{"id":122363,"date":"2020-02-13T09:59:27","date_gmt":"2020-02-13T08:59:27","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=122363"},"modified":"2020-02-13T10:00:00","modified_gmt":"2020-02-13T09:00:00","slug":"stara-sumava-zlatavy-kousek-nebe","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=122363","title":{"rendered":"STAR\u00c1 \u0160UMAVA: Zlatav\u00fd kousek nebe"},"content":{"rendered":"

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Je \u00fa\u017easn\u00e9, kolik pokrm\u016f na\u0161\u00ed kuchyn\u011b m\u00e1 magick\u00fd \u010di ritu\u00e1ln\u00ed p\u0159esah. \u00danor je sv\u00e1tkem lid\u00ed zamilovan\u00fdch do koblih a bo\u017e\u00edch milost\u00ed. Bo\u017e\u00ed milosti jsou tradi\u010dn\u00edm masopustn\u00edm cukrov\u00edm na\u0161ich babi\u010dek a prababi\u010dek. Je to vynikaj\u00edc\u00ed k\u0159ehk\u00e1 sladkost, ke kter\u00e9 t\u011b\u017eko najdeme srovn\u00e1n\u00ed. A tak\u00e9 jen m\u00e1lokdo odol\u00e1 tak lahodn\u00e9mu poku\u0161en\u00ed, jak\u00fdm jsou pr\u00e1v\u011b koblihy.<\/h6>\n

Masopustn\u00ed koblihy, maj\u00ed b\u00fdt lehk\u00e9 jako p\u011bna a k\u0159ehk\u00e9, aby se v \u00fastech rozpl\u00fdvaly. Barvu maj\u00ed m\u00edt zlatavou a kolem b\u00edl\u00fd prou\u017eek.Jsou to koblihy nad\u00fdchan\u00e9 jako v\u00e1nek a kdy\u017e se do nich po\u0159\u00e1dn\u011b zakousnete, m\u016f\u017eete se spolehnout, \u017ee v\u00e1m na tv\u00e1\u0159i skon\u010d\u00ed popra\u0161ek vanilkov\u00e9ho cukru…<\/p>\n

Tu\u010dn\u00fdm, a n\u011bkde vcelku bez okolk\u016f naz\u00fdvan\u00fdm Tlust\u00fdm \u010dtvrtkem vstupuje ob\u017eerstv\u00edm a kratochviln\u00fdmi radov\u00e1nkami nabit\u00e9 masopustn\u00ed obdob\u00ed do mohutn\u00e9ho fin\u00e1le. Te\u010f anebo nikdy! Veselme se, radujme se a h\u0159e\u0161me jako o \u017eivot, proto\u017ee a\u017e muzikanti zav\u0159ou basu do sk\u0159\u00edn\u011b, nastane Velk\u00fd p\u016fst. A\u010dkoliv o Tu\u010dn\u00e9m \u010dtvrtku se n\u00e1m podle tradice m\u00e1 lesknout huba omastkem, abychom nejen na p\u016fst, ale na cel\u00fd rok nabrali s\u00edlu.<\/p>\n

Bo\u017e\u00ed milosti se d\u00e1valy or\u00e1\u010d\u016fm, ne\u017e poprv\u00e9 na ja\u0159e vyjeli na pole. Pat\u0159ily tak\u00e9 k poutn\u00edk\u016fm, kte\u0159\u00ed se vyd\u00e1vali na cestu za posv\u00e1tn\u00fdmi m\u00edsty. D\u00edky tomu, \u017ee jsou v tomhle zubat\u00e9m cukrov\u00ed otvory, se jimi mohl bloud\u00edc\u00ed pod\u00edvat skrz a naj\u00edt spr\u00e1vn\u00fd sm\u011br. Pr\u00fd se tak\u00e9 bo\u017e\u00ed milosti v\u00e1zaly \u010dervenou stu\u017ekou na z\u00e1p\u011bst\u00ed budouc\u00edch novoman\u017eel\u016f, kte\u0159\u00ed spolu se za\u0159\u00edk\u00e1v\u00e1n\u00edm proch\u00e1zeli svatebn\u00edm ob\u0159adem. Ach, jak romantick\u00e9 a \u010darokr\u00e1sn\u00e9!<\/p>\n

Prvn\u00ed zm\u00ednky o specializovan\u00e9m peka\u0159i kobli\u017en\u00edkovi poch\u00e1zej\u00ed ji\u017e ze 14. stolet\u00ed. O n\u011bco mlad\u0161\u00ed jsou zm\u00ednky o \u017een\u00e1ch – kobli\u017enic\u00edch. Ve st\u0159edov\u011bku slovo koblih symbolizovalo masopust – maso nen\u00ed, koblihy j\u00edst nebo t\u00e9\u017e rozma\u0159il\u00e9 hodov\u00e1n\u00ed. Ve st\u0159edov\u011bk\u00fdch recept\u00e1\u0159\u00edch se setk\u00e1me s rozli\u010dn\u00fdmi n\u00e1pln\u011bmi a r\u016fzn\u00fdmi druhy ko\u0159en\u00ed, kter\u00e9 hospody\u0148ky do kobl\u00ed\u017ek\u016f p\u0159id\u00e1valy. Jedn\u00e1 se t\u0159eba o \u0159e\u0159ichu, \u0161alv\u011bj \u010di kdoule.<\/p>\n

