{"id":11140,"date":"2015-03-11T07:22:42","date_gmt":"2015-03-11T06:22:42","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=11140"},"modified":"2015-03-11T07:43:45","modified_gmt":"2015-03-11T06:43:45","slug":"ochutnavka-jihovychodni-asie-cesta-do-neznama-2-cast-pise-jan-stas","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/zakrasnejsivimperk.cz\/?p=11140","title":{"rendered":"OCHUTN\u00c1VKA JIHOV\u00ddCHODN\u00cd ASIE: Cesta do nezn\u00e1ma, 2.\u010d\u00e1st (p\u00ed\u0161e Jan Sta\u0161)"},"content":{"rendered":"

Abych byl up\u0159\u00edmn\u00fd, Bangkok m\u011b tolik nezaujal. Jedin\u00e9, co stoj\u00ed za zm\u00ednku, je obrovsk\u00e9 n\u00e1kupn\u00ed st\u0159edisko MBK Center, kde se\u017eenete opravdu v\u0161e, d\u00e1le pak pouli\u010dn\u00ed trhy, Bayioke Sky Tower, s\u00a0kr\u00e1sn\u00fdm v\u00fdhledem na m\u011bsto a nakonec p\u00e1r chr\u00e1m\u016f, jako nap\u0159\u00edklad Wat Arun, Wat Pho, nejstar\u0161\u00ed z\u00a0chr\u00e1m\u016f v\u00a0Bangkoku, ve kter\u00e9m se nach\u00e1z\u00ed obrovsk\u00e1, 46 metr\u016f dlouh\u00e1 a 15 metr\u016f vysok\u00e1 socha le\u017e\u00edc\u00edho Budhy, zn\u00e1zor\u0148uj\u00edc\u00ed um\u00edraj\u00edc\u00edho Budhu v\u00a0pozici, kdy dos\u00e1hl nirvany.<\/p>\n

Po n\u00e1v\u0161t\u011bv\u011b v\u0161ech zm\u00edn\u011bn\u00edch m\u00edst tedy kupujeme j\u00edzdenku do druh\u00e9 t\u0159\u00eddy vlaku do Surat Thani, dopravn\u00edho uzlu jihu Thajska. Je to vcelku \u0161treka. P\u0159es 700 kilometr\u016f za 608 Baht\u016f (450 K\u010d).\u00a0 Kvalita druh\u00e9 t\u0159\u00eddy je a\u017e ne\u010dekan\u011b p\u0159ekvapiv\u00e1. Klimatizace, m\u011bkk\u00e9 seda\u010dky a dokonce i de\u010dka a ob\u010derstven\u00ed. Oba se ukl\u00e1d\u00e1me do tvrd\u00e9ho sp\u00e1nku.<\/p>\n

Probouz\u00ed mne slunce. Vojta je je\u0161t\u011b v\u00a0hlubok\u00e9m sp\u00e1nku a tak si u\u017e\u00edv\u00e1m rann\u00ed pohledy oknem vlaku. Nekone\u010dn\u00e1 d\u017eungle lemuj\u00edc\u00ed koleje po obou stran\u00e1ch, st\u0159\u00edd\u00e1na mal\u00fdmi vesni\u010dkami farm\u00e1\u0159\u016f, pe\u010duj\u00edc\u00ed o kokosov\u00e9 palmy a sv\u00e9 buvoly, kte\u0159\u00ed si jen tak nehybn\u011b post\u00e1vaj\u00ed kolem kolej\u00ed, mi umo\u017e\u0148uje poprv\u00e9 nahl\u00e9dnout do t\u011b\u017ek\u00e9ho \u017eivota m\u00edstn\u00edch obyvatel t\u011bchto rur\u00e1ln\u00edch oblast\u00ed. \u017d\u00e1dn\u00e9 traktory \u010di jin\u00e1 mechanizace. Jen lidsk\u00e1 a zv\u00ed\u0159ec\u00ed s\u00edla.<\/p>\n

V\u00a0hlav\u011b m\u00e1m jak\u00fdsi pocit uspokojen\u00ed a na tv\u00e1\u0159i neust\u00e1l\u00fd \u00fasm\u011bv. Je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed p\u00e1r lety by m\u011b nenapadlo, \u017ee se mi v\u00a0m\u00e9m \u017eivot\u011b naskytne mo\u017enost v\u0161echno tohle vid\u011bt. A to je teprve za\u010d\u00e1tek. \u00a0Z\u00a0hlubok\u00fdch my\u0161lenek m\u011b vyru\u0161\u00ed pr\u00e1v\u011b probuzen\u00fd Vojta a bav\u00edme se o tom, jak jsme r\u00e1di, \u017ee jsme tuhle cestu uskute\u010dnili.<\/p>\n

