{"id":176141,"date":"2024-11-25T18:14:11","date_gmt":"2024-11-25T17:14:11","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=176141"},"modified":"2024-11-28T23:41:45","modified_gmt":"2024-11-28T22:41:45","slug":"stara-sumava-a-posumavi-podzim-na-taliri","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=176141","title":{"rendered":"STAR\u00c1 \u0160UMAVA A PO\u0160UMAV\u00cd: Podzim na tal\u00ed\u0159i"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Zv\u011b\u0159inu staro\u010desk\u00e1 kucha\u0159ka obohatila mnoha nuancemi chut\u00ed, seps\u00e1no bylo nespo\u010det recept\u016f prozrazuj\u00edc\u00edch, jak\u00e9 to musely b\u00fdt hody a po\u0161u\u0161n\u00e1n\u00ed\u010dko, kdy\u017e se na stole objevily srn\u010d\u00ed, ba\u017eant\u00ed \u010di k\u0148ou\u0159i pochoutky. M\u00e1te rad\u011bji kan\u010d\u00ed se zel\u00edm nebo se \u0161\u00edpkovou om\u00e1\u010dkou? Od chv\u00edle, kdy si \u010dlov\u011bk upekl ulovenou zv\u011b\u0159inu nad ohn\u011bm a sezn\u00e1mil se s jej\u00ed pikantn\u00ed v\u016fn\u00ed i chut\u00ed, propadl jej\u00edmu “kouzlu” a stala se sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed jeho j\u00eddeln\u00ed\u010dku, i kdy\u017e ne ve v\u0161ech dob\u00e1ch byla dostupn\u00e1 v\u0161em vrstv\u00e1m.<\/h6>\n

Nedosti\u017en\u00fd herec a gurmet v jedn\u00e9 osob\u011b, Mistr Jan Werich zv\u011b\u0159inu zbo\u017e\u0148oval. Sv\u016fj v\u00fdrok o tom, \u017ee p\u0159ed kuchy\u0148skou \u00fapravou mus\u00ed b\u00fdt \u00bbp\u0159im\u011b\u0159en\u011b zam\u0159el\u00e1\u00ab \u017eertem doplnil: \u201eTo vypad\u00e1, jako kdy\u017e s t\u00edm masem h\u00fdbou \u010dervi, ale je\u0161t\u011b tam \u017e\u00e1dn\u00ed nejsou.\u201c Jan Werich m\u011bl pravdu.<\/p>\n

Odjak\u017eiva b\u00fdvaly nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed um\u011blkyn\u011b tohoto oboru na na\u0161ich myslivn\u00e1ch a h\u00e1jovn\u00e1ch. Zv\u011b\u0159inov\u00e9 speciality pan\u00ed lesn\u00edch m\u00edvaly n\u011bkdy v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed v\u011bhlas ne\u017e ty nejlep\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdsledky odborn\u00e9 \u010dinnosti jejich man\u017eel\u016f.<\/p>\n

Zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed kapitolu v on\u00e9 p\u0159epestr\u00e9 palet\u011b naz\u00fdvan\u00e9 n\u00e1rodn\u00ed kuchyn\u00ed m\u00e1 bezesporu kuchyn\u011b mysliveck\u00e1. Od chv\u00edle, kdy opekl kus zv\u011b\u0159iny na ohni, za\u010dal \u010dlov\u011bk vym\u00fd\u0161let a zdokonalovat \u00fapravu \u00falovk\u016f, a postupem v\u011bk\u016f vznikaly d\u016fmysln\u00e9 recepty h\u00fd\u0159\u00edc\u00ed chut\u00ed i l\u00e1kavou \u00fapravou. A z\u016fstalo to tak a\u017e do dne\u0161n\u00edch \u010das\u016f.<\/p>\n

Podzim na \u0160umav\u011b, kter\u00fd je bohat\u00fd na lesy, a t\u00edm i na lesn\u00ed zv\u011b\u0159, byl a dodnes je spojen\u00fd s v\u00fdro\u010dn\u00edmi hony. A proto se v tomto obdob\u00ed na st\u016fl na\u0161ich babi\u010dek dost\u00e1vala zv\u011b\u0159ina. I my si m\u016f\u017eeme v tomto obdob\u00ed pochutnat na divo\u010din\u011b \u2013 zaj\u00edc\u00edch, divok\u00fdch hus\u00e1ch, ka\u010den\u00e1ch, na kan\u010d\u00edm, \u010di jelen\u00edm mase. Kdy\u017e v podzimn\u00edch les\u00edch a luk\u00e1ch zazn\u00ed loveck\u00e9 halali, za\u010dnou se labu\u017en\u00edk\u016fm sb\u00edhat sliny – nastal \u010das zv\u011b\u0159inov\u00fdch pochoutek.<\/p>\n