Koblihy se sma\u017eily ve vysok\u00e9 vrstv\u011b toho nejlep\u0161\u00edho oleje (n\u011bkdy i bukvicov\u00e9ho). Olej lid\u00e9 nedok\u00e1zali konzervovat, a proto si v zimn\u00edm obdob\u00ed, kdy se lisoval, obl\u00edbili pr\u00e1v\u011b sma\u017een\u00e9 koblihy. I koblihy maj\u00ed svou historii. Ji\u017e sta\u0159\u00ed Egyp\u0165an\u00e9 pr\u00fd b\u011b\u017en\u011b sma\u017eili koblihy. Tak\u00e9 sta\u0159\u00ed \u0154\u00edman\u00e9 naz\u00fdvali podobn\u00e9 kulat\u00e9 pe\u010divo \u201eGlobuli\u201c, co\u017e v p\u0159ekladu znamen\u00e1 kuli\u010dka. Plnili je m\u00e1kem, nebo medem a na koblihy m\u011bli dokonce vlastn\u00ed recept.<\/p>\n

Vznik koblihy je op\u0159eden\u00fd mnoha m\u00fdty. V\u00edde\u0148\u00e1ci p\u0159\u00edsahaj\u00ed, \u017ee toto chutn\u00e9 pe\u010divo vynalezla peka\u0159ka C\u00e4cilie Krapf Mandoletti, kter\u00e1 v roce 1690 ve sv\u00e9m obch\u016fdku u br\u00e1ny Peilertor vyrobila \u201eCilikugeln\u201c, zn\u00e1m\u00e9 po cel\u00e9 V\u00eddni, a v dob\u011b masopustu je plnila zava\u0159eninou. Krom\u011b toho ale existuje i pov\u011bst, \u017ee kdysi jedna ne\u0161\u0165astn\u011b zamilovan\u00e1 kucha\u0159ka omylem vlo\u017eila p\u0159ipraven\u00e9 t\u011bsto do oleje, nam\u00edsto do trouby, a pr\u00e1v\u011b tak vznikly koblihy.<\/p>\n

V ka\u017ed\u00e9m p\u0159\u00edpad\u011b kobliha s charakteristick\u00fdm b\u00edl\u00fdm krou\u017ekem, kraluje masopustu. Velmi \u010dasto se vypr\u00e1v\u00ed p\u0159\u00edb\u011bh jednoho berl\u00ednsk\u00e9ho cukr\u00e1\u0159e. Ten pr\u00fd v roce 1750 pekl prvn\u00ed koblihy voj\u00e1k\u016fm ve v\u00e1lce. Jeliko\u017e s\u00e1m ve v\u00e1lce slou\u017eil a st\u0159\u00edlel z kan\u00f3nu, bitva ho od sv\u00e9ho \u0159emesla neodradila. Naopak, napadlo ho p\u00e9ct sladk\u00e9 pochoutky ve tvaru d\u011blov\u00fdch koul\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Ve t\u0159ic\u00e1t\u00fdch letech se v Rakousku dokonce \u0159e\u0161il spor o tom, kdo sm\u00ed p\u00e9ct masopustn\u00ed koblihy, kter\u00fdm se v Rakousku \u0159\u00edk\u00e1 Faschingskrapfen. Cukr\u00e1\u0159i tvrdili, \u017ee v\u00fdroba masopustn\u00edch koblih pat\u0159\u00ed do cukr\u00e1\u0159sk\u00e9 d\u00edlny a peka\u0159i byli opa\u010dn\u00e9ho n\u00e1zoru ve sv\u016fj prosp\u011bch. Spor obou profes\u00ed se dostal a\u017e p\u0159ed Rakousk\u00fd spolkov\u00fd soudn\u00ed dv\u016fr. Vysok\u00e1 instituce spravedlnosti rozhodla \u0161alamounsky, \u017ee koblihy jsou v\u00fdrobkem mou\u010dn\u00fdm a mohou je proto vyr\u00e1b\u011bt jak cukr\u00e1\u0159i, tak i peka\u0159i. Je pozoruhodn\u00e9, \u017ee a\u010dkoliv jsme coby n\u00e1rod pova\u017eov\u00e1ni bezm\u00e1la za pohany, bo\u017e\u00ed milosti jsou n\u00e1m bl\u00edzk\u00e9. Jen si pod t\u00edm pojmem ka\u017ed\u00fd p\u0159edstavuje n\u011bco jin\u00e9ho.<\/p>\n

