{"id":123289,"date":"2019-03-09T08:46:46","date_gmt":"2019-03-09T07:46:46","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=123289"},"modified":"2019-03-09T08:46:46","modified_gmt":"2019-03-09T07:46:46","slug":"stara-sumava-o-postnich-jidlech","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=123289","title":{"rendered":"STAR\u00c1 \u0160UMAVA: O postn\u00edch j\u00eddlech"},"content":{"rendered":"

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\u201eAch, ten se povedl!\u201c zavelebil Kr\u00e1l a poc\u00edtil, jak drav\u00fd hlad ho nut\u00ed, aby popadl n\u016f\u017e, ukrojil si patku a zakousl se do n\u00ed. Ale i d\u011bti hrnuly se ke stolu, nebo\u0165 i ony je\u0161t\u011b dnes musily se postit a bez sn\u00eddan\u00ed \u010dekaly na ob\u011bd. Jak v\u0161em zato te\u010f chutnalo! Na m\u00edse kou\u0159ila se z kysel\u00e9ho ml\u00e9ka pol\u00e9vka smetanou zalit\u00e1, tak zdrav\u00e1, \u017ee vyh\u00e1n\u00ed z t\u011bla devateru nemoc, rozeh\u0159eje a rozproud\u00ed krev, tak\u017ee po ka\u017ed\u00e9 l\u017e\u00edci volaj\u00ed v\u0161ecky \u017eilky v t\u011ble: K tomu jsou brambory na loupa\u010dku, kr\u00e1sn\u011b va\u0159en\u00e9, mou\u010dn\u00e9, je\u017e sice dus\u00ed v hrdle, ale pol\u00e9vka je spl\u00e1chne a odplav\u00ed a\u017e do \u017ealudku, kde si pole\u017e\u00ed a zasyt\u00ed i nejv\u011bt\u0161\u00edho jedl\u00edka. A nakonec \u010dek\u00e1 v\u0161ecky vz\u00e1cn\u00e1 pochoutka. Selka, v dobr\u00e9 n\u00e1lad\u011b, \u017ee se j\u00ed bo\u017e\u00ed dar tak vyvedl, aby i ostatn\u00ed pot\u011b\u0161ila a rozradovala, odsko\u010dila od stolu do sklepa, p\u0159inesla na \u010dist\u00e9m tal\u00ed\u0159i zbytek velik\u00e9 hroudy \u010derstv\u00e9ho, jako kan\u00e1rek \u017elut\u00e9ho m\u00e1sla a postavila je k rozpeku.\u00a0<\/em>(Jind\u0159ich \u0160imon Baar: Han\u00fd\u017eka a Mart\u00ednek)<\/strong><\/h6>\n

V obdob\u00ed, kdy se dodr\u017eoval p\u016fst, lid\u00e9 nehladov\u011bli, jak by si mohl n\u011bkdo v dne\u0161n\u00ed spole\u010dnosti myslet. V dne\u0161n\u00ed dob\u011b, kdy \u010dlov\u011bk nev\u00ed nic o k\u0159es\u0165ansk\u00fdch tradic\u00edch je slovo p\u016fst spojen\u00e9 pr\u00e1v\u011b s t\u00edm, \u017ee \u010dlov\u011bk nej\u00ed v\u016fbec. Ale tomu tak nebylo a nen\u00ed. Postn\u00ed j\u00eddla p\u0159i dr\u017een\u00ed p\u016fstu zdr\u017eenlivosti b\u00fdvala jen leh\u010d\u00ed a hlavn\u00ed ingredienc\u00ed byly p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm ryby, \u0161neci nebo \u017e\u00e1by. P\u0159i tomto p\u016fstu jsou tedy zak\u00e1zan\u00e1 masa teplokrevn\u00fdch zv\u00ed\u0159at, ale nezakazuj\u00ed se jin\u00e9 \u017eivo\u010di\u0161n\u00e9 produkty, jako vejce, ml\u00e9ko nebo s\u00fdr. Mohlo se pou\u017e\u00edvat dokonce i s\u00e1dlo. Tento p\u016fst zdr\u017eenlivosti se p\u0159\u00edsn\u011b dodr\u017eoval ka\u017ed\u00fd v\u0161edn\u00ed p\u00e1tek.<\/p>\n

