{"id":178918,"date":"2020-12-13T15:04:27","date_gmt":"2020-12-13T14:04:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=178918"},"modified":"2020-12-13T15:04:27","modified_gmt":"2020-12-13T14:04:27","slug":"stara-sumava-pribeh-bramboroveho-salatu","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=178918","title":{"rendered":"STAR\u00c1 \u0160UMAVA: P\u0159\u00edb\u011bh bramborov\u00e9ho sal\u00e1tu"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Od A\u0161e po Ostravu se v\u0161ichni shodneme na tom, \u017ee ke \u0161t\u011bdrove\u010dern\u00edmu kaprovi pat\u0159\u00ed bramborov\u00fd sal\u00e1t. T\u00edm ov\u0161em jednota n\u00e1zor\u016f kon\u010d\u00ed. O tom, jak m\u00e1 sal\u00e1t vypadat a co do n\u011bj d\u00e1t, se vedou v n\u011bkter\u00fdch rodin\u00e1ch v\u00e1\u0161niv\u00e9 debaty. Zda do sal\u00e1tu pat\u0159\u00ed hr\u00e1\u0161ek nebo kr\u00e1jen\u00fd sal\u00e1m, n\u00e1s dok\u00e1\u017ee zam\u011bstnat na dlouh\u00e9 hodiny a nez\u0159\u00eddka se pak v den D mus\u00ed p\u0159ipravovat v\u00edce variant, aby se uspokojily v\u0161echny chut\u011b. S bramborov\u00fdm sal\u00e1tem je to jako s gul\u00e1\u0161em. Ka\u017ed\u00fd p\u0159\u00edsah\u00e1, \u017ee jeho recept je ten nejlep\u0161\u00ed, proto\u017ee obsahuje tajnou a dokonale promy\u0161lenou ingredienci. Takovou, kterou tam nikdo jin\u00fd nep\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1.<\/h6>\n

Kde se tenhle symbol V\u00e1noc vzal? D\u0159\u00edv se slo\u017een\u00ed m\u011bnilo podle finan\u010dn\u00edch mo\u017enost\u00ed, dnes sp\u00ed\u0161 podle tradice a chuti. Mo\u017en\u00e1 za bramborov\u00fdm sal\u00e1tem \u017e\u00e1dn\u00e1 u\u0161lechtilost a noblesa nen\u00ed a je to zkr\u00e1tka jen sal\u00e1t. V\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed \u010das v\u0161ak p\u0159eje romantick\u00fdm p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh\u016fm, tak pro\u010d si nedop\u0159\u00e1t i ten bramborov\u00fd. P\u0159\u00e1telstv\u00ed bramborov\u00e9ho sal\u00e1tu se sma\u017een\u00fdm \u0159\u00edzkem je omezeno na p\u0159edeh\u0159\u00e1t\u00fd tal\u00ed\u0159. B\u011bhem sv\u00e9ho kr\u00e1tk\u00e9ho setk\u00e1n\u00ed vytv\u00e1\u0159ej\u00ed nekone\u010dn\u011b harmonick\u00e9 spojen\u00ed barevn\u00e9ho chladu a hork\u00e9 k\u0159ehkosti, sd\u00edlej\u00ed s n\u00e1mi vz\u00e1jemnost, aby ve fin\u00e1le i oni dostali p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitost setkat se spole\u010dn\u011b v na\u0161ich chu\u0165ov\u00fdch poh\u00e1rc\u00edch. Bramborov\u00fd sal\u00e1t nem\u016f\u017ee m\u00edt del\u0161\u00ed tradici, ne\u017e m\u00e1, nebo\u0165 teprve v devaten\u00e1ct\u00e9m stolet\u00ed se objevil vedle dal\u0161\u00edch p\u0159evratn\u00fdch vyn\u00e1lez\u016f i objev p\u0159\u00edlohy k masu.
\nNicm\u00e9n\u011b nebylo tomu tak v\u017edy.<\/p>\n

