \u010cech\u00e1ch za\u010dali objevovat u\u017e ve 14. stolet\u00ed. N\u00e1zev pern\u00edky dostaly od slova pep\u0159, ten se toti\u017e s dal\u0161\u00edm ko\u0159en\u00edm do t\u011bsta p\u0159im\u00edch\u00e1val. Pern\u00edkov\u00e9 t\u011bsto se sladilo medem a vtla\u010dovalo do d\u0159ev\u011bn\u00fdch formi\u010dek r\u016fzn\u00fdch tvar\u016f. Soumrak nad zlatou dobou pern\u00edku p\u0159ich\u00e1z\u00ed a\u017e ve druh\u00e9 polovin\u011b 19. stolet\u00ed, kdy je pern\u00edk\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 \u0159emeslo nuceno ustoupit \u0159emeslu cukr\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9mu, kter\u00e9 za\u017e\u00edvalo v tomto obdob\u00ed sv\u016fj velk\u00fd rozmach d\u00edky rozvoji cukrovarnictv\u00ed, popularit\u011b kakaa a \u010dokol\u00e1dy, a tak\u00e9 d\u00edky sv\u00e9 rozmanitosti. Cukr\u00e1\u0159i nab\u00edzeli \u0161ir\u0161\u00ed a l\u00e1kav\u011bj\u0161\u00ed sortiment v\u00fdrobk\u016f. Mnoh\u00e9 pern\u00edk\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 d\u00edlny tak byly p\u0159ed\u011bl\u00e1ny na d\u00edlny cukr\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 a po\u010d\u00e1tkem 20. stolet\u00ed pern\u00edk\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 \u0159emeslo jako samostatn\u00e1 \u017eivnost zanik\u00e1 docela.<\/p>\n

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Zdroj: <\/strong>Lifestyle Barbara Lorenzov\u00e1 – Tradi\u010dn\u00ed recepty na v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed cukrov\u00ed, B\u00e1sni\u010dky a \u0159\u00edkadla na zimu<\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

(Z cyklu Star\u00e1 \u0160umava)<\/em><\/p>\n

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