{"id":141725,"date":"2023-06-08T14:01:27","date_gmt":"2023-06-08T13:01:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=141725"},"modified":"2023-06-08T14:01:27","modified_gmt":"2023-06-08T13:01:27","slug":"z-archivu-a-kronik-o-zmrzlinarich","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=141725","title":{"rendered":"Z ARCHIV\u016e A KRONIK: O zmrzlin\u00e1\u0159\u00edch"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Kdy\u017e se na ja\u0159e teplota vy\u0161plhala o n\u011bco v\u00fd\u0161, ozvalo se obvykle na m\u011bstsk\u00fdch ulic\u00edch pov\u011bdom\u00e9 u\u017e klink\u00e1n\u00ed zvonku a zvu\u010dn\u00fd hlas vyvol\u00e1vaj\u00edc\u00ed slovo od \u010cech na z\u00e1pad snad v\u016fbec jak\u00e9mukoli jazyku prost\u011b nevysloviteln\u00e9: “Zmrzlina!” My jsme t\u00e9 pochoutce \u0159\u00edkali n\u011bmecky Gefrorenes, i kdy\u017e v N\u011bmecku se ozna\u010duje prost\u011b jako Eis, tedy Speiseeis. Dvoukolov\u00fd voz\u00edk, naho\u0159e dva \u010di t\u0159i keramick\u00e9 hrnce s nabl\u00fdskan\u00fdmi mosazn\u00fdmi v\u00edky, zpod nich\u017e za p\u00e1r hal\u00e9\u0159\u016f majitel poj\u00edzdn\u00e9ho st\u00e1nku nabral zmrzlinov\u00fd \u010depec a pak ti do ruky vtiskl kornout (Schkarnitzel) pln\u00fd ledov\u00e9 dobroty.<\/span><\/h6>\n

Z roku 1788 m\u00e1me zpr\u00e1vy o tom, \u017ee zmrzlinu nab\u00edzej\u00ed cukr\u00e1\u0159i ve dvou pra\u017esk\u00fdch cukr\u00e1rn\u00e1ch. Na za\u010d\u00e1tku 19. stolet\u00ed pat\u0159\u00ed zmrzlina i v na\u0161em hlavn\u00edm m\u011bst\u011b mezi obl\u00edben\u00e9 ob\u010derstven\u00ed. Tu nejlep\u0161\u00ed pr\u00fd tehdy vyr\u00e1b\u00ed cukr\u00e1\u0159 Herrmann. Objedn\u00e1v\u00e1 si ji u n\u011bho hlavn\u011b \u0161lechta a bohat\u00ed m\u011b\u0161\u0165an\u00e9. Nab\u00edz\u00ed ji tak\u00e9 n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bvn\u00edk\u016fm tehdej\u0161\u00edho Nosticova divadla (sou\u010dasn\u00e9 Stavovsk\u00e9 divadlo). Obecenstvo si na n\u00ed pochutn\u00e1v\u00e1 b\u011bhem p\u0159est\u00e1vek a jde pr\u00fd velice dob\u0159e na odbyt. Ne\u017e se ale zmrzlina dostane v \u010cech\u00e1ch i do lidov\u00fdch vrstev, to je je\u0161t\u011b n\u011bjak\u00fd \u010das potrv\u00e1. Na konci 19. stolet\u00ed u\u017e ale po vlastech \u010desk\u00fdch zmrzlinov\u00e9 vozy na dvou kolech. Od roku 1903 se objevuje zmrzlinov\u00fd kornout, v roce 1921 potom nanuk, typick\u00e1 zmrzlina s d\u0159\u00edvkem.<\/span><\/p>\n