A\u017e do poloviny 20. stolet\u00ed bylo na \u0160t\u011bdr\u00fd ve\u010der zejm\u00e9na v \u0161umavsk\u00e9m pohrani\u010d\u00ed obl\u00edben\u00e9 uzen\u00e9 maso a bramborov\u00e9 knedl\u00edky s povidlovou om\u00e1\u010dkou. Jak vlastn\u011b vznikl bramborov\u00fd sal\u00e1t? A jak spletit\u00e1 byla jeho cesta na v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed tabule? Tento zvyk se k n\u00e1m dostal pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b z V\u00eddn\u011b, kde se sal\u00e1t k pe\u010den\u00e9mu kapru objevuje p\u0159i \u0161t\u011bdrove\u010dern\u00ed ve\u010de\u0159i u\u017e kolem roku 1900. Ko\u0159eny \u201e\u010desk\u00e9ho bramborov\u00e9ho sal\u00e1tu\u201c sahaj\u00ed do carsk\u00e9ho Ruska poloviny 19. stolet\u00ed. V t\u00e9 dob\u011b v Moskv\u011b fungovala luxusn\u00ed restaurace Hermitage s belgick\u00fdm \u0161\u00e9fkucha\u0159em Lucienem Olivierem. Ten pro sv\u00e9 z\u00e1kazn\u00edky z vybran\u00e9 spole\u010dnosti za\u010dal p\u0159ipravovat speci\u00e1ln\u00ed pokrm z va\u0159en\u00fdch brambor, majon\u00e9zy, va\u0159en\u00fdch vajec, kysel\u00fdch okurek a dal\u0161\u00edch vz\u00e1cn\u00fdch ingredienc\u00ed. Mezi n\u011b pat\u0159ily k\u0159epelky, aspik, raci, uzen\u00fd jazyk a tak\u00e9 kavi\u00e1r. Vzhledem k obsahu drah\u00fdch p\u0159\u00edsad byla cena pokrmu vysok\u00e1 a mohli si jej dovolit jen ti nejbohat\u0161\u00ed. \u0160\u00e9fkucha\u0159 nikdy neprozradil recept na svou majon\u00e9zu a ostatn\u00ed kucha\u0159i se jen mohli dohadovat, co do n\u00ed vlastn\u011b d\u00e1v\u00e1.<\/p>\n

V roce 1883 Lucien Olivier zem\u0159el, jeho rodina ode\u0161la z Ruska na za\u010d\u00e1tku 20. stolet\u00ed a recept na \u201erusk\u00fd bramborov\u00fd sal\u00e1t\u201c vzala sebou. Sal\u00e1t pod n\u00e1zvem rusk\u00fd se tak dostal do \u0161pan\u011blsk\u00e9, francouzsk\u00e9, ale i italsk\u00e9 kuchyn\u011b. Vzhledem k cen\u00e1m n\u011bkter\u00fdch surovin se ale p\u016fvodn\u00ed receptura m\u011bnila s ohledem na finan\u010dn\u00ed mo\u017enosti t\u011bch, kte\u0159\u00ed jej p\u0159ipravovali.<\/p>\n