Gurm\u00e1ni si zv\u011b\u0159iny pova\u017eovali oded\u00e1vna, jak dosv\u011bd\u010duje i v\u00fdrok \u010desk\u00e9ho kn\u00ed\u017eete Old\u0159icha. Sv\u00e9mu kaplanovi \u0160eb\u00ed\u0159i, jen\u017e pr\u00fd p\u0159ipravoval v\u00fdte\u010dn\u00e9 kanci oc\u00e1sky, lichotil: “Za tento lahodn\u00fd z\u00e1kusek bys zaslou\u017eil b\u00fdt biskupem.” A jen na okraj – ctihodn\u00fd kn\u011bz se biskupem opravdu stal. V\u011b\u0159me, \u017ee i z\u00e1sluhou jin\u00fdch ctnost\u00ed ne\u017e jen sv\u00e9ho um\u011bn\u00ed kucha\u0159sk\u00e9ho.<\/p>\n

Ctitel\u016f m\u00e1 zv\u011b\u0159ina dost i dnes, p\u0159esto\u017ee se na stole vyskytuj\u00ed jin\u00e9 druhy ne\u017e d\u0159\u00edve. Nev\u00edm, jak by se sou\u010dasn\u00fd labu\u017en\u00edk tv\u00e1\u0159il, kdyby se mu na tal\u00ed\u0159i objevil pikantn\u011b nad\u00edvan\u00fd plch, pokapan\u00fd medem a sypan\u00fd m\u00e1kem, kter\u00fd se jako vz\u00e1cn\u00e1 lah\u016fdka pod\u00e1val na slavn\u00e9 hostin\u011b u \u0159\u00edmsk\u00e9ho ob\u010dana Luculla.<\/p>\n

Gastronomick\u00fdm z\u00e1\u017eitkem podzimu je jednozna\u010dn\u011b zv\u011b\u0159ina. Chutn\u00e9 maso n\u00e1m zvedne v po\u0161mourn\u00fdch podzimn\u00edch dnech n\u00e1ladu. Ruku na srdce – kdo odol\u00e1 srn\u010d\u00edmu gul\u00e1\u0161ku nebo ba\u017eant\u00ed pe\u010d\u00ednce s \u010derven\u00fdm zel\u00ed, \u010di da\u0148\u010d\u00edm medailonk\u016fm? P\u0159im\u011b\u0159en\u011b sv\u00e9 kvalit\u011b je i drah\u00e1 a kdo zrovna ned\u011bl\u00e1 do politiky nebo do velk\u00e9ho byznysu, m\u00e1 a\u017e moc d\u011bravou pen\u011b\u017eenku na to, aby si mohl mlaskat nad srn\u010d\u00edmi bifte\u010dky nebo kan\u010d\u00edm gul\u00e1\u0161kem.<\/p>\n

To jen myslivci si \u017eijou jako p\u00e1ni \u2013 v\u0161ak je proto tak\u00e9 leckdo nem\u00e1 r\u00e1d. Nen\u00ed tedy ani divu, \u017ee se rozm\u00e1h\u00e1 pytl\u00e1ctv\u00ed. Pokud si je d\u00e1 host ve specializovan\u00e9 restauraci, neriskuje. Kdy\u017e se takov\u00fdm ozn\u00e1men\u00edm honos\u00ed \u0161pelu\u0148ka u cesty, doporu\u010dujeme obez\u0159etnost, nebo\u0165 zv\u011b\u0159ina m\u016f\u017ee poch\u00e1zet z pytl\u00e1ck\u00fdch \u00falovk\u016f.<\/p>\n

Chutnost a p\u0159ita\u017elivost zv\u011b\u0159iny byla v pr\u016fb\u011bhu doby a v\u00fdvoje zvy\u0161ov\u00e1na p\u0159id\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edm bylinek a ko\u0159en\u00ed a nov\u00fdmi zp\u016fsoby tepeln\u00e9ho zpracov\u00e1n\u00ed va\u0159en\u00edm, du\u0161en\u00edm, sma\u017een\u00edm a uzen\u00edm, tak\u017ee se st\u00e1vala \u017e\u00e1dan\u00fdm chodem a ozdobou tabul\u00ed i vizitkou kucha\u0159sk\u00e9ho um\u011bn\u00ed. Osv\u011bd\u010den\u00e9 \u00fapravy byly pak d\u00e1le tradov\u00e1ny a prom\u011b\u0148ov\u00e1ny spolu s v\u00fdvojem kucha\u0159sk\u00e9ho um\u011bn\u00ed a jeho soudob\u00fdch technik i vz\u00e1jemn\u00fdm ovliv\u0148ov\u00e1n\u00edm r\u016fzn\u00fdch kucha\u0159sk\u00fdch tradic. P\u0159ita\u017elivost si zv\u011b\u0159ina zachovala i dnes a jej\u00ed typick\u00e1 v\u016fn\u011b a chu\u0165 j\u00ed st\u00e1le zaji\u0161\u0165uj\u00ed \u010destn\u00e9 m\u00edsto mezi obl\u00edben\u00fdmi sv\u00e1te\u010dn\u00edmi j\u00eddly.<\/p>\n