P\u0159i p\u016fstu \u00fajmy mohli v\u011b\u0159\u00edc\u00ed j\u00edst pouze jednou denn\u011b dosyta a b\u00fdvalo to v Popele\u010dn\u00ed st\u0159edu a Velk\u00fd p\u00e1tek. Tehdej\u0161\u00edm lidem nechyb\u011blo ani tak maso \u2013 to toti\u017e nebylo na jejich j\u00eddeln\u00ed\u010dku tak \u010dasto, ale sp\u00ed\u0161e v obdob\u00ed p\u016fstu postr\u00e1dali \u017eivo\u010di\u0161n\u00e9 tuky. S\u00e1dlo se p\u0159id\u00e1valo do ka\u0161e, na va\u0159en\u00ed i pe\u010den\u00ed, a proto hospody\u0148ky nahrazovaly s\u00e1dlo rostlinn\u00fdm olejem, v\u011bt\u0161inou konopn\u00fdm, ln\u011bn\u00fdm nebo makov\u00fdm. Pozd\u011bji se za\u010dalo pou\u017e\u00edvat m\u00e1slo. \u201eKdo jednou denn\u011b j\u00ed, je b\u016fh, dvakr\u00e1t denn\u011b j\u00ed \u010dlov\u011bk, kdo j\u00ed t\u0159ikr\u00e1t, je zv\u00ed\u0159e,\u201c<\/em> zn\u011bla k\u00e1z\u00e1n\u00ed proti ob\u017eerstv\u00ed. Od 18. stolet\u00ed se u\u017e k\u00e1z\u00e1n\u00edm navzdory jedlo pravideln\u011b t\u0159ikr\u00e1t denn\u011b a z ob\u011bda se stalo nejd\u016fle\u017eit\u011bj\u0161\u00ed j\u00eddlo dne.<\/p>\n

Postn\u00ed strava byla velmi jednoduch\u00e1 a chud\u00e1. Pod\u00e1vala se jednou denn\u011b. Maso bylo povolen\u00e9 pouze v ned\u011bli. \u201e\u0158ezn\u00edk\u016fm, kte\u0159\u00ed by v post\u011b prod\u00e1vali maso, hrozilo uv\u011bzn\u011bn\u00ed a pokuta\u201c.<\/em> Byly doby, kdy n\u011bkter\u00e9 oblasti \u0160umavy o Popele\u010dn\u00ed st\u0159ed\u011b, Zelen\u00e9m \u010dtvrtku, Velk\u00e9m p\u00e1tku a B\u00edl\u00e9 sobot\u011b zav\u00edraly \u0159eznictv\u00ed. J\u00eddlo se pod\u00e1valo ve\u010der a za st\u016fl usedala cel\u00e1 rodina. Ve v\u0161edn\u00ed den se p\u0159ev\u00e1\u017en\u011b skl\u00e1dalo ze zeleniny, su\u0161en\u00e9ho ovoce, such\u00e9ho chlebu. Namazan\u00fd chl\u00e9b si mohl dop\u0159\u00e1t pouze star\u00fd nebo nemocn\u00fd \u010dlov\u011bk a mal\u00e9 d\u011bti. V\u011bt\u0161inou se j\u00eddeln\u00ed\u010dek skl\u00e1dal z lu\u0161t\u011bnin, va\u0159ily se zahu\u0161t\u011bn\u00e9 pol\u00e9vky, sma\u017eily se vdolky, kter\u00e9 se nemastily, ale mazaly povidly. Jak u\u017e bylo zm\u00edn\u011bno v\u00fd\u0161e, typick\u00fdm pokrmem byla pu\u010d\u00e1lka, pra\u017eenec nebo pra\u017ema.<\/p>\n