Kdy se bramborov\u00fd sal\u00e1t objevil u n\u00e1s? Podle n\u011bkter\u00fdch pramen\u016f se k n\u00e1m dostal spolu s rusk\u00fdmi emigranty za prvn\u00ed republiky, jin\u00e9 v\u0161ak uv\u00e1d\u011bj\u00ed, \u017ee p\u0159iputoval a\u017e s Rudou arm\u00e1dou na konci druh\u00e9 sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lky. Tehdy byl ale zn\u00e1m s kousky nalo\u017een\u00e9ho kysel\u00e9ho sled\u011b. Prvn\u00ed n\u00e1znak pokrmu, kter\u00fd dostal pojmenov\u00e1n\u00ed bramborov\u00fd sal\u00e1t, se d\u00e1 vy\u010d\u00edst ze slavn\u00e9 Dom\u00e1c\u00ed kucha\u0159ky Magdaleny Dobromily Rettigov\u00e9 z roku 1826, kde najdeme recept na \u201eM\u00edchan\u00fd sal\u00e1t zem\u010d\u00e1tkov\u00fd\u201c. Tak\u00e9 se mohl jmenovat “Zbytkov\u00fd sal\u00e1t” proto\u017ee recept zn\u00ed:”Po n\u011bjak\u00e9 tabuli, kdy\u017e jsou rozli\u010dn\u00e9 zbytky, kup\u0159. studen\u00e1 telec\u00ed pe\u010den\u011b, uzen\u00fd jazyk, \u0161unka, kapouni, i t\u0159eba koroptve….” Zbytky nakr\u00e1jen\u00e9 na mal\u00e9 kousky doporu\u010dovala Rettigov\u00e1 sm\u00edchat s majon\u00e9zou, za tepla pokr\u00e1jen\u00fdmi bramborami a cibul\u00ed. Z\u0159ejm\u011b se pak \u010dasto p\u0159ipravoval jako j\u00eddlo vyu\u017e\u00edvan\u00e9 ke zpracov\u00e1n\u00ed zbytk\u016f v pr\u016fb\u011bhu cel\u00e9ho roku s dopln\u011bn\u00edm sez\u00f3nn\u00edch p\u0159\u00edsad. Historickou jistotu v\u0161ak nebudeme m\u00edt nikdy. Pot\u0159ebujeme ji ale? Stejn\u011b si ka\u017ed\u00e1 rodina d\u011bl\u00e1 sv\u016fj origin\u00e1ln\u00ed bramborov\u00fd sal\u00e1t.<\/p>\n

V kucha\u0159ce z roku 1946 nach\u00e1z\u00edme recept pom\u011brn\u011b podobn\u00fd \u2013 ov\u0161em bez ko\u0159enov\u00e9 zeleniny. Obsahoval u\u017e i tehdy zn\u00e1mou pochutinu, kter\u00e1 u\u010dinila b\u011bhem v\u00e1lky z bramborov\u00e9ho sal\u00e1tu luxusn\u00ed j\u00eddlo \u2013 tedy majon\u00e9zu. Majon\u00e9za, kr\u00e1lovna studen\u00fdch om\u00e1\u010dek. Psal se rok 1756 a francouzsk\u00fd v\u00e9voda Richelieu porazil britsk\u00e9 vojsko u Port Mahonu na ostrov\u011b Menorka. Jeho \u0161\u00e9fkucha\u0159 tehdy na oslavu v\u00edt\u011bzstv\u00ed p\u0159ipravil hostinu, na kter\u00e9 se m\u011bla pod\u00e1vat i studen\u00e1 om\u00e1\u010dka ze smetany a vajec. Smetana v\u0161ak v kuchyni v poln\u00edm le\u017een\u00ed do\u0161la, a tak ji \u0161\u00e9fkucha\u0159 z nouze nahradil olejem. A bylo to: mahon\u00e9zsk\u00e1 (majon\u00e9zsk\u00e1) om\u00e1\u010dka byla na sv\u011bt\u011b. Francouz\u016fm majon\u00e9za zachutnala a brzy se roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159ila do cel\u00e9ho sv\u011bta. S majon\u00e9zou experimentovali op\u011bt francouz\u0161t\u00ed kucha\u0159i. Do majon\u00e9zy p\u0159idali sterilovan\u00e9 kysel\u00e9 okurky, \u010desnek, cibuli, pa\u017eitku, petr\u017eel, estragon, \u0161alotku, kapary, s\u016fl a pep\u0159 a vytvo\u0159ili tzv. tatarskou om\u00e1\u010dku (tartar souce).<\/p>\n

Zdroj: Staro\u010desk\u00fd bramborov\u00fd sal\u00e1t Marie Jank\u016f-Sandtnerov\u00e1<\/strong><\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

(Z cyklu Star\u00e1 \u0160umava)<\/p>\n

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