\u017divot na \u0160umav\u011b obklopen\u00fdch lesem, to byl \u017eivot v neust\u00e1l\u00e9m st\u0159ehu. To byl z\u00e1kon p\u0159\u00edrody. A krajem tak\u00e9 \u0161ly v\u00e1lky, voj\u00e1ci, zb\u011bhov\u00e9. Jak m\u00e1lo se tehdy li\u0161il \u017eivot obyvatel \u0160umavy od \u017eivota zv\u011b\u0159e. \u017dili tu vlastn\u011b vedle sebe. Oni v chalup\u00e1ch, zv\u011b\u0159 v lese. A uj\u00eddala tak\u00e9 z jejich pol\u00ed\u010dek. Kdy\u017e se ze\u0161e\u0159ilo, nebo brzo z r\u00e1na, vych\u00e1zelo srn\u010d\u00ed na okraje luk a pol\u00ed. Tak\u00e9 zaj\u00edci, t\u011bch bylo hodn\u011b. A pak koroptve. Ty v hejnech p\u0159etahovaly z pol\u00ed\u010dka na pol\u00ed\u010dko.<\/p>\n

Pozorn\u00e9mu oku neu\u0161la tu a tam ohnut\u00e1 b\u0159\u00edzka a na n\u00ed nastra\u017een\u00e9 oko. Lid\u00e9 vedli ka\u017edou v patrnosti. Nap\u0159\u00edmila-li se, znamenalo to, \u017ee v oku n\u011bco uv\u00edzlo. Pak bylo t\u0159eba ti\u0161e se p\u0159ikr\u00e1st, oko uvolnit a je\u0161t\u011b teplou srnu pod\u0159\u00edznout, aby z n\u00ed vytekla krev. N\u011bkdy u\u017e byla studen\u00e1. Sn\u011bdlo se v\u0161echno. V\u017edy\u0165 za ka\u017ed\u00fd takto polapen\u00fd kus zv\u011b\u0159e mohl na trh odv\u00e9zt o jednu ovci \u010di jehn\u011b nav\u00edc. Pen\u011bz bylo t\u0159eba na obnovu n\u00e1\u0159ad\u00ed, \u00fadr\u017ebu domu, na koupi jalovice, \u010di o\u0161acen\u00ed. A tak\u00e9 do hospody.<\/p>\n

Pytl\u00e1k byl p\u00e1nem. A tak \u0161el \u010das. Zpo\u010d\u00e1tku se to tak nebralo. Na \u00fa\u0159ady bylo daleko a zde byli v\u0161ichni na jedn\u00e9 lodi. Postupn\u011b p\u0159i\u0161la vrchnost se sv\u00fdmi z\u00e1kony a na\u0159\u00edzen\u00edmi, nad kter\u00fdmi bd\u011bli dozorci a hajn\u00ed. Zv\u011b\u0159 v\u0161ak byla l\u00e1kadlo, kter\u00e9 u n\u011bkter\u00fdch p\u0159erostlo ve v\u00e1\u0161e\u0148. Situace se zm\u011bnila po 1. sv\u011btov\u00e9 v\u00e1lce. Voj\u00e1ci, kte\u0159\u00ed p\u0159e\u017eili, si p\u0159ivezli pu\u0161ky dom\u016f a mnohdy ne jednu. Prach, broky a rozn\u011btky byly k dost\u00e1n\u00ed. V lese se nad\u00e1le nach\u00e1zela nastra\u017een\u00e1 oka. R\u00e1nu bylo p\u0159ece jenom daleko sly\u0161et. Hajn\u00fd nebyl p\u0159ehnan\u011b horliv\u00fd. V\u011bd\u011bl, kdo pytla\u010d\u00ed z hladu a kdo z v\u00e1\u0161n\u011b. Nen\u00e1vid\u011bl oka\u0159e. P\u0159esto u nastra\u017een\u00fdch ok nevysed\u00e1val. Kdy\u017e na n\u011bkter\u00e9 p\u0159i\u0161el, vyvl\u00e9kl ho a vzal dom\u016f. Na such\u00e9m kmenu jablon\u011b jich ve dvorku viselo n\u011bkolik des\u00edtek.<\/p>\n