C\u00edsa\u0159 Nero pr\u00e1v\u011b vyslechl posly, kte\u0159\u00ed mu p\u0159inesli zpr\u00e1vy o situaci v Arm\u00e9nii. \u201eTe\u010f bych si dal sn\u00edh z Olympu,\u201c p\u0159ikazuje sv\u00fdm sluh\u016fm. Ve sv\u00e9m pal\u00e1ci m\u00e1 speci\u00e1ln\u00ed j\u00e1mu vylo\u017eenou d\u0159evem, v n\u00ed\u017e uchov\u00e1v\u00e1 horsk\u00fd sn\u00edh. Ten nyn\u00ed sluhov\u00e9 ochucuj\u00ed medem, sko\u0159ic\u00ed a r\u016f\u017eovou vodou, aby ho jako osv\u011b\u017een\u00ed mohli podat sv\u00e9mu p\u00e1novi. Zmrzlina, to je It\u00e1lie. Podle legend ji\u017e v roce 1295 p\u0159ivezl proslul\u00fd cestovatel Marco Polo (1254\u20131324) do Ben\u00e1tek recept na jej\u00ed v\u00fdrobu, kter\u00fd z\u00edskal od velk\u00e9ho ch\u00e1na Kublaje (1215\u20131294) v \u010c\u00edn\u011b. Na D\u00e1ln\u00e9m v\u00fdchod\u011b se pochoutka ze sn\u011bhu vyr\u00e1b\u011bla ji\u017e v d\u00e1vn\u00fdch dob\u00e1ch p\u0159ed Kristem. Italka se tak\u00e9 zaslou\u017e\u00ed o roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00ed zmrzliny do zaalpsk\u00fdch zem\u00ed. Kdy\u017e se v roce 1533 vd\u00e1v\u00e1 Kate\u0159ina Medicejsk\u00e1 (1519\u20131589) za budouc\u00edho francouzsk\u00e9ho kr\u00e1le Jind\u0159icha II. (1519\u20131559), ital\u0161t\u00ed kucha\u0159i p\u0159ipravuj\u00ed pro svatebn\u00ed hosty ovocn\u00e9 zmrzlinov\u00e9 poho\u0161t\u011bn\u00ed. Francouzsk\u00fd dv\u016fr je u vytr\u017een\u00ed a brzy se novinka \u0161\u00ed\u0159\u00ed i do Anglie.<\/span><\/p>\n

\u201eZmrzlina pro v\u0161echny.\u201c T\u00edmto heslem se \u0159\u00edd\u00ed Ital Francesco Procopio dei Coltelli (1651\u20131727), usazen\u00fd v Pa\u0159\u00ed\u017ei. Ve m\u011bst\u011b nad Seinou mu pat\u0159\u00ed kav\u00e1rna Procope, kter\u00e1 si zakr\u00e1tko d\u00edky produkci zmrzliny z\u00edsk\u00e1v\u00e1 velk\u00fd ohlas. Mezi jej\u00ed \u010dast\u00e9 hosty v pozd\u011bj\u0161\u00edch letech pat\u0159\u00ed proslul\u00ed francouz\u0161t\u00ed filozofov\u00e9 Voltaire (1694\u20131778) \u010di Diderot (1713\u20131784) nebo budouc\u00ed c\u00edsa\u0159 Napoleon Bonaparte (1769\u20131821). V roce 1680 u\u017e se v Pa\u0159\u00ed\u017ei hl\u00e1s\u00ed do zmrzlin\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9ho \u201ecechu\u201c 250 cukr\u00e1\u0159\u016f a kr\u00e1lovsk\u00fd dv\u016fr v\u00e1\u017en\u011b uva\u017euje o tom, \u017ee na produkci ledov\u00e9 pochoutky uval\u00ed dan\u011b. Ne v\u0161ichni jsou ale ze zmrzliny, tehdy chlazen\u00e9 sm\u011bs\u00ed ledku, nad\u0161en\u00ed. Dlouh\u00e1 l\u00e9ta je\u0161t\u011b ve spole\u010dnosti p\u0159etrv\u00e1v\u00e1 n\u00e1zor, \u017ee led lidsk\u00e9mu \u017ealudku prost\u011b nesv\u011bd\u010d\u00ed. Kv\u016fli tomu t\u0159eba n\u011bmeck\u00fd spisovatel Johann Wolfgang Goethe (1749\u20131832) dlouh\u00e1 l\u00e9ta p\u0159ed matkou taj\u00ed svoji slabost pro malinovou zmrzlinu.<\/span><\/p>\n

Ameri\u010dan Harry Bust z Ohia si nech\u00e1v\u00e1 patentovat zmrzlinu na \u0161pejli. A jak u\u017e to tak u geni\u00e1ln\u00edch n\u00e1pad\u016f b\u00fdv\u00e1, i o prvenstv\u00ed v p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b nanuku se vedou spory. Na titul jeho vyn\u00e1lezce si toti\u017e \u010din\u00ed n\u00e1roky tak\u00e9 dal\u0161\u00ed Ameri\u010dan Frank Epperson, v\u00fdrobce limon\u00e1d z kalifornsk\u00e9ho Oaklandu. P\u0159edt\u00edm lid\u00e9 \u010dasto konzumovali zmrzlinu v oplatce (vyn\u00e1lez oplatkov\u00fdch kornout\u016f p\u0159ipad\u00e1 na rok 1902). Podle po\u010dtu lid\u00ed, kte\u0159\u00ed se hl\u00e1s\u00ed k jeho vynalezen\u00ed, by se mohlo zd\u00e1t, \u017ee se oby\u010dejn\u00fd kornout na zmrzlinu \u0159ad\u00ed mezi ty nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00ed po\u010diny lidsk\u00e9 historie. Jen\u017ee ani jeden z t\u011bch, kdo si p\u0159isvojuj\u00ed prvenstv\u00ed, s n\u00e1padem vkl\u00e1dat kope\u010dky chladiv\u00e9ho smetanov\u00e9ho kr\u00e9mu do trycht\u00fd\u0159ku ze sladk\u00e9 oplatky nep\u0159i\u0161el.<\/span><\/p>\n

