{"id":148930,"date":"2024-12-24T21:46:44","date_gmt":"2024-12-24T20:46:44","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=148930"},"modified":"2024-12-24T21:46:44","modified_gmt":"2024-12-24T20:46:44","slug":"z-archivu-a-kronik-male-velke-radosti-vanocni","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=148930","title":{"rendered":"Z ARCHIV\u016e A KRONIK: Mal\u00e9 velk\u00e9 radosti v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed"},"content":{"rendered":"

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O V\u00e1noc\u00edch je v\u0161e dovoleno. N\u00e1vraty do d\u011btstv\u00ed p\u0159ed adventn\u00edm \u010dokol\u00e1dov\u00fdm kalend\u00e1\u0159em, zv\u011bdav\u00e9 rozbalov\u00e1n\u00ed d\u00e1rk\u016f \u010di vzru\u0161uj\u00edc\u00ed debaty o skladb\u011b bramborov\u00e9ho sal\u00e1tu. Popisovat poezii V\u00e1noc je balancov\u00e1n\u00ed na tenk\u00e9m led\u011b, ale ty mal\u00e9 chv\u00edle \u0161t\u011bst\u00ed nad v\u016fn\u011bmi v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed kuchyn\u011b jsou na\u0161t\u011bst\u00ed p\u0159et\u0159\u00e1s\u00e1ny rok co rok.<\/h6>\n

T\u00e9m\u011b\u0159 ve v\u0161ech liter\u00e1rn\u00edch d\u00edlech se zm\u00ednky o V\u00e1noc\u00edch odv\u00edjej\u00ed pr\u00e1v\u011b od v\u016fn\u00ed. Ne nadarmo je \u010dich nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00edm detektorem novorozenc\u016f, a i kdy\u017e d\u00e1vno nev\u00edme, jak\u00e9 d\u00e1rky jsme to vlastn\u011b p\u0159ed lety dostali, rodinn\u00e1 j\u00eddla a jejich v\u016fni si v pam\u011bti h\u00fd\u010dk\u00e1me jako poklad.<\/p>\n

Pohansk\u00e9 tradice oslav zimn\u00edho slunovratu, p\u0159edch\u016fdce V\u00e1noc, uct\u00edvali Keltov\u00e9 jako v\u00edt\u011bzstv\u00ed nov\u00e9ho \u017eivota nad smrt\u00ed, slunce nad zimou. Krom\u011b slavnostn\u00edho zdoben\u00ed, zvyku p\u00e1len\u00ed v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edho polena, kter\u00fd p\u0159etrv\u00e1val po stalet\u00ed nebo v\u011b\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed, kter\u00e9 n\u00e1m ostatn\u011b z\u016fstalo dodnes se uv\u00e1d\u00ed i znalost v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edho pe\u010diva. Ob\u0159adn\u00ed pe\u010divo m\u011blo podobu kole\u010dek a m\u011bs\u00ed\u010dk\u016f, oslazen\u00fdch medem, \u00fadajn\u011b se pil borovicov\u00fd \u010daj a jako hlavn\u00ed ob\u0159adn\u00ed j\u00eddlo byla p\u0159edkl\u00e1d\u00e1na ryba. Ryby jsou ostatn\u011b uv\u00e1d\u011bny spolu s chlebem v evangeli\u00edch, rybami sytil Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161 z\u00e1stupy a ryby figurovaly jako d\u016fle\u017eit\u00e9 postn\u00ed j\u00eddlo. Po rozkv\u011btu rybn\u00edk\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed v oblasti ji\u017en\u00edch \u010cech se ryba jako symbol Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161e na \u0160t\u011bdr\u00fd ve\u010der vychutn\u00e1vala nej\u010dast\u011bji p\u0159ipraven\u00e1 na\u010derno, namodro nebo sma\u017een\u00e1.P\u0159esto jej\u00ed sl\u00e1va od 17. do 19. stolet\u00ed do\u010dasn\u011b utichla.<\/p>\n

Hostiny se objevuj\u00ed i ve starov\u011bk\u00e9 \u0158\u00edmsk\u00e9 \u0159\u00ed\u0161i a medov\u00e9 kol\u00e1\u010de se pekly k pot\u011b\u0161en\u00ed boh\u016f a\u017e do doby, kdy pohansk\u00e9 bujar\u00e9 vesel\u00ed p\u0159ev\u00e1lcovaly k\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00e9 V\u00e1noce. K\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00fd pohled na V\u00e1noce v\u0161ak rozhodn\u011b nebyl jednotn\u00fd. Na jednu stranu byli lid\u00e9 nab\u00e1d\u00e1ni, aby oslavovali narozen\u00ed P\u00e1n\u011b st\u0159\u00edzliv\u011b, v rozj\u00edm\u00e1n\u00ed nad postn\u00edmi, chud\u00fdmi j\u00eddly, jin\u00e9 hlasy naopak sv\u00e1d\u011bly k hojnosti \u0160t\u011bdr\u00e9ho ve\u010dera.<\/p>\n