I ti, kdo jsou na hony vzd\u00e1leni duchovn\u00edm sf\u00e9r\u00e1m a sp\u00ed\u0161, jak se \u0159\u00edk\u00e1, mysl\u00ed jen na to j\u00eddlo, maj\u00ed na bo\u017e\u00ed milosti recept p\u0159inejmen\u0161\u00edm troj\u00ed a nejm\u00e9n\u011b dvoj\u00ed na jejich fin\u00e1ln\u00ed p\u0159\u00edpravu. N\u011bkde se bo\u017e\u00ed milosti jedly celoro\u010dn\u011b, ale sp\u00ed\u0161 pat\u0159ily mezi j\u00eddla speci\u00e1ln\u00ed, p\u0159edev\u0161\u00edm v\u00e1no\u010dn\u00ed a velikono\u010dn\u00ed. Nezbytnou sou\u010d\u00e1st\u00ed byly r\u016fzn\u00fdch hod\u016f a hlavn\u011b z\u00e1v\u011bru Masopustu. Ka\u017edop\u00e1dn\u011b na ty, kter\u00e9 p\u0159ipravovala babi\u010dka \u010di matka vzpom\u00ednaj\u00ed v\u0161ichni jako na cosi neskute\u010dn\u011b dobr\u00e9ho, ale v tom m\u016f\u017ee hr\u00e1t roli upl\u00fdvaj\u00edc\u00ed \u010das, sentiment i magick\u00fd n\u00e1zev z\u00e1kusku.<\/p>\n

Pro obdob\u00ed masopustu je kynut\u00e9, ve vy\u0161\u0161\u00ed vrstv\u011b tuku sma\u017een\u00e9 pe\u010divo charakteristick\u00e9. Koblihy mohou b\u00fdt pln\u011bn\u00e9 nebo tak\u00e9 nepln\u011bn\u00e9. U n\u00e1s se obvykle pln\u00ed zava\u0159eninami, povidly nebo makov\u00fdmi n\u00e1divkami. Ve st\u0159edov\u011bku je pr\u00fd vyr\u00e1b\u011bli specializovan\u00ed peka\u0159i \u2013 kobli\u017en\u00edci, ale postupem \u010dasu se jejich p\u0159\u00edprava p\u0159esunula do kuchyn\u00ed b\u011b\u017en\u00fdch dom\u00e1cnost\u00ed.<\/p>\n

Koblihy byly tradi\u010dn\u00ed odm\u011bnou pro masopustn\u00ed ma\u0161kary, kter\u00e9 si je pak spolu s jin\u00fdmi pochoutkami odn\u00e1\u0161ely jako v\u00fdslu\u017eku. Ze stejn\u00e9ho t\u011bsta se sma\u017e\u00ed nejr\u016fzn\u011bj\u0161\u00ed tvary \u2013 plet\u00fdnky, uzly, kohout\u00ed h\u0159eb\u00ednky, je\u0161t\u011b zatepla obalovan\u00e9 v cukru.<\/p>\n

Zaj\u00edmav\u00e9 jsou tzv. ta\u017een\u00e9 koblihy, kter\u00e9 se v masopustn\u00edm obdob\u00ed p\u0159ipravuj\u00ed v \u0161umavsk\u00e9 \u010ckyni. Vykynut\u00e9 koblihov\u00e9 t\u011bsto rozd\u011bl\u00ed na kousky, kter\u00e9 vytvaruj\u00ed do koul\u00ed o n\u011bco men\u0161\u00edch ne\u017e tenisov\u00fd m\u00ed\u010dek. Prsty se pak t\u011bsto vytahuje od st\u0159edu a lehce st\u00e1\u010d\u00ed. Vytv\u00e1\u0159\u00ed se tak kruh s v\u00e1le\u010dkem, jeho\u017e st\u0159edn\u00ed \u010d\u00e1st z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1 tenk\u00e1. Pak se sma\u017e\u00ed a obaluj\u00ed v mou\u010dkov\u00e9m cukru s vanilkou. \u010cky\u0148sk\u00e9 ta\u017een\u00e9 koblihy samoz\u0159ejm\u011b nejsou pln\u011bn\u00e9. Koblihy byly a jsou obl\u00edben\u00e9 nejen po Evrop\u011b, ale tak\u00e9 v Americe, kam p\u0159ipluly spolu s n\u011bmeck\u00fdmi imigranty. Velmi popul\u00e1rn\u00ed jsou tu tzv. doughnuts \u2013 koblihy s d\u00edrou uprost\u0159ed, jim\u017e d\u00e1vaj\u00ed p\u0159\u00edchu\u0165 r\u016fzn\u00e9 polevy.<\/p>\n

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Zdroj: Historie va\u0159en\u00ed, Eva V\u0161et\u00ed\u010dkov\u00e1 – ABC Zahrady a Bydlen\u00ed<\/strong><\/p>\n

P\u0159ipravuje: Miroslav K\u016eS ANDRES<\/strong><\/p>\n

Foto: archiv autora<\/strong><\/p>\n

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