![\"\"](\"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/07\/25\/PUTOV\u00c1N\u00cd-PO-\u0160UMAV\u011a-S-KARLEM-\u010cAPKEM-...jpg\")
<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
<\/p>\n
(963) \u010cesk\u00fd Krumlov. V \u00fater\u00fd, dne ? 1. 9. 1925<\/strong> (964) \u010cesk\u00fd Krumlov 2. 9. 1925. St\u0159eda<\/strong> (965) \u010cesk\u00fd Krumlov 4. 9. 1925<\/strong> (966) Prachatice na \u0160umav\u011b 6. 9. 1925<\/strong> (967) Lenora 7. IX. 1925<\/strong> Karel \u010capek ve sv\u00e9m “cestopise” Obr\u00e1zky z domova<\/strong> (kniha t\u00e9ho\u017e n\u00e1zvu byla sestavena z jeho poz\u016fstalosti, m\u00e1 motto z roku 1938 \/tehdy na konec republiky i on skonal\/ a vy\u0161la poprv\u00e9 v roce 1953, a\u010dkoli sama “\u0161umavsk\u00e1” pas\u00e1\u017e s hlavn\u00edm titulem Podle Vltavy, kterou tu ostatn\u011b pro n\u00e1zornost otiskujeme p\u0159ilo\u017een\u011b celou, je datov\u00e1na letopo\u010dtem 1925) pro\u017eil cestu do Vy\u0161\u0161\u00edho Brodu “vlastn\u011b” jako pomalou, dlouhou, starosv\u011btskou a p\u0159ece fascinuj\u00edc\u00ed. Daly se p\u0159i n\u00ed sb\u00edrat houby v lese p\u0159i silnici a u V\u011btrn\u00e9 bylo t\u0159eba d\u00e1vat pozor, aby \u010dlov\u011bku neulet\u011bl klobouk z hlavy. Um\u011bleck\u00e9 poklady cisterci\u00e1ck\u00e9ho kl\u00e1\u0161tera \u010capka nadchly jako v\u00fdznamn\u00e9 historick\u00e9 d\u011bdictv\u00ed. O lidech regionu Vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed Brod a Ro\u017emberk nad Vltavou p\u00ed\u0161e, \u017ee se “\u017eiv\u00ed d\u0159\u00edv\u00edm, sam\u00fdm d\u0159\u00edv\u00edm a senem”, z jejich “siln\u00e9 a zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed \u0159e\u010di” “nerozum\u011bl ani slova” \u010capek pozoroval charakter p\u0159\u00edrodn\u00ed a kulturn\u00ed krajiny, kterou vn\u00edmal jako osobitou, mnohdy dokonce ciz\u00ed, resp. kterou z perspektivy \u010desky mluv\u00edc\u00edho ob\u010dana, \u017eij\u00edc\u00edho nav\u00edc v hlavn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b Praze, tak vn\u00edmat musil.<\/strong><\/p>\n \u010cesk\u00fd Krumlov<\/strong> Nade v\u0161\u00edm tady v\u00e9vod\u00ed \/opravdu v\u00e9vod\u00ed, a to po v\u00e9vodech Eggenbersk\u00fdch\/ tamhle naho\u0159e z\u00e1mek a hlavn\u011b v\u011b\u017e, jedna z nejv\u011bkovit\u011bj\u0161\u00edch v\u011b\u017e\u00ed, jak\u00e9 jsem kdy vid\u011bl; \u0159ekl bych, \u017ee v\u011b\u017ee jsou \u010desk\u00e1 specialita, proto\u017ee nikde nemaj\u00ed takov\u00e9 divn\u00e9 b\u00e1n\u011b, bachrat\u00e9 cibule, makovice, lucerny, p\u0159ilepen\u00e9 v\u011b\u017ei\u010dky a galerie a \u0161pi\u010dky jako u n\u00e1s; ka\u017ed\u00e9 star\u00e9 \u010desk\u00e9 m\u011bsto m\u00e1 svou zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed v\u011b\u017e, podle kter\u00e9 se pozn\u00e1, \u017ee tohle je Hradec a tohle Brno a tohle Bud\u011bjovice a tohle \u010cesk\u00fd Krumlov.<\/p>\n Co se z\u00e1mku t\u00fd\u010de, je cel\u00fd pomalovan\u00fd a pota\u017een\u00fd freskami vnit\u0159 i zevn\u011b; ale ze v\u0161eho nejlep\u0161\u00ed je barokn\u00ed kn\u00ed\u017eec\u00ed divad\u00e9lko, ve kter\u00e9m je\u0161t\u011b vis\u00ed star\u00e9 dekorace; mohla by tam v tu chv\u00edli stra\u0161it n\u011bjak\u00e1 tali\u00e1nka. Zdroj\u00e1nsk\u00e1 opera z osmn\u00e1ct\u00e9ho stolet\u00ed, ale nestra\u0161\u00ed, proto\u017ee se tu nesm\u00ed z bezpe\u010dnostn\u00edch d\u016fvod\u016f hr\u00e1t. Pak tam je letohr\u00e1dek Bellaria s takov\u00fdmi \u017eertovn\u00fdmi schody na prsou, a spousta jin\u00fdch barokn\u00edch v\u011bc\u00ed; za t\u0159i koruny je toho a\u017ea\u017e.