{"id":177502,"date":"2025-01-25T22:18:18","date_gmt":"2025-01-25T21:18:18","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=177502"},"modified":"2025-01-25T22:18:18","modified_gmt":"2025-01-25T21:18:18","slug":"z-archivu-a-kronik-uzene-neodolatelny-pozitek-z-vune-koure","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=177502","title":{"rendered":"Z ARCHIV\u016e A KRONIK: Uzen\u00e9, neodolateln\u00fd po\u017eitek z v\u016fn\u011b kou\u0159e"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Snad ka\u017ed\u00e9ho chlapa zvedne ze \u017eidle v\u016fn\u011b uzen\u00e9ho masa. V m\u00fdch vzpom\u00ednk\u00e1ch dominuje n\u011bkolik v\u00fdrazn\u00fdch chut\u00ed a v\u016fn\u00ed, kter\u00e9 mne pak doprov\u00e1zej\u00ed cel\u00fdm \u017eivotem. Jednou z nich je chu\u0165 a v\u016fn\u011b \u0161unky z kom\u00edna. Ka\u017ed\u00e9 ro\u010dn\u00ed dob\u011b krom\u011b surovin, kter\u00e9 pr\u00e1v\u011b dozr\u00e1vaj\u00ed na poli \u010di v zahrad\u011b, slu\u0161\u00ed r\u016fzn\u00e9 kucha\u0159sk\u00e9 postupy.<\/h6>\n

Uzen\u00ed je jedn\u00edm z t\u011bch, kter\u00e9 p\u0159ich\u00e1zej\u00ed ke slovu ve chv\u00edli, kdy ze strom\u016f opad\u00e1 posledn\u00ed list\u00ed. Lahodn\u00e1 v\u016fn\u011b uzen\u00e9ho masa n\u00e1s prov\u00e1z\u00ed po cel\u00fd \u017eivot. Chu\u0165 uzen\u00e9ho masa, ale p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm jeho v\u016fn\u011b je alchymii ka\u017ed\u00e9ho \u0159ezn\u00edka. V\u016fn\u011b kou\u0159e prostupuj\u00edc\u00ed masem v n\u00e1s evokuje n\u011bco prad\u00e1vn\u00e9ho. P\u0159en\u00e1\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1s do dob otev\u0159en\u00fdch oh\u0148\u016f, oblohy pln\u00e9 hv\u011bzd a pomalu plynouc\u00edho \u010dasu. A pr\u00e1vem.<\/p>\n

U n\u00e1s tvo\u0159ilo od konce 13.stolet\u00ed uzen\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 a \u0159eznick\u00e9 \u0159emeslo spole\u010dn\u00fd cech. Bylo to logick\u00e9, nebo\u0165 uzen\u00edm se zpracov\u00e1valo p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm maso. \u0158ezn\u00edci toti\u017e pot\u0159ebovali sv\u00e9 v\u00fdrobky uchov\u00e1vat del\u0161\u00ed \u010das bez po\u0161kozen\u00ed. Podle dochovan\u00fdch historick\u00fdch zpr\u00e1v se ji\u017e ve 14.stolet\u00ed z \u010cech vyv\u00e1\u017eelo uzen\u00e9 maso, jeho\u017e v\u00fdrobou se zab\u00fdvali tehdej\u0161\u00ed \u0159ezn\u00edci-uzen\u00e1\u0159i. Po celou dobu trv\u00e1n\u00ed \u0159eznick\u00fdch cech\u016f a je\u0161t\u011b i po vyd\u00e1n\u00ed nov\u00e9ho \u017eivnostensk\u00e9ho \u0159\u00e1du bylo uzen\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed st\u00e1le spojeno s \u0159eznictv\u00edm.<\/p>\n