Kdysi se za b\u011b\u017en\u00e9 postn\u00ed j\u00eddlo pova\u017eovala ryba. Proto tak\u00e9 ve 13. stolet\u00ed mnoho kl\u00e1\u0161ter\u016f zakl\u00e1dalo chovn\u00e9 rybn\u00edky. V\u0161e ale ukon\u010dila T\u0159icetilet\u00e1 v\u00e1lka, kter\u00e1 se postarala o \u00fapadek \u010desk\u00e9ho ryb\u00e1\u0159stv\u00ed. Vrchnost na sebe p\u0159evedla ve\u0161ker\u00e1 pr\u00e1va a pytl\u00e1ctv\u00ed se tvrd\u011b trestalo. Od t\u00e9 doby se na stole ryba, jako postn\u00ed j\u00eddlo, objevovala jen v\u00fdjime\u010dn\u011b. Nahradila j\u00ed zelenina, jako zel\u00ed, kter\u00e9 se upravovalo na n\u011bkolik zp\u016fsob\u016f.<\/p>\n

Zvl\u00e1\u0161tn\u00ed m\u00edsto v postn\u00ed dob\u011b zauj\u00edmalo pe\u010divo. Na Kv\u011btnovou ned\u011bli se pekly tzv. pt\u00e1\u010dci, kter\u00e9 dost\u00e1valy d\u011bti a dom\u00e1c\u00ed chasa. Z \u017eitn\u00e9 mouky s p\u0159id\u00e1n\u00edm medu se tvarovaly figurky zv\u00ed\u0159\u00e1tek a lid\u00ed. Jid\u00e1\u0161e se pekly na Zelen\u00fd \u010dtvrtek a Velk\u00fd p\u00e1tek. Neprovdan\u00e9 d\u00edvky pekly chlapc\u016fm rohl\u00edky a z nabobtnan\u00e9ho hrachu ocukrovan\u00e9 a opep\u0159en\u00e9 p\u00e1lence. Ka\u017ed\u00e9 postn\u00ed j\u00eddlo doprov\u00e1zela n\u00e1dhern\u00e1 modlitba: \u201eOt\u010de, v\u0161ichni v tebe doufaj\u00ed a Ty jim d\u00e1v\u00e1\u0161 pokrm a n\u00e1poj, v \u010das p\u0159\u00edhodn\u00fd otev\u00edr\u00e1\u0161 \u0161t\u011bdrou ruku svou a napl\u0148uje\u0161 \u017eivo\u010dichy po\u017eehn\u00e1n\u00edm sv\u00fdm. Pane, smiluj se, Kriste, smiluj se! Pane Bo\u017ee, Ot\u010de Nebesk\u00fd, po\u017eehnej n\u00e1m t\u011bchto dar\u016f a pokrm\u016f, kter\u00e9 v Tv\u00e9 \u0161t\u011bdrosti budeme skrze P\u00e1na na\u0161eho Je\u017e\u00ed\u0161e Krista, Amen.\u201c<\/em><\/p>\n

Pu\u010d\u00e1lka – je staro\u010desk\u00fd pokrm s ko\u0159eny sahaj\u00edc\u00edmi do rann\u00e9ho st\u0159edov\u011bku. Jedl se krom jin\u00e9ho proto aby se \u010dlov\u011bku vyh\u00fdbala zran\u011bn\u00ed a m\u011bl dostatek sil. Uv\u00e1d\u00ed ji ve sv\u00e9 “postile” v 15. stolet\u00ed Mistr Rokycana jako postn\u00ed j\u00eddlo, “kter\u00e9ho v\u0161ak spolu s jin\u00fdmi jed\u00ed lid\u00e9 p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 mnoho, a tak se vlastn\u011b nepost\u00ed”.<\/em> Zm\u00ednky o n\u00ed jsou tak\u00e9 v 16. stolet\u00ed. Pozd\u011bji byl p\u0159ijat k\u0159es\u0165any jako postn\u00ed pokrm pod\u00e1van\u00fd o Velikonoc\u00edch a V\u00e1noc\u00edch. Byl p\u0159ipravov\u00e1n ve slan\u00e9 i sladk\u00e9 verzi. O velikono\u010dn\u00edch sv\u00e1tc\u00edch byl pod\u00e1v\u00e1n hlavn\u011b o prvn\u00ed postn\u00ed ned\u011bli (ze \u0161esti celkem), je\u017e byla naz\u00fdv\u00e1na “pu\u010d\u00e1lka”. N\u00e1zev tohoto dne byl odvozen od n\u00e1zvu pod\u00e1van\u00e9ho postn\u00edho pokrmu, a vyjad\u0159uje jeho p\u0159\u00edpravu, tj. nabobtn\u00e1n\u00ed hrachu. Bobtn\u00e1n\u00ed se lidov\u011b ozna\u010dovalo jako”napu\u010den\u00ed”.<\/p>\n