<\/p>\n Cesta do Vy\u0161\u0161\u00edho Brodu a Ro\u017emberku<\/strong> Lid se tu \u017eiv\u00ed d\u0159\u00edv\u00edm, sam\u00fdm d\u0159\u00edv\u00edm a senem; \u0159\u00eddk\u00e9 vesnice a star\u00e1 m\u011bste\u010dka, jako t\u0159eba Ro\u017emberk s ro\u017embersk\u00fdm hradem a bukvojsk\u00fdm z\u00e1me\u010dkem. Na hrad\u011b je mnoho star\u00fdch \u0159ezan\u00fdch sk\u0159\u00edn\u00ed a stol\u016f a sesl\u00ed, zbroje a poprav\u010d\u00ed me\u010de, dubov\u00e9 stropy a spousta star\u00fdch portr\u00e9t\u016f; je tu i B\u00edl\u00e1 pan\u00ed s uslzen\u00fdma o\u010dima a dlouh\u00fdm nosem, o n\u00ed\u017e kastel\u00e1n \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, \u017ee tu stra\u0161\u00edv\u00e1; na Jind\u0159ichov\u011b Hradci stra\u0161\u00ed tak\u00e9, rovn\u011b\u017e v T\u0159eboni a na Krumlov\u011b; na sv\u016fj v\u011bk je to z\u0159ejm\u011b dosti pohybliv\u00e1 d\u00e1ma. Mimo to jsou tu i mu\u010didla, d\u017eb\u00e1ny, star\u00e9 z\u00e1mky a pam\u00e1tky bujn\u00e9ho poreforma\u010dn\u00edho katolicismu, jako t\u0159eba karty v podob\u011b brevi\u00e1\u0159e a krucifixy a mnoho jin\u00fdch star\u00fdch v\u011bc\u00ed. A pak po\u0159\u00e1d d\u00e1l a d\u00e1l Vltava, \u00fazk\u00e9 a klikat\u00e9 \u00fadol\u00ed se silnou zlatou a \u010dernou \u0159ekou.<\/p>\n <\/p>\n Zdroj:<\/strong> 20. z\u00e1\u0159\u00ed 1925, kdy\u017e publikoval Karel \u010capek v Lidov\u00fdch novin\u00e1ch prvn\u00ed ze dvou text\u016f Podle Vltavy, v\u011bnovan\u00fd \u010cesk\u00e9mu Krumlovu, Vy\u0161\u0161\u00edmu Brodu a Ro\u017emberku. Text dopis\u016f vych\u00e1z\u00ed z d\u00edla Korespondence II. tak, jak bylo vyd\u00e1no v \u010ceskoslovensk\u00e9m spisovateli v roce 1993 (\u010cAPEK, Karel. Korespondence II. 1. soubor. vyd. Praha : \u010ceskoslovensk\u00fd spisovatel, 1993. 520 s. Spisy, sv. 23.).<\/p>\n P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n <\/p>\n <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":" Korespondence <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":291796,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"gallery","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[111],"tags":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2023\/11\/22\/ram-putovani.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/166696"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=166696"}],"version-history":[{"count":3,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/166696\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":291797,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/166696\/revisions\/291797"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/291796"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=166696"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=166696"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=166696"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}
\n\u0160\u0165astn\u011b dorazil, v\u0161e vid\u011bl, spal 14 hodin, sn\u011bdl 3 porce, na\u0161el
\nkapsu h\u0159ib\u016f, celkem spokojen. Velik\u00e1 lenost spojen\u00e1 s chut\u00ed je\u0161t\u011b
\nn\u011bco vid\u011bt. Snad Vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed Brod. Je tu mnoho p\u011bkn\u00e9ho. V\u0161e v po\u0159\u00e1dku.