A\u017e roku 1873 se v Praze utvo\u0159ilo prvn\u00ed samostatn\u00e9 spole\u010denstvo uzen\u00e1\u0159\u016f. V dal\u00ad\u0161\u00edch letech pak rostl po\u010det uzen\u00e1\u0159sk\u00fdch spole\u010denstev nejen v Praze samotn\u00e9, ale i v ostatn\u00edch m\u011bstech. \u0158ezn\u00edci a uzen\u00e1\u0159i se t\u011b\u0161\u00edvali dobr\u00e9 pov\u011bsti, \u0161lo o lidi majetn\u00e9. Z\u0159\u00edzen\u00ed kr\u00e1m\u016f a d\u00edlen st\u00e1lo jm\u011bn\u00ed. K masn\u00e9mu kr\u00e1mu pat\u0159il sklep, chlazen\u00fd p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00edm ledem. Mistr boural maso a vyr\u00e1b\u011bl uzeniny, mistrov\u00e1 prod\u00e1vala v kr\u00e1m\u011b \u010derstv\u00e9 zbo\u017e\u00ed. M\u011bla otev\u0159eno od r\u00e1na do ve\u010dera v\u010detn\u011b ned\u011bl\u00ed.<\/p>\n

V kr\u00e1mech se prod\u00e1valo jen n\u011bkolik druh\u016f zbo\u017e\u00ed<\/h6>\n

Do vep\u0159ov\u00fdch \u017ealudk\u016f se p\u011bchovaly presvu\u0159ty, tmav\u00e9 tla\u010denky z vep\u0159ov\u00fdch hlav a tu\u010dn\u00e9ho masa s krv\u00ed. Ze sal\u00e1m\u016f se d\u00e1val do m\u011bch\u00fd\u0159\u016f tzv. \u201edr\u00e1tenick\u00fd\u201c, kter\u00fd st\u00e1l m\u00e9n\u011b, nebo\u0165 maso nahrazovaly vep\u0159ov\u00e9 k\u016f\u017ee a tlust\u00e9 boky. Na pultech le\u017eel pyramidov\u011b slo\u017een\u00fd nakr\u00e1jen\u00fd polsk\u00fd sal\u00e1m a pra\u017esk\u00fd sal\u00e1m, kter\u00fd se prod\u00e1val v hov\u011bz\u00edch j\u00edcnech. Sortiment dopl\u0148ovaly \u0161pek\u00e1\u010dky, vu\u0159ty a p\u00e1rky. Uzen\u00e1\u0159i pracovali zprvu jen sek\u00e1\u010dky a no\u017ei, pozd\u011bji kol\u00edbac\u00edmi no\u017ei. Sm\u011bs nar\u00e1\u017eeli do st\u0159ev ru\u010dn\u011b, tzv. \u201ena prsty\u201c.<\/p>\n

V\u00fdroba \u0161unky m\u00e1 dlouhou tradici<\/h6>\n

Byli to pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b Keltov\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed zavedli kulturu \u0161unky, nebo l\u00e9pe \u0159e\u010deno tradici solit vep\u0159ov\u00e9 maso, a tak ho konzervovat na del\u0161\u00ed dobu. Tak\u00e9 \u0158\u00edman\u00e9, pov\u011bstn\u00ed dobyvatel\u00e9, milovali odle\u017eelou \u0161unku, i kdy\u017e pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b za jejich \u010das\u016f byla mnohem v\u00edce slan\u00e1 ne\u017e ta dne\u0161n\u00ed. Censor Cat\u00f3n, kter\u00fd \u017eil ve druh\u00e9m tis\u00edcilet\u00ed p\u0159ed Kristem, vypr\u00e1v\u00ed o velice chutn\u00e9 konzervaci prase\u010d\u00edch k\u00fdt, kter\u00e9 se v jeho dob\u011b prosolovaly, d\u00e1le osou\u0161ely a pak lehce pot\u00edraly olejem.<\/p>\n

Tak\u00e9 Marco Terenzio Varrone, kter\u00fd \u017eil v prvn\u00edm tis\u00edcilet\u00ed p\u0159ed Kristem, ve sv\u00e9m d\u00edle \u201eDe re rustica\u201c p\u0159edstavuje Galy (kte\u0159\u00ed vlastn\u011b poch\u00e1zej\u00ed z Kelt\u016f) jako nejv\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed odborn\u00edky na zpracov\u00e1n\u00ed a konzervaci vep\u0159ov\u00e9ho masa.<\/p>\n