P\u0159etrv\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed d\u016fsledek pohansk\u00e9ho opulentn\u00edho slaven\u00ed p\u0159ikl\u00e1n\u011bl \u0161t\u011bdrove\u010dern\u00ed ve\u010de\u0159i sm\u011brem k masu, zabija\u010dka p\u0159ed sv\u00e1tky dala ovar, jitrnice, jel\u00edtka, vinn\u00e9 klob\u00e1sy. V Erbenov\u00fdch Proston\u00e1rodn\u00edch \u010desk\u00fdch p\u00edsn\u00edch a \u0159\u00edkadlech vydan\u00fdch roku 1886 Aloisem Hynkem se ve v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edch \u0159\u00edkadlech a koled\u00e1ch uv\u00e1d\u011bj\u00ed pr\u00e1v\u011b jitrnice, ryby, ka\u0161e, jablka a radost se zap\u00edj\u00ed v\u00ednem \u010di pivem \u201ep\u00e1len\u00fdm za zdrav\u00ed druh\u00e9ho\u201c.<\/p>\n

Kulin\u00e1rn\u00ed radosti v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed byly ale limitov\u00e1ny hospod\u00e1\u0159skou situac\u00ed zem\u00ed Koruny \u010desk\u00e9. D\u016fsledky v\u00e1lek a ne\u00farodn\u00fdch rok\u016f znamenaly kouzlen\u00ed z toho, co dala p\u016fda a les. V p\u0159edepsan\u00fdch dev\u00edti chodech defilovaly oplatky s medem, bylinkami nebo \u010desnekem, kousek chleba nebo rozpeky z chlebov\u00e9ho t\u011bsta, syt\u00e9 pol\u00e9vky se z\u00e1sma\u017ekou a su\u0161en\u00fdmi houbami, kuba, ka\u0161e, hr\u00e1ch, ovoce a nezbytn\u00e1 v\u00e1no\u010dka, nejstar\u0161\u00ed \u010desk\u00fd exempl\u00e1\u0159 v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edho ob\u0159adn\u00edho pe\u010diva.<\/p>\n

A\u010dkoli se v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed st\u016fl li\u0161\u00ed region od regionu, jeden spole\u010dn\u00fd jmenovatel je spolehliv\u00fd \u2013 postn\u00ed \u010dek\u00e1n\u00ed na prvn\u00ed hv\u011bzdu. Od r\u00e1na pec s\u00e1lala ohn\u011bm, bylo uklizeno, chleby (v lep\u0161\u00edm p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b i v\u00e1no\u010dka) jako symbol dostatku nape\u010deny a va\u0159ila se pol\u00e9vka \u2013 podle kraj\u016f \u010do\u010dkov\u00e1, hrachov\u00e1, brambora\u010dka, houbov\u00e1, nebo ryb\u00ed. Zel\u00ed obecn\u011b na stole nikdy nechyb\u011blo.<\/p>\n

Slavnostn\u00ed st\u016fl byl ozdoben, pod b\u00edl\u00fd ubrus, kter\u00fd se na venkov\u011b objevuje a\u017e za t\u0159i stolet\u00ed po m\u011bstsk\u00fdch dom\u00e1cnostech, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b pod st\u016fl samotn\u00fd, se vkl\u00e1dalo obil\u00ed. Prvn\u00ed hv\u011bzda usadila rodinu ke stolu. V\u017edy se dodr\u017eoval sud\u00fd po\u010det stolovn\u00edk\u016f, p\u0159\u00edpadn\u011b se prost\u0159elo pro n\u00e1hodn\u00e9ho hosta, pod tal\u00ed\u0159em ka\u017ed\u00fd na\u0161el ryb\u00ed \u0161upinku nebo i pen\u00edz.<\/p>\n

Na stole nesm\u011bly chyb\u011bt vyp\u011bstovan\u00e9 a nasb\u00edran\u00e9 m\u00edstn\u00ed produkty, sklenice medu a \u010desnek proti nemocem, su\u0161en\u00e9 ovoce a o\u0159echy. P\u0159ed prvn\u00edmi sousty hrachu zazn\u011bla spole\u010dn\u00e1 modlitba a slova d\u00edk\u016f za uplynul\u00fd rok, hospodyn\u011b odebrala z m\u00edsy kousek pro dom\u00e1c\u00ed zv\u00ed\u0159ata, kter\u00fdm se zav\u011b\u0161ovalo nad chl\u00e9vy nape\u010den\u00e9 jednoduch\u00e9 cukrov\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Hr\u00e1ch, stejn\u011b jako nemlet\u00e1 zrna obil\u00ed, charakterizoval blahobyt, \u00farodu\u2026 zkr\u00e1tka celou tu magii \u017eivota. Pu\u010d\u00e1lka, pokrm z nakl\u00ed\u010den\u00e9ho hrachu, se objevuje u\u017e ve st\u0159edov\u011bku a p\u0159ipravovala se s medem a pep\u0159em. Tradi\u010dn\u00ed kuba se n\u011bkde j\u00edd\u00e1val s kysel\u00fdmi \u0161vestkami nebo zap\u00e9kal s bramborami.<\/p>\n