\nT\u011b\u0161\u00edm se zase do Prahy.
\nSrde\u010dn\u011b K \u010c<\/p>\n
\nDnes jsem zamokl. Je to divn\u00e9, kde j\u00e1 jsem, tam pr\u0161\u00ed. P\u0159esto nen\u00ed
\nto dosud zl\u00e9. Pokus\u00edm se vzdorovat po\u010das\u00ed a vydr\u017eet.
\nSrde\u010dn\u011b zdrav\u00ed K \u010c<\/p>\n
\nV\u010dera byl na celodenn\u00edm v\u00fdletu ko\u010d\u00e1rem, ve Vy\u0161\u0161\u00edm Brod\u011b a
\nRo\u017emberku. Z\u00edtra opou\u0161t\u00ed Krumlov a jede d\u00e1l, n\u011bkam na Lenoru,
\nkde jsou ty prav\u00e9 lesy. Ale to u\u017e je za\u010d\u00e1tek n\u00e1vratu. Jinak v\u0161e v
\npo\u0159\u00e1dku, p\u011bkn\u00fd chladn\u00fd \u010das, n\u00e1lada obstojn\u00e1.
\nSe srde\u010dn\u00fdm pozdravem K \u010c<\/p>\n
\nZas o stanici d\u00e1l; je trochu zima na h\u0159\u00edbky i na mne, n\u00e1sledkem
\n\u010deho\u017e se asi dost brzo vr\u00e1t\u00edm. Jinak zdr\u00e1v, nyn\u00ed u\u017e s\u00e1m, a vid\u00edm
\nmnoho p\u011bkn\u00e9ho.
\nSrde\u010dn\u011b zdrav\u00ed K \u010c<\/p>\n
\nTak u\u017e se vrac\u00edm, nebo\u0165 nen\u00ed mi mo\u017eno d\u00e9le mrznout. Ale h\u0159iby
\njsem na\u0161el, pane\u010dku! P\u0159ihl\u00e1s\u00edm se ihned po n\u00e1vratu.
\nSe srde\u010dn\u00fdm pozdravem K \u010c<\/p>\n
\nJ\u00e1 nev\u00edm, kolikr\u00e1t se tady Vltava krout\u00ed; ne\u017eli projde\u0161 m\u011bstem, dr\u017ee se co mo\u017en\u00e1 p\u0159\u00edmo, p\u0159ekro\u010d\u00ed\u0161 ji asi p\u011btkr\u00e1t a poka\u017ed\u00e9 se div\u00ed\u0161, \u017ee je tak zlatohn\u011bd\u00e1 a \u017ee m\u00e1 tak nasp\u011bch. Kolik m\u00e1 Krumlov obyvatel, to tak\u00e9 nev\u00edm, ale hospod m\u00e1 \u010dty\u0159iat\u0159icet, t\u0159i kostely, jeden z\u00e1mek, ale zato velik\u00fd, dv\u011b br\u00e1ny s velikou silou pam\u00e1tek; vlastn\u011b cel\u00e9 m\u011bsto je jedin\u00e1 historick\u00e1 pam\u00e1tka, co\u017e trochu p\u0159ipom\u00edn\u00e1 Sienu nebo Stirling nebo jin\u00e1 slavn\u00e1 m\u00edsta. Tak tedy jsou tu star\u00e9 \u0161t\u00edty, ark\u00fd\u0159e, vik\u00fd\u0159e, podloub\u00ed, oblouky, ochozy, cimbu\u0159\u00ed, sgrafita, fresky, schody, nahoru a dol\u016f, balustr\u00e1dy, ka\u0161ny, sloupy, patn\u00edky, kouty, tr\u00e1my, m\u00e1zhausy, podjezdy, historick\u00e9 dl\u00e1\u017ed\u011bn\u00ed, klikat\u00e9 ulice, betlemy, vysok\u00e9 st\u0159echy, gotick\u00fd kostel, minoriti a v\u0161ude \u010derven\u00e9 ro\u017embersk\u00e9 r\u016f\u017ee; kam se vrtne\u0161, vid\u00ed\u0161 samou malebnost a starod\u00e1vnost a historickou sl\u00e1vu, ale ve star\u00fdch p\u0159edm\u011bst\u00edch, to u\u017e jsou jenom n\u00edzk\u00e9 dome\u010dky, rukou dos\u00e1hne\u0161 na st\u0159echu, v oknech ger\u00e1nie a nade dve\u0159mi n\u00e1pis; tady je\u0161t\u011b \u017eij\u00ed star\u00e1 \u0159emesla jako v patn\u00e1ct\u00e9m stolet\u00ed.<\/p>\n