Asi s\u00a0t\u0159\u00edhodinov\u00fdm zpo\u017ed\u011bn\u00edm p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme do Surat Thani, odkud m\u00e1me pokra\u010dovat sm\u011br Krabi, zn\u00e1m\u00e9ho letoviska turist\u016f sm\u011b\u0159uj\u00edc\u00edch za odpo\u010dinkem a kr\u00e1sn\u00fdm mo\u0159em. Ihned po v\u00fdstupu z\u00a0vlaku k\u00a0n\u00e1m p\u0159ib\u00edh\u00e1 n\u011bkolik p\u00e1n\u016f, zji\u0161\u0165uj\u00edc\u00edch, zda-li u\u017e m\u00e1me \u201etikets\u201c aneb j\u00edzdenky. Kdy\u017e jim je ukazujeme, p\u016flka smutn\u011b odch\u00e1z\u00ed a dal\u0161\u00ed se n\u00e1s sna\u017e\u00ed pozvat alespo\u0148 k\u00a0nim do pouli\u010dn\u00edho bistra na n\u011bco k\u00a0sn\u011bdku. Je tady, krom opod\u00e1l ho\u0159\u00edc\u00ed hroudy odpadk\u016f, c\u00edtit i touha m\u00edstn\u00edch dostat z\u00a0Evropan\u016f alespo\u0148 n\u011bjak\u00e9 pen\u00edze. S\u00a0radost\u00ed tedy nastupujeme do p\u0159istaven\u00e9ho autobusu a opou\u0161t\u00edme tohle podivn\u00e9 m\u011bsto. Jsme trochu nesv\u00ed, proto\u017ee n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ibli\u017en\u011b 200 kilometr\u016f do (n\u00e1mi pl\u00e1novan\u00e9) destinace Krabi, kde u\u017e jsme se v\u00a0tenhle \u010das m\u011bli hodinu v\u00e1let n\u011bkde u mo\u0159e. M\u00edsto toho n\u00e1s \u010dek\u00e1 je\u0161t\u011b p\u00e1r hodin v\u00a0\u201eautobuse\u201c. Na konci tohoto nap\u016fl zreznut\u00e9ho prost\u0159edku vid\u00edme dva b\u011blochy a tak si strategicky p\u0159ised\u00e1v\u00e1me k\u00a0nim. P\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edm, kdo z\u00a0n\u00e1s m\u00e1 z\u00a0p\u0159\u00edtomnosti b\u011bloch\u016f v\u011bt\u0161\u00ed radost. Jestli my nebo oni. N\u00e1sledn\u011b zji\u0161\u0165ujeme, \u017ee oni. Jejich cesta byla toti\u017e je\u0161t\u011b o n\u011bco zaj\u00edmav\u011bj\u0161\u00ed. Jsou to mlad\u00ed holan\u010fan\u00e9, co si naivn\u011b zaplatili ka\u017ed\u00fd n\u011bco kolem 1200 Baht\u016f v\u00a0agentu\u0159e v\u00a0Bangkoku (kdo v\u00ed, jestli to nebyla pr\u00e1v\u011b ta, kterou jsme nav\u0161t\u00edvili i my), s\u00a0t\u00edm, \u017ee je bezpe\u010dn\u011b a za p\u00e1r hodin doprav\u00ed do Ao Nhangu (asi 20 km za Krabi). Av\u0161ak realita byla pon\u011bkud jin\u00e1. Na cest\u011b jsou u\u017e neuv\u011b\u0159iteln\u00fdch 25 hodin, v\u016fbec nev\u00ed, kudy to vlastn\u011b jeli a nav\u00edc museli kdesi v\u00a0d\u017eungli upl\u00e1cet nemalou \u010d\u00e1stkou \u0159idi\u010de, kter\u00fd jim \u0159ekl, \u017ee je tam jinak nech\u00e1 a nevr\u00e1t\u00ed jim batohy. Vypadaj\u00ed dost vy\u0159\u00edzen\u011b, ale d\u00edky n\u00e1m se asi c\u00edt\u00ed u\u017e pon\u011bkud bezpe\u010dn\u011bji a po chv\u00edli u\u017e za\u010d\u00ednaj\u00ed vypr\u00e1v\u011bt jejich \u00fasp\u011bchy v\u00a0pr\u00e1v\u011b prob\u00edhaj\u00edc\u00edm mistrovstv\u00ed sv\u011bta ve fotbale. Inu, agentur\u00e1m prost\u011b nev\u011b\u0159it.<\/p>\n