Pu\u010d\u00e1lka se pod\u00e1vala \u010dasto tak\u00e9 druhou, nebo i \u010dtvrtou ned\u011bli – \u010dernou, pra\u017en\u00ed a dru\u017eebn\u00ed. V podstat\u011b to byl hr\u00e1ch namo\u010den\u00fd den p\u0159edem, potom nasucho opra\u017een\u00fd nebo upe\u010den\u00fd. V pozd\u011bj\u0161\u00ed dob\u011b se namo\u010den\u00fd hr\u00e1ch sma\u017eil na m\u00e1sle, cukroval se a pep\u0159il. Sladk\u00e1 pu\u010d\u00e1lka se m\u00edstn\u011b pod\u00e1vala cukrovan\u00e1 se sko\u0159ic\u00ed nebo pol\u00e9van\u00e1 medem. N\u011bkde ji nab\u00edzeli sm\u00ed\u0161enou s rozinkami, pokroutkami a ko\u0159en\u00edm. Ve staro\u010desk\u00e9 kuchyni se tak\u00e9 krajov\u011b tento pokrm naz\u00fdval “p\u00e1lenec”. Hr\u00e1ch m\u016f\u017eeme dnes v n\u011bkter\u00fdch obchodech koupit ji\u017e nakl\u00ed\u010den\u00fd, ale my to zkus\u00edme ud\u011blat tak, jako na\u0161i p\u0159edkov\u00e9!<\/p>\n

Staro\u010desk\u00fd p\u00e1lenec. \u00bbVe st\u0159edov\u011bku se hr\u00e1ch p\u0159ipraven\u00fd na slano se zbavil “lupin”, byl “vod\u0159en\u00fd”, a zal\u00e9val se tepl\u00fdm s\u00e1dlem, horkou nebo studenou vodou, jindy smetanou nebo v\u00ednem. N\u011bkdy se sma\u017eil na uhl\u00ed, omastil s\u00e1dlem a zalil pol\u00e9vkou. “Vod\u0159en\u00fd” a oloupan\u00fd nebo utlu\u010den\u00fd hr\u00e1ch m\u011bl dobrou pov\u011bst, neloupan\u00fd hor\u0161\u00ed. Ver\u0161\u00edky tzv. “salernsk\u00e9 \u0161koly”, jak je v roce 1587 p\u0159elo\u017eil a publikoval Daniel Adam z Veleslav\u00edna, \u0159\u00edkaj\u00ed: “Hr\u00e1ch u sedl\u00e1k\u016f i p\u00e1n\u016f \/ M\u00e1 svou chv\u00e1lu i hanu: \/ S \u0161upinou \u0161kod\u00ed, nad\u00fdm\u00e1, \/ d\u0159en\u00fd dost dobr\u00fd b\u00fdv\u00e1”.<\/em><\/p>\n