P\u0159\u00edbuzn\u00fd kuby z Vyso\u010diny se stejn\u011b poetick\u00fdm jm\u00e9nem \u2013 hubn\u00edk \u2013 tak\u00e9 von\u011bl houbami, sm\u00edchan\u00fdmi s podobn\u00fdmi surovinami, vejci a slanou krupicovou ka\u0161\u00ed. Pod\u00e1valo se i starod\u00e1vn\u00e9 ob\u0159adn\u00ed j\u00eddlo jaheln\u00edk, \u017elu\u0165ou\u010dk\u00e9 j\u00e1hly m\u011bly b\u00fdt p\u0159\u00edslibem hojnosti pen\u011bz, m\u00edstn\u011b se poj\u00eddal osolen\u00fd, jinde zas nasladko.
\nZ masa figurovalo ob\u010das uzen\u00e9 nebo zaj\u00edc, op\u011bt \u201ena\u010derno\u201c. V bohat\u00fdch pra\u017esk\u00fdch dom\u00e1cnostech se po pol\u00e9vce serv\u00edrovala pe\u010den\u00e1 husa, kter\u00e1 dnes ovl\u00e1d\u00e1 slavnostn\u00ed st\u016fl na \u0160t\u011bp\u00e1na. V druh\u00e9 polovin\u011b 19. stolet\u00ed se na pra\u017esk\u00fdch stolech objevuje i kapr a n\u00e1sledn\u011b kol\u00e1\u010de s ovocem nebo tvarohem. V domech \u0161lechtic\u016f se vychutn\u00e1vali r\u00e1\u010dci a uv\u00e1d\u011bj\u00ed se i \u0161ne\u010d\u00ed pochoutky.<\/p>\n

Anu\u0161e Kej\u0159ov\u00e1, kter\u00e1 ve sv\u00e9 \u00dasporn\u00e9 kucha\u0159ce z roku 1931 p\u00ed\u0161e o V\u00e1noc\u00edch sice jako o nejv\u00fdznamn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch a nejpoeti\u010dt\u011bj\u0161\u00edch sv\u00e1tc\u00edch, nicm\u00e9n\u011b \u201epro hospodyni snad ze v\u0161ech nejpracn\u011bj\u0161\u00edm a nejdra\u017e\u0161\u00edm z cel\u00e9ho roku\u201c, \u0161neky uv\u00e1d\u00ed ve sv\u00fdch \u010dty\u0159ech j\u00eddeln\u00ed\u010dc\u00edch. N\u00e1sleduj\u00ed pol\u00e9vky ryb\u00ed i p\u00f3rkov\u00e1, vejce po rusku, kapr nebo l\u00edn na\u010derno s v\u00edde\u0148sk\u00fdm knedl\u00edkem, sma\u017een\u00fd kapr s k\u0159enem, cand\u00e1t s m\u00e1slem, \u0161tika v rosolu, hlem\u00fd\u017edi s citronem a jablkov\u00e9 z\u00e1viny \u010di ka\u0161tanov\u00fd dort.<\/p>\n

Bohat\u00e9 rodiny si p\u0159ed po\u010d\u00e1tkem 20. stolet\u00ed dop\u0159\u00e1valy i cizokrajn\u00e9 delikatesy typu \u00fast\u0159ic, uzen\u00e9ho lososa a kavi\u00e1ru. M\u00edsto v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00edho cukrov\u00ed se vychutn\u00e1valo sp\u00ed\u0161e su\u0161en\u00e9 ovoce, l\u00edvane\u010dky nebo cezen\u00e9 nudle se strouhan\u00fdm pern\u00edkem a pe\u010divo spa\u0159en\u00e9 ml\u00e9kem \u2013 polabsk\u00e9 \u201epeciv\u00e1lky\u201c. Klasick\u00e9 cukrov\u00ed \u0161kvarkov\u00e9, z\u00e1zvorky, zava\u0159eninov\u00e9 cukrov\u00ed, med\u00e1ky, v\u00e1no\u010dkov\u00e9 kutelky, karamelky a dom\u00e1c\u00edho p\u0159\u00edtele vyst\u0159\u00eddalo sou\u010dasn\u00e9 devatero od vanilkov\u00fdch rohl\u00ed\u010dk\u016f po lineck\u00e9 pe\u010divo a jable\u010dn\u00fd z\u00e1vin.<\/p>\n

Slavnostn\u00ed ve\u010de\u0159e se splachovala v\u00ednem, pivem, p\u00e1lenkou, pun\u010dem, medovinou \u2013 a pak u\u017e zb\u00fdvalo jen zazvonit zvone\u010dkem. A\u0165 je to, jak chce, na p\u016flno\u010dn\u00ed m\u0161i se chodilo s \u017ealudky napln\u011bn\u00fdmi \u010dirou poetikou a tyhle mal\u00e9 radosti velk\u00fdch V\u00e1noc po boku kapra a bramborov\u00e9ho sal\u00e1tu zaslou\u017e\u00ed obrozen\u00ed.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Zdroj:<\/strong> Dita Klepkov\u00e1, \u010dasopis F.O.O.D.<\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

\n

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