Oplatky a vafle byly v honosn\u011bj\u0161\u00edch kuchyn\u00edch zn\u00e1m\u00e9 nejm\u00e9n\u011b od konce 18. stolet\u00ed, kdy se prvn\u00ed zm\u00ednky o nich objevuj\u00ed v evropsk\u00fdch kucha\u0159k\u00e1ch, je\u017e doporu\u010dovaly tehdy luxusn\u00ed delikatesu srolovat do tvaru n\u00e1levky nebo trycht\u00fd\u0159e a naplnit ji ochucenou smetanou, kr\u00e9mem nebo zmrzlinou. B\u011bhem 19. stolet\u00ed se ital\u0161t\u00ed p\u0159ist\u011bhovalci vyhnan\u00ed v\u00e1le\u010dn\u00fdmi konflikty z domova a rozeset\u00ed po cel\u00e9 Evrop\u011b postarali o roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00ed zmrzliny mezi b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 m\u011b\u0161\u0165anstvo. Po ulic\u00edch tla\u010dili voz\u00edky a zmrzlinu pod\u00e1vali ve sklen\u011bn\u00fdch n\u00e1dobk\u00e1ch, je\u017e bylo nutn\u00e9 po dojeden\u00ed vr\u00e1tit zmrzlin\u00e1\u0159i. Na konci stolet\u00ed \u00fa\u0159ady v n\u011bkter\u00fdch m\u011bstech takov\u00e9 pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed lah\u016fdky zak\u00e1zaly, proto\u017ee se ob\u00e1valy \u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00ed nemoc\u00ed \u2014 n\u011bkte\u0159\u00ed zmrzlin\u00e1\u0159i sklo neom\u00fdvali tak d\u016fkladn\u011b, jak by bylo z\u00e1hodno.<\/span><\/p>\n

A pr\u00e1v\u011b touto dobou, na p\u0159elomu 19. a 20. stolet\u00ed, se vyrojili vyn\u00e1lezci zmrzlinov\u00e9ho kornoutu, p\u0159esn\u011bji \u0159e\u010deno jde o vyn\u00e1lezce stroj\u016f na jeho v\u00fdrobu. Prvn\u00ed z nich byl pravd\u011bpodobn\u011b p\u0159ist\u011bhovalec do Ameriky Italo Marchiony, kter\u00fd tvrdil, \u017ee sv\u016fj prvn\u00ed kornout vytvo\u0159il a kolem newyorsk\u00e9 Wall Street prod\u00e1val u\u017e v roce 1896; roku 1903 pak z\u00edskal patent na za\u0159\u00edzen\u00ed na jeho produkci. Dal\u0161\u00ed se p\u0159idali roku 1904 na mezin\u00e1rodn\u00edm veletrhu v americk\u00e9m m\u011bst\u011b St. Louis ve st\u00e1t\u011b Missouri, kam p\u0159ijelo na pades\u00e1t zmrzlin\u00e1\u0159\u016f a \u0159ada st\u00e1nka\u0159\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed prod\u00e1vali vafle. Podle jedn\u00e9 z verz\u00ed p\u0159\u00edb\u011bhu o kornoutu prodejce vafl\u00ed Ernest Hamwi pomohl mlad\u00e9mu zmrzlin\u00e1\u0159i Arnoldu Fomachouovi, jemu\u017e do\u0161ly n\u00e1dobky na zmrzlinu, a ze sv\u00fdch sladk\u00fdch oplatek mu vytvo\u0159il kornoutek. Na stejn\u00e9 akci zmrzlinov\u00fd kornout vymysleli nez\u00e1visle na sob\u011b tak\u00e9 Abe Doumar, David Avayou i Charles Menches.<\/span><\/p>\n

A\u0165 u\u017e to bylo jakkoli, v\u0161ichni se pustili do v\u00fdroby kornout\u016f ve velk\u00e9m, zjednodu\u0161ili zp\u016fsob pod\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00ed zmrzliny, a p\u0159isp\u011bli tak k jej\u00edmu masov\u00e9mu roz\u0161\u00ed\u0159en\u00ed.<\/span><\/p>\n

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\nZdroj:<\/strong> Budweiser Geschichten – Josef Schneider, Vladan \u0160\u00edr – vedouc\u00ed magaz\u00ednu P\u00e1tek LN<\/span><\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

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