P\u016fst byl v ve st\u0159edov\u011bku i v renesanci natolik p\u0159\u00edsn\u00fd, \u017ee se nesm\u011blo p\u00edt ml\u00e9ko ani j\u00edst m\u00e1slo, s\u00e1dlo a vejce a mastilo se v\u00fdhradn\u011b rostlinn\u00fdm olejem. Hr\u00e1ch ve v\u011bt\u0161in\u011b tehdej\u0161\u00edch \u00faprav vesm\u011bs k postn\u00edm j\u00eddl\u016fm nepat\u0159il. J\u00eddla z hrachu ur\u010den\u00e1 pro p\u016fst se objevuj\u00ed a\u017e u Bavora Rodovsk\u00e9ho z Husti\u0159an na konci 16. stolet\u00ed. Byla ma\u0161t\u011bna mandlov\u00fdm olejem nebo olejem z vla\u0161sk\u00fdch o\u0159ech\u016f. Tak\u00e9 se pekly nap\u0159\u00edklad \u017eebr\u00e1ck\u00e9 buchty. Pe\u010divo v dob\u011b p\u016fstu bylo chud\u00e9, \u00fasporn\u00e9 a proto ho lid\u00e9 naz\u00fdvaly \u017eebr\u00e1ck\u00e1 b\u00edda, chud\u00ed ryt\u00ed\u0159i nebo peka\u0159sk\u00e1 bolest a podobn\u011b.<\/p>\n

Vdolky z oby\u010dejn\u00e9ho kynut\u00e9ho t\u011bsta zad\u011blan\u00e9 z tmav\u00e9 re\u017en\u00e9 mouky upe\u010den\u00e9 v troub\u011b nebo na such\u00e9m pl\u00e1tu se daly sotva polknout, a tak se z nich d\u011blal \u201epa\u0159enec\u201c tak, \u017ee se buchty p\u0159el\u00e9valy hork\u00fdm ml\u00e9kem s trochou medu. Informac\u00ed o spr\u00e1vn\u00e9m post\u011bn\u00ed je v\u0161ude v\u00edc ne\u017e dost, kdy\u017e nebudu m\u00edt vlastn\u00ed inspiraci, vezmu si na pomoc kucha\u0159skou knihu s n\u00e1zvem Kl\u00e1\u0161tern\u00ed kucha\u0159ka aneb oroduj za n\u00e1s dom\u00e1c\u00ed kucha\u0159 (sepsal Angelus Franti\u0161ek Je\u0159\u00e1bek, kucha\u0159 kl\u00e1\u0161tera minorit\u016f v \u010cesk\u00e9m Krumlov\u011b, sepsal 430 recept\u016f. V\u011bru, \u017ee elitn\u00ed kucha\u0159ka pro n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9, ps\u00e1na stru\u010dn\u011b, slovy zbyte\u010dn\u011b nepentlen\u00fdmi, a p\u0159ece jako by v\u016fn\u011b a\u017e ke \u010dten\u00e1\u0159ovu ch\u0159\u00edp\u00ed ze str\u00e1nek stoupala: Vyndej a 2 vidli\u010dkami trhni a omasti. K \u010demu kdo chce podej hork\u00e9 na st\u016fl<\/em>. Mohlo by se zd\u00e1t, \u017ee kl\u00e1\u0161tern\u00ed kucha\u0159ka h\u00fd\u0159\u00ed jen nudnou, prostou a st\u0159\u00eddmou stravou. \u00d3 ne! Recepty jsou pln\u00e9 fantazie, proto\u017ee dob\u0159e najeden\u00fd, odpo\u010dat\u00fd a zdrav\u00fd kn\u011bz l\u00e9pe slou\u017e\u00ed Bohu.<\/p>\n

Eva \u0160af\u00e1\u0159ov\u00e1: “Va\u0159\u00edme z lu\u0161t\u011bnin a z obilovin”, se\u0161ity dom\u00e1c\u00edho hospoda\u0159en\u00ed, sv. 95, str. 12, 1999, \u010desk\u00e1 kuchyn\u011b), \u0160\u00e1rka \u0160kachov\u00e1<\/strong><\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

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  \u201eAch, <\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":154721,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"gallery","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[111],"tags":[],"jetpack_featured_media_url":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/wp-content\/uploads\/2019\/03\/09\/r\u00e1me\u010dek-postn\u00ed-j\u00eddla.jpg","_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/123289"}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcomments&post=123289"}],"version-history":[{"count":2,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/123289\/revisions"}],"predecessor-version":[{"id":154722,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/posts\/123289\/revisions\/154722"}],"wp:featuredmedia":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=\/wp\/v2\/media\/154721"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fmedia&parent=123289"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Fcategories&post=123289"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/index.php?rest_route=%2Fwp%2Fv2%2Ftags&post=123289"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}