\nVlastn\u011b by se tam m\u011blo jet formansk\u00fdm vozem; \u010dlov\u011bk by podle cesty sb\u00edral houby, a kdy\u017e to naho\u0159e v Nesselbachu p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 fi\u010d\u00ed, vlezl by pod plachtu a d\u00edval by se na v\u00e1\u017en\u00e9, nesp\u011bchaj\u00edc\u00ed zadky kon\u00ed, je\u017e zachovaly svou starosv\u011btskou formu jako cel\u00fd ten star\u00fd kraj. Cesta by trvala skoro cel\u00fd den, ale nakonec by se p\u0159ece jen uk\u00e1zal b\u00edl\u00fd kl\u00e1\u0161ter vy\u0161ebrodsk\u00fdch cisterci\u00e1k\u016f, p\u011bkn\u00fd a m\u00edrn\u00fd, uzav\u0159en\u00fd jako m\u011bste\u010dko, kde je v\u0161e: l\u00e9k\u00e1rna i pivovar i knihovna i museum i krav\u00edn a hlavn\u011b ticho, ticho, kter\u00e9 u\u017e je samo o sob\u011b jak\u00e1si pobo\u017enost, \u010dlov\u011b\u010de bezbo\u017en\u00fd. A v t\u00e9 knihovn\u011b je snad pades\u00e1t tis\u00edc svazk\u016f v b\u00edl\u00e9 k\u016f\u017ei svi\u0148sk\u00e9 a hn\u011bd\u00e9 usn\u00ed hov\u011bz\u00ed; knihy trochu obstaro\u017en\u00ed, v\u011bt\u0161inou latina, sam\u00e9 osmn\u00e1ct\u00e9 stolet\u00ed, jako cel\u00fd ten kl\u00e1\u0161ter s rokokov\u00fdmi dvory a freskami. A v obraz\u00e1rn\u011b maj\u00ed nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed poklad, tajemn\u00e9 obrazy vy\u0161ebrodsk\u00e9ho mistra, podivn\u00fd v\u00fdkv\u011bt \u010desk\u00e9 gotiky, kter\u00e9mu se \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 jiho\u010desk\u00e1 \u0161kola a kter\u00fd se svou z\u00e1dum\u010divou a \u010distotnou urozenost\u00ed je trochu z\u00e1zrakem v na\u0161\u00ed t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9 a selsk\u00e9 zemi. B\u016fh s\u00e1m v\u00ed, kde se tohle vzalo; ale i to je z\u00e1zrak, \u017ee se to uchovalo v bez\u00fahonn\u00e9 neporu\u0161enosti u n\u00e1s, v zemi toliker\u00e9ho zni\u010den\u00ed. Je\u0161t\u011b gotick\u00e1 k\u0159\u00ed\u017eov\u00e1 chodba a kapituln\u00ed s\u00ed\u0148 jsou kousek star\u00e9 sl\u00e1vy vy\u0161ebrodsk\u00e9, a jiho\u010desk\u00e1 Madona v klausu\u0159e kostela; ale ty obrazy mluv\u00ed o duchu, kter\u00fd mnoho vid\u011bl a pak se snad uzav\u0159el v teskn\u00e9 a p\u0159\u00edsn\u00e9 \u010distot\u011b; \u010dlov\u011bk p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 jemn\u00fd a osam\u011bl\u00fd.<\/p>\n
\n