Po vcelku p\u0159\u00edjemn\u00e9 \u00a0\u010dty\u0159hodinov\u00e9 cest\u011b p\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme kone\u010dn\u011b do Krabi, kde se od kluk\u016f dozv\u00edd\u00e1me, \u017ee tenhle bus jede a\u017e do Ao Nhangu, kde je to pr\u00fd je\u0161t\u011b o n\u011bco lep\u0161\u00ed a nen\u00ed tam tolik turist\u016f.\u00a0 Nech\u00e1v\u00e1me se tedy p\u0159esv\u011bd\u010dit a m\u011bn\u00edme pl\u00e1ny. Jedeme do Ao Nhangu. Teda, alespo\u0148 si to mysl\u00edme. V\u00a0Krabi toti\u017e z\u00a0autobusu v\u0161ichni vystupuj\u00ed a z\u016fst\u00e1v\u00e1me jen my-b\u011blo\u0161i a \u0159idi\u010d. Za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 n\u00e1m to b\u00fdt trochu divn\u00e9, a proto se jdeme zeptat \u0159idi\u010de, kter\u00fd v\u0161ak anglicky nemluv\u00ed a st\u00e1le jen opakuje: \u201eFajf minit, fajf minit\u201c. Dobr\u00e1. V\u011b\u0159\u00edme mu. Co n\u00e1m taky zb\u00fdv\u00e1. Kluci maj\u00ed na sv\u00fdch cest\u00e1ch asi opravdovou sm\u016flu, proto\u017ee kousek za m\u011bstem autobus odbo\u010duje kamsi do d\u017eungle. Ve vzduchu je c\u00edtit nervozita. Sna\u017e\u00edm se situaci trochu odleh\u010dit vt\u00edpkem, \u017ee n\u00e1s zavezou do d\u017eungle, okradou a zn\u00e1siln\u00ed. Av\u0161ak tento pokus n\u00e1ladu p\u0159\u00edli\u0161 nezved\u00e1. P\u0159ij\u00ed\u017ed\u00edme na podivn\u00e9 parkovi\u0161t\u011b, kde stoj\u00ed jen p\u00e1r star\u00fdch, nejsp\u00ed\u0161 nepoj\u00edzdn\u00fdch autobus\u016f. M\u00edsto jak z\u00a0n\u011bjak\u00e9ho hororu. \u0158idi\u010d kone\u010dn\u011b zastavuje, otev\u00edr\u00e1 dve\u0159e a my nejist\u011b vystupujeme. M\u00e1me radost, kdy\u017e vid\u00edme p\u0159ib\u00edhaj\u00edc\u00edho chl\u00e1pka s\u00a0\u00fasm\u011bvem na tv\u00e1\u0159i, z\u00e1rove\u0148 v\u0161ak c\u00edt\u00edme, \u017ee je n\u011bco \u0161patn\u011b. Nejsp\u00ed\u0161 na n\u00e1s cht\u011bj\u00ed zase n\u011bco vyd\u011blat. Vojta u\u017e to nevydr\u017eel a za\u010dal k\u0159i\u010det: \u201eWhy are we here? We want to go to bus station\u201c! Mu\u017e ale spou\u0161t\u00ed dlouh\u00fd monolog plynulou angli\u010dtinou o tom, \u017ee je tohle \u00fapln\u011b norm\u00e1ln\u00ed postup, a \u017ee n\u00e1s \u010dty\u0159i vezme do Ao Nhangu za 400 BHT, \u017ee autobus tam sice jezd\u00ed za 50 na osobu, ale jede d\u00e9le a hor\u0161\u00ed cestou. Chceme se na to vyka\u0161lat a j\u00edt zp\u011bt do m\u011bsta na autobus, ale v\u00a0tu r\u00e1nu, jako na p\u0159ivol\u00e1nou, za\u010d\u00edn\u00e1 obrovsk\u00fd lij\u00e1k, co\u017e nahr\u00e1v\u00e1 do karet obchodn\u00edkovi.\u00a0 Souhlas\u00edme tedy, nased\u00e1me do pick-upu a ji\u017e nep\u0159\u00edjemn\u011b unaveni se t\u011b\u0161\u00edme do postel\u00ed. Je\u0161t\u011b p\u0159ed span\u00edm se domlouv\u00e1me, \u017ee je na \u010dase vyrazit n\u011bkam do p\u0159\u00edrody. Oba souhlas\u00edme a ukl\u00e1d\u00e1me se, po n\u00e1ro\u010dn\u00e9m dni, \u201edo pe\u0159in\u201c.<\/p>\n

Nem\u016f\u017eu v\u016fbec usnout. St\u00e1le si prom\u00edt\u00e1m to, \u017ee jsem opravdu tady a p\u0159em\u00fd\u0161l\u00edm, co v\u0161echno tady asi za\u017eiju. T\u011b\u0161\u00edm se na z\u00edt\u0159ej\u0161\u00ed v\u00fdlet do d\u017eungle. Poprv\u00e9 uvid\u00edm plan\u011b rostouc\u00ed ban\u00e1novn\u00edk, bambusov\u00e9 lesy a ni\u010d\u00edm neru\u0161enou p\u0159\u00edrodu v\u00a0pln\u00e9 kr\u00e1se. O tom, ale zase p\u0159\u00ed\u0161t\u011b. O\u010di se mi toti\u017e u\u017e zav\u00edraj\u00ed, \u00fanava je siln\u011bj\u0161\u00ed a tak se nech\u00e1v\u00e1m un\u00e1\u0161et do \u0159\u00ed\u0161e sn\u016f.<\/p>\n

(pokra\u010dov\u00e1n\u00ed)<\/strong><\/p>\n