Anglick\u00fd spisovatel John Dancer, zn\u00e1m\u00fd historik \u0159\u00edmsk\u00e9ho obdob\u00ed tvrd\u00ed, \u017ee po v\u00edt\u011bzn\u00e9 bitv\u011b na b\u0159ez\u00edch Trebbie v roce 217 p\u0159ed Kristem slavn\u00fd vojev\u016fdce Kart\u00e1ga Hanibal vstoupil do Parmy, kde byl oslavov\u00e1n jako osvoboditel. Uspo\u0159\u00e1dat p\u0159i t\u00e9to p\u0159\u00edle\u017eitosti banket, v zim\u011b a p\u0159i pov\u00e1le\u010dn\u00e9m rabov\u00e1n\u00ed prchaj\u00edc\u00edch \u0158\u00edman\u016f, se zd\u00e1lo t\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 nemo\u017en\u00e9. Vypr\u00e1v\u00ed se ale, \u017ee vesni\u010dan\u00e9 vyt\u00e1hli ze sv\u00fdch tajn\u00fdch skr\u00fd\u0161\u00ed sudy s vep\u0159ov\u00fdm nasolen\u00fdm masem. Slavn\u00fd vojev\u016fdce pr\u00fd velice ocenil tuto vo\u0148avou potravinu.<\/p>\n

Tak\u00e9 podle n\u00e1dhern\u00fdch basreli\u00e9f\u016f na vstupn\u00edch dve\u0159\u00edch Remesk\u00e9 katedr\u00e1ly m\u016f\u017eeme pochopit, \u017ee Galov\u00e9 znali velmi dob\u0159e um\u011bn\u00ed konzervace a uzen\u00ed vep\u0159ov\u00e9ho masa. A op\u011bt se vrac\u00edme ke star\u00fdm \u0158\u00edman\u016fm \u2013 p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b v roce 85 byla zalo\u017eena osada s \u0159\u00edmskou vojenskou pos\u00e1dkou u Chiemsk\u00e9ho jezera pobl\u00ed\u017e dne\u0161n\u00edho m\u011bsta Seebruck. Voj\u00e1ci zde postavili su\u0161\u00e1rny na obil\u00ed, a proto\u017ee v jeze\u0159e a v \u0159ece Alz \u017eilo hodn\u011b ryb, za\u010dali su\u0161\u00e1rny vyu\u017e\u00edvat i k su\u0161en\u00ed ryb. Dodnes jsou zde kamenn\u00e9 ud\u00edrny nejen k vid\u011bn\u00ed, ale ob\u010das se zde pro n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edky st\u00e1le ud\u00ed stejn\u00fdm zp\u016fsobem jako p\u0159ed skoro dv\u011bma tis\u00edci lety. Od star\u00fdch \u0158\u00edman\u016f poch\u00e1z\u00ed recept na prvn\u00ed uzenky, zvan\u00e9 luk\u00e1nsk\u00e9, proto\u017ee jejich recept p\u0159inesli do \u0158\u00edma voj\u00e1ci z Luk\u00e1nie, zem\u011b na jihu It\u00e1lie u Tyrh\u00e9nsk\u00e9ho mo\u0159e.<\/p>\n

Tali\u00e1n neboli u\u017eovka<\/h6>\n

Kolem roku 1900 se do Prahy p\u0159ist\u011bhoval italsk\u00fd \u0159ezn\u00edk jm\u00e9nem Ugg\u00e9. Usadil se v Rybn\u00e9 ulici a za\u010dal vyr\u00e1b\u011bt nov\u00fd druh zbo\u017e\u00ed. Vep\u0159ov\u00e9 a telec\u00ed kosti\u010dky masa plnil do hov\u011bz\u00edch st\u0159ev a zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u011b ko\u0159enil. Pochoutku neudil, n\u00fdbr\u017e na dva dny nakl\u00e1dal do vep\u0159ov\u00e9ho l\u00e1ku. Pak ji prudce pova\u0159il a je\u0161t\u011b n\u011bkolik hodin p\u0159i ni\u017e\u0161\u00ed teplot\u011b dova\u0159oval. Stogramov\u00e9 v\u00fdrobky dvojit\u011b p\u0159evazoval provazem. Specialita nem\u011bla n\u00e1zev a \u0161la na dra\u010dku. Pra\u017ean\u00e9 ji jmenovali \u201eu\u017eovka\u201c a \u201etali\u00e1n\u201c, druh\u00fd n\u00e1zev se udr\u017eel. Ugg\u00e9 se sna\u017eil uchovat v\u00fdrobn\u00ed tajemstv\u00ed, ale proto\u017ee nem\u011bl tali\u00e1ny chr\u00e1n\u011bn\u00e9 patentem, konkurence je za\u010dala vyr\u00e1b\u011bt tak\u00e9. Ugg\u00e9 prod\u00e1val kus za dvan\u00e1ct krejcar\u016f, ostatn\u00ed po deseti krejcarech.<\/p>\n