Do hrani\u010dn\u00ed oblasti \u0160umavy k lovu tet\u0159ev\u016f p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u011bli v 17. stolet\u00ed v\u00fdznamn\u00e9 osobnosti. Pat\u0159ili k nim kn\u00ed\u017eec\u00ed pasov\u0161t\u00ed biskupov\u00e9, kte\u0159\u00ed se sem vyd\u00e1vali ze sv\u00e9ho z\u00e1mku Wolfstein, i salcbursk\u00fd arcibiskup, kter\u00fd pob\u00fdval v hostinci Thomase Pauliho v Bierh\u00fctte a v Langau pod T\u0159\u00edstoli\u010dn\u00edkem str\u00e1vil p\u0159i \u010dek\u00e1n\u00ed na tet\u0159evy spoustu \u010dasu.<\/p>\n

Neopakovatelnou atmosf\u00e9ru lovu z konce 19. stolet\u00ed p\u0159ibli\u017euj\u00ed zachovan\u00e9 p\u00edsemn\u00e9 prameny tehdej\u0161\u00edch myslivc\u016f: “Nem\u016f\u017ee b\u00fdt nic kr\u00e1sn\u011bj\u0161\u00edho,” \u010dteme v sotva dnes ji\u017e znateln\u00fdch \u0159\u00e1dc\u00edch za\u017eloutl\u00fdch archivn\u00edch foliant\u016f, “ne\u017e cesta za tet\u0159evem, obyvatelem horsk\u00fdch les\u016f. Kdy\u017e smrt\u00edc\u00ed st\u0159ela n\u00e1hle p\u0159eru\u0161\u00ed p\u00edse\u0148 l\u00e1sky tohoto velk\u00e9ho pt\u00e1ka, ozv\u011bna v\u00fdst\u0159elu dun\u00ed nad zasn\u011b\u017een\u00fdmi temeny hor a t\u011b\u017ek\u00fd kohout pad\u00e1 temn\u00fdmi, ohnut\u00fdmi v\u011btvemi, radostn\u00fd pocit myslivce je mnohdy v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed ne\u017e hrdost p\u0159i pohledu na pr\u00e1v\u011b skolen\u00e9ho jelena”.<\/p>\n

Tet\u0159ev\u00ed “specialita”<\/strong>
\nPokud se t\u00fdk\u00e1 kulin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edpravy tet\u0159eva v kuchyni, o tom se mezi myslivci vypr\u00e1v\u00ed n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed historka. Far\u00e1\u0159 jedn\u00e9 horsk\u00e9 vesnice dostal od myslivce tet\u0159eva. Farsk\u00e1 kucha\u0159ka, kter\u00e1 tet\u0159eva nikdy nep\u0159ipravovala, si \u0161la pro radu k hospodyni do myslivny. Dostala n\u00e1sleduj\u00edc\u00ed recept, co v\u0161echno se mus\u00ed s tet\u0159evem bezpodm\u00edne\u010dn\u011b prov\u00e9st:
\nNejd\u0159\u00edv se mus\u00ed tet\u0159ev nechat t\u00fdden viset ve sklep\u011b na vzduchu, pak se mus\u00ed na \u010dty\u0159i dny zakopat do zem\u011b, aby ztratil hou\u017eevnatost. Pak se mus\u00ed \u010dist\u011b o\u0161kubat a chm\u00fd\u0159\u00ed op\u00e1lit \u017ehav\u00fdm uhl\u00edm. Potom se mus\u00ed vykuchat a z vnit\u0159ku i vn\u011bj\u0161ku vyt\u0159\u00edt \u0161alv\u011bjov\u00fdmi listy a na t\u0159i dny nalo\u017eit do octa s jemn\u00fdm ko\u0159en\u00edm. Pak se mus\u00ed dob\u0159e pro\u0161pikovat, naplnit nejlep\u0161\u00ed n\u00e1pln\u00ed a p\u016fl hodiny v Madei\u0159e m\u00e1\u010det a pak na m\u00e1sle p\u011bkn\u011b do hn\u011bda up\u00e9ct. Kdy\u017e je hotov\u00fd, vyhod\u00ed se na hn\u016fj, proto\u017ee “ta mrcha nestoj\u00ed za nic”.<\/p>\n

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Zdroj:<\/strong> Lum\u00edr KOTHERA – Myslivc\u016fv rok<\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

  Zv\u011b\u0159inu <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":329662,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"gallery","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[111],"tags":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2024\/11\/25\/ram-na-taliri.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/176141"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=176141"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/176141\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":329661,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/176141\/revisions\/329661"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/329662"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=176141"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=176141"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=176141"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}