Pra\u017esk\u00e1 \u0161unka od kosti<\/h6>\n

\u0160unka se v \u010desk\u00fdch zem\u00edch p\u016fvodn\u011b vyr\u00e1b\u011bla jako ostatn\u00ed uzen\u00e1 a va\u0159en\u00e1 masa. Uzen\u00e1\u0159 zpravidla rozd\u011blil k\u00fdtu na t\u0159i \u010d\u00e1sti, nasolil ji, nalo\u017eil do l\u00e1ku a lehce zaudil. Kolem roku 1857 nechal pra\u017esk\u00fd uzen\u00e1\u0159 Franti\u0161ek Zv\u011b\u0159ina prole\u017eet celou k\u00fdtu i s kost\u00ed. Dozlatova vyuzen\u00e1 \u0161\u0165avnat\u00e1 pochoutka, kryt\u00e1 \u010d\u00e1ste\u010dn\u011b k\u016f\u017e\u00ed a tenkou vrstvou jemn\u00e9ho tuku, se na trhu za\u010dala okam\u017eit\u011b prosazovat.<\/p>\n

Mnoz\u00ed v\u00fdrobci si pra\u017eskou \u0161unkou od kosti ud\u011blali jm\u00e9no. V Praze to byli Chmel, Dlouh\u00fd, Mal\u00fd a Cibulka, Jebav\u00fd v Brn\u011b, Sochor v Pardubic\u00edch, Hutla v Hradci Kr\u00e1lov\u00e9. Pra\u017esk\u00e1 \u0161unka pronikala do Rakouska, Ma\u010farska, Francie a N\u011bmecka. Nejzn\u00e1m\u011bj\u0161\u00edm mistrem uzen\u00e1\u0159em, kter\u00fd p\u0159ipravoval \u0161unku a obchodoval s n\u00ed, byl Anton\u00edn Chmel v Praze U Zvona\u0159ky. Za\u010dal s jedn\u00edm \u0159ezn\u00edkem roku 1879. Podnik prosperoval a roku 1898 vyrostla na m\u00edst\u011b dvou dom\u016f se star\u00fdmi provozy modern\u00ed t\u0159\u00edpatrov\u00e1 budova. Na konci dvac\u00e1t\u00fdch let Chmelova firma zam\u011bstn\u00e1vala 250 lid\u00ed. \u0160unku vyv\u00e1\u017eela nejen do cel\u00e9 Evropy, ale tak\u00e9 do Spojen\u00fdch st\u00e1t\u016f. Po roce 1948 komunisti z\u00e1vod p\u0159evzali. Neprod\u00e1vali u\u017e maso s kost\u00ed, za\u010dali \u0161unku plnit do vej\u010dit\u00fdch, pozd\u011bji hranat\u00fdch plechov\u00fdch obal\u016f. Prod\u00e1v\u00e1 se tak dodnes, ale mal\u00ed uzen\u00e1\u0159i se ke klasick\u00e9mu masu na kosti vr\u00e1tili.<\/p>\n

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Zdroj:<\/strong> Z\u00cdBRT. \u010c.: Staro\u010desk\u00e9 um\u011bn\u00ed kucha\u0159sk\u00e9. Praha 1927.Zdroj: Josef Rado\u0161, \u0158ezn\u00edci a uzen\u00e1\u0159i ve sv\u011btle v\u011bk\u